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Acoustics &reinforcement


olomba

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Hi klipsch fans!,today Iam posting pictures of my cf3 after it was reinforced with 1x2" solid wood ribs glued vertically inside and out.also,if you want better acoustics,remove all the traditional speaker foam and replace it with wool batting.it is much better than dacron.for these,select a recording with deep bass and start adding batting till you hear the bass sounding dull,then remove some and listen again.it is a tedious process since you have to remove the woofers each time but you will know its worth the effort when you are ready to enjoy music.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi klipsch fans!,today Iam posting pictures of my cf3 after it was reinforced with 1x2" solid wood ribs glued vertically inside and out.also,if you want better acoustics,remove all the traditional speaker foam and replace it with wool batting.it is much better than dacron.for these,select a recording with deep bass and start adding batting till you hear the bass sounding dull,then remove some and listen again.it is a tedious process since you have to remove the woofers each time but you will know its worth the effort when you are ready to enjoy music.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

7cdb6fd1fd95ffca82f3059c925dd537.jpg0510d301937a5960eebe4e76bb844362.jpg44723b8b1996ed731ed4c67ae49f7bed.jpg

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

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Hi klipsch fans!,today Iam posting pictures of my cf3 after it was reinforced with 1x2" solid wood ribs glued vertically inside and out.also,if you want better acoustics,remove all the traditional speaker foam and replace it with wool batting.it is much better than dacron.for these,select a recording with deep bass and start adding batting till you hear the bass sounding dull,then remove some and listen again.it is a tedious process since you have to remove the woofers each time but you will know its worth the effort when you are ready to enjoy music.

Thanks a lot for posting. I'll not opine about wool vs. dacron but instead invite everyone to form their own conclusion (in the hopes that they test multiple materials).

One thing I've done in the past is to solder the speaker leads to the terminals and then lift out the woofer with live program material so I can mess with lining/stuffing through the woofer hole. For a couple hours at a time. And multiple times. Alternatively, when you're (one is) doing DIY stuff, you can leave the baffle for last gluing.

Rope caulk is better than a bead of RTV for that (don't ask--you'll be sanding RTV for ever).

Put the speaker on its back.

The balance is between "openness" of soundbodies (think cello or piano) and "tightness" of percussion. You have to flip program material to extremes and find the "best compromise" (tm?).

The super-low-Q "tight-tight" drums are packed with R19 (etc), the most echo-ey soundbodies are empty. All that _If_ you guess right on your tuning.

In some (?) 35+ years of playing diy-speaker-genius-pretender, I've missed every single box tuning at least a little bit. There's only one tool--restriction of ports--available at that stage. And it costs efficiency.

The moral of the story is to almost never tune for "flat" (it'll boom in-room). EBS is the way. TL's. Slow-rollers. Then "tight" isn't anything but a number. And a goofy grin with the right material. Giggling, if you get lucky with sweet wood.

Bracing matters, and it matters so much more than most people know. Stiffness matters. Great plywood matters. Once you hear great plywood against (?) p-board or mdf, you can't "un-hear" it. Yes, I know these bald-assertions are likely to get me well-lit-up (especially in a place where the ante is 5000 posts). They're also my experiences. If you have a driver larger than 5", it's _always_ worth it to buy the best plywood you can find. Marine-ouch--the word marine is painful--but if it's the best, it's worth it to your project. Look-up the stiffnesses (moduli). It's not even close.

I've learned a lot from various people around here that post theirs, so I'm cutting-open a vein to try to pay some amount back to this wonderful place.

Can't really remember exactly when, but I once attended a demo at my local Audio Society meeting a good 20-ago. Mike Dzurko remarked that night that the single biggest thing a DIY guy could do was make a crazy-great cabinet.

I've learned that I agree.

A manufacturer cannot possibly "get paid" for making a great great cabinet.

I've seen people say 8" spans. Personally, I'll use other materials (if weight matters) besides great-great-ply, but I also will brace them every 5".

I think it was some time spend on OB stuff that got me to ask the questions (and pay for the experiments).

There's a _lot_ of good stuff to be had w/o much work or expense.

Thanks for the time and the audience. Let the beatings begin.

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