Heritage Driver Screws

[tagger]

What is the original screw size for the Heritage drivers and horns (K77, K400, K700, K33, K22, etc)?  I gather they are pan head sheet metal screws, but search results show both 1 inch #8 and 1 inch #10.  Anyone know for sure?

Edited December 28, 2015 by tagger

[tagger]

I'm filling an empty Heresy cabinet with drivers, and thus far it seems #8 1/2-inch for the horns and #8 1-inch for the woofer fit the existing holes perfectly.

[longdrive03]

I just redid a set of Heresys and sourced at HD sheet metal screws.  1" for woofer #10 I think, 1" for mid #8 I think, and 3/4" #8 or 6 I think.  The mid horn flange is thicker than the tweeeter flange so be careful on the length.  I didn't want a screw coming through the new veneer!!

 

i used new screws on the back on the 1984 set since the originals weren't very long and I added foam seal tape and front to rear brace.  Good luck

[Marvel]

The t-nuts/bolts for the K-33 are 10-24. I bought 10-32 to use in mine.

 

Bruce

[HDBRbuilder]

Heresys whose components were installed to the INSