fuzzydog Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 The problem is with the longer runs. For example a 4,000 watt amp running 14 gauge at 35' loses something like 400 watts which is 10%. Short runs doesn't really matter much. I went ahead and bought a spool of 12 gauge monoprice wire so i can use it for internal wiring and for the amp to sub run. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 12 g is good. It will help to control the woofer a little better. Are you getting an I Nuke or something with DSP/PEQ? A lot of subs roll off around 30-35 Hz and a little DSP/PEQ will bring the 20 Hz to 35 Hz back up. I have always had to boost my low end but, I have always been in extremely large rooms, lol. Sealed subs roll faster than vented except at tuning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted April 1, 2016 Author Share Posted April 1, 2016 Are you getting an I Nuke or something with DSP/PEQ? That's my plan, but I haven't figured out yet if i need the 3000DSP or 6000DSP. I'd like the flexibility to add a second DIY sealed sub later. Does the 3000 have enough juice to handle two subs or do i need to step up to the 6000? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paducah Home Theater Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) I've seen a guy run four 18's with a single 3000 but it was ported. Sealed at 10-15 hz is a different ball game. It would do it, but for another $120 you wouldn't have to worry about it plus would have more overhead. Let's be honest here too, once you get the second one, eventually you're going to want two more. Would be easier to not have to buy another amp at that point. Not sure what impedance you got though. Edited April 1, 2016 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 1, 2016 Share Posted April 1, 2016 (edited) Get the I Nuke 6000 DSP. This will let you run one on each channel. Wire the driver in series to 4 ohms. Your diver is 1200 RMS and will peak over 2000 watts. A single channel of the I Nuke is good for a bit over 2000 watts at 4 ohms. The I Nuke 3000 DSP would have to be done in bridge mode for one sub. Just stick will ported subs, no real reason to mix unless you already have them. I have both types but, I am using the Full Marty ported subs for music. The bass is just as nice as the sealed subs. This fat vs thin bass and slow vs fast is really just a matter of phase and time alignment. Now if you are into pike organ music this may be a reason to go with multiple sealed subs or a low tune big a$$ ported sub, lol. Edited April 1, 2016 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 Just stick will ported subs, no real reason to mix unless you already have them. I have both types but, I am using the Full Marty ported subs for music. The bass is just as nice as the sealed subs. This fat vs thin bass and slow vs fast is really just a matter of phase and time alignment. Now if you are into pike organ music this may be a reason to go with multiple sealed subs or a low tune big a$$ ported sub, lol. I almost went with one of the new marty cube flat packs from diy sound group, but from what i've read, that box wouldn't be large enough for the SI DS4 18. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted April 4, 2016 Author Share Posted April 4, 2016 (edited) As a side note, the flat pack I ordered from DIY sound group arrived on Saturday, but no sign of the SI driver yet. The FedEx tracking number i received when i ordered it shows that Sundown Audio hasn't shipped it yet, they only created a shipping label. I e-mailed Sundown this morning to see what the holdup is. Update: Sundown wrote me back to say that it should be shipped soon. They're apparently unboxing and testing the drivers before they get shipped out. Edited April 4, 2016 by FuzzyDog Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 The driver has arrived... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 (edited) Great new to hear you have the driver in hand! This should be a lot of fun. I smell a new build thread starting. Edited April 6, 2016 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted April 6, 2016 Author Share Posted April 6, 2016 What kind of glue do you guys recommend? I've read good things about Titebond-III for mdf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 PL Premium. