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Small Copper Spade Connectors that will handle 10 to 12GA speaker wire for La Scala Crossover


edzu1234

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These are COPPER...

 

http://www.douglasconnection.com/Furez-SP8-WP30NP-Bare-Copper-Spade-Speaker-Connectors-Pair-FZSP8WP30NP.htm

 

These have torx screws for holding the wire...

http://www.douglasconnection.com/Furez-SP8-SB50NP-Bare-Copper-Spade-Speaker-Connectors-Pair-FZSP8SB50NP.htm

 

 

 

They have they with a much higher price as well.

 

 

Bruce

Edited by Marvel
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Those Douglas connections are quite nice.

 

Here's 2 more from Parts Express - just depends on what you want.

 

Compression

http://www.parts-express.com/compression-style-spade-terminals-2-pair--091-3624

 

Dual set screw with carbon fiber ferrule

http://www.parts-express.com/1-4-to-3-8-spade-terminal-with-dual-set-screws-and-carbon-fiber-and-brass-shell-2-pair--091-3616

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You wrote: Does any know where I can buy Small Copper Spade Connectors that will handle 10 to 12GA speaker wire for La Scala Crossovers.  Thank you in advance.

 

The best I've found for #10 wire and the Klipsch barrier terminals are the 3M BS-33-8-P. While they are a crimp-on style, I just solder the wire to the terminal without crimping it. You can order the BS-33-8 which is uninsulated and use heatshrink (for appearance) if you are soldering it. The 3M terminals are copper base metal with a bright-tin coating. Mouser Electronics has been my go-to source for many years.

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Specialty/BS-33-8-P/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jermgtdJWRly%2fklyjIGBpEj30%3d

 

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Specialty/BS-33-8/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvlX3nhDDO4APO3uE60z4QokrlD21fAn%252bg%3d

 

Lee

 

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this be the one that fits #6 screws that the crossovers use:

https://www.parts-express.com/gold-spade-lug-crimp-terminal-8-awg-6-2-pair--095-670

Takes all the way up to 8 AWG wire so if your putting 12 or 14 into it you may have to fold it over to make it thicker.

Edited by babadono
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Please remember that Klipsch needs #6 lugs, a lot of links are to #8 lugs.

 

Dennis, you are correct--I had forgotten the terminal cited was for a #8 stud. It will fit the Klipsch terminal block just fine width-wise. The Klipsch barrier block measures about 0.331" between the insulating ears.  

 

I did a little research on the Mouser site and came up with some choices for a terminal that will handle up to #10 wire and is suitable for a #6 stud.

 

http://www.mouser.com/Connectors/Terminals/_/N-5g5u?P=1yzmo5bZ1yz0vctZ1z0xbyiZ1z0xbx2Z1yqs5ojZ1z0xbvs

 

Note there are different styles of terminals, locking fork, block fork, spade tongue, ring, etc. All listed will fit the #6 screw just fine--it's just a matter of personal preference. You'll get maximum metal-to-metal contact with the ring terminal, but you'll have to remove the screw each time you want to change connections. I like the locking fork type because it won't fall off the barrier block if the screw is loose. 

 

edzu1234, you can click on the Data Sheet for each terminal to find out what the base metal is; some are copper while others are brass. All are generally bright-tin plated to keep oxidation to a minimum.

 

Lee

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  • 2 weeks later...

If PWK were here he would be handing out BS buttons. When I asked him why 1985 Khorns had monster cable for wiring, he gave me a roll the eyes type look of ridiculousness and said: "It's the marketing department. The woofer section draws most of the power and the voice coil is only 30 gauge wire."

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If PWK were here he would be handing out BS buttons. When I asked him why 1985 Khorns had monster cable for wiring, he gave me a roll the eyes type look of ridiculousness and said: "It's the marketing department. The woofer section draws most of the power and the voice coil is only 30 gauge wire."

 The distance the wire has to go has importance here. So does the job it is performing. A voicecoil made with monster cable is not practical.

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   :emotion-21: on the TE Connectivity (Tyco), and Panduit.   Thomas and Betts is another excellent manufacture.   Much preferred to the parts express branded products mentioned.  Whatever you decide, a proper crimp is paramount.

 

Not going to argue quality, but the PE parts I called out are sure purdy.

https://www.parts-ex...2-pair--095-670

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The distance the wire has to go has importance here. So does the job it is performing. A voicecoil made with monster cable is not practical.

 

You forgot speaker efficiency and current draw. If you fuse the speakers, have you ever looked at the resistance of a fuse? Discussing wire in this industry is a quasi-religious experience and has nothing to do with the science. More money is wasted there than any other part of the reproduction chain. End of story for me.

Edited by ClaudeJ1
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The distance the wire has to go has importance here. So does the job it is performing. A voicecoil made with monster cable is not practical.

 

You forgot speaker efficiency and current draw. If you fuse the speakers, have you ever looked at the resistance of a fuse? Discussing wire in this industry is a quasi-religious experience and has nothing to do with the science. More money is wasted there than any other part of the reproduction chain. End of story for me.

 

Yep. I was assuming the current draw would be the constant in this equation then length is the variable and the result is how much voltage drop is acceptable. The rest of the hype of one speaker wire over another is floobydust.

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When I made a cord for my welder, I just went to the auto parts store and they had larger sized copper terminals like you are seeking.  I soldered these onto the wire as it made termination easier (obviously not required though).  I bet they have all sorts of options at Autozone or O'Reilly's.

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