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 I've used Gorilla and Elmers Extra strength also for one of the sub and also for room Tx's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 So it's taken me a loooooong time, but I've finally gotten the box built. Most of the time since my last post in this thread has been spent plotting how to veneer the box. The DIYsoundgroup sealed subwoofer boxes come with a round over on the baffle so I've had to cut a new square edged baffle. This involved buying a router and a sheet of MDF from Lowes. Since I was in the baffle building business I went ahead and created an extra that I've added to the box for three layers. I'm still planning to recess the driver once I've got the veneer applied to the baffle. The veneer will be cherry to match my speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Great thread....long lag between posts I wondered how I missed it. Why is it so fun thinking through options like these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted June 16, 2016 Author Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thought I'd add a pic that shows the difference between the DIYsoundgroup MDF (bottom layer) and the stuff you get from Lowes (top two layers). The DIYsoundgroup material is a much finer and denser grade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Not a fan of Lowes or Home Depot MDF. I normally buy from a cabinet maker shop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Thought I'd add a pic that shows the difference between the DIYsoundgroup MDF (bottom layer) and the stuff you get from Lowes (top two layers). The DIYsoundgroup material is a much finer and denser grade. image.jpeg LOL. Something just occured to me. MDF = medium density fiberboard It's like drinks at fast food places. Medium does not have any clear definition. At Hardees, medium is six and a half gallons I think. There may be some ANSI standards for MDF, but I'd bet those Lowes' boards don't have the stickers on them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Great thread....long lag between posts I wondered how I missed it. Why is it so fun thinking through options like these? That happens to me all the time. I miss good threads and then see them months later. I think Carl and Chad are conspiring against us. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoboKlipsch Posted June 16, 2016 Share Posted June 16, 2016 Just stick will ported subs, no real reason to mix unless you already have them. I have both types but, I am using the Full Marty ported subs for music. The bass is just as nice as the sealed subs. This fat vs thin bass and slow vs fast is really just a matter of phase and time alignment. Now if you are into pike organ music this may be a reason to go with multiple sealed subs or a low tune big a$$ ported sub, lol. I almost went with one of the new marty cube flat packs from diy sound group, but from what i've read, that box wouldn't be large enough for the SI DS4 18. I spent about a month researching every possible option...driver, box size, sealed, ported, and demo'd some also so that I had a reference point. You already have a plan but for anybody else looking into this, I'd like to try and address that. Everything I am writing here is not my research it is from the designers themselves talking about the builds: For the DIYSG ported 15, the Dayton 15" RO driver is basically the one and only that works in the smaller box. SI used to have a 15 but don't anymore. (4cft) For the DIYSG ported 18, they recommend at this point basically only the Dayton 18" RO, because its characteristics fit well with the smaller box (5.4cft) For true DIY, in a sealed format, basically the Dayton RO18, Ultimax or the DS4 will all work at around 4cft and will be even better if you can build a bit bigger. For true DIY in a ported format, the Dayton 15 RO works well in the micro size, the Dayton 18RO works well in the cube size. For true DIY in a ported format, the Dayton Ulitmax or SI DS4 are recommended as the size increases to at least the Johnny and definitely for the mini and martys. At the realistic limits of a build (say 20cft or 25cft), the DS4 MIGHT eek out a bit of something over the Ultimax, but as a very new driver it is not as well tested yet as the Ultimax and has not been tested yet by Ricci at data-bass.com That distills a LOT of reading and research to better understand what works and what doesn't. Modelling in WIN Isd is actually a lot of fun, and as long as you have a version that shows the excursion, you can quickly see why certain drivers work better in certain size boxes. Hopefully you don't consider this a thread-crap (!). I just hope I can save someone else a lot of research should they be looking into the same ideas. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fuzzydog Posted July 26, 2016 Author Share Posted July 26, 2016 Get the I Nuke 6000 DSP. This will let you run one on each channel. Wire the driver in series to 4 ohms. Your diver is 1200 RMS and will peak over 2000 watts. A single channel of the I Nuke is good for a bit over 2000 watts at 4 ohms. The I Nuke 3000 DSP would have to be done in bridge mode for one sub. @derrickdj1, is the DSP version still needed if you have an advanced receiver with sub EQ? Although the Behringer EP4000 doesnt have DSP, i'd read somewhere that the EP4000 rates closer to advertised power than the Inuke 6000. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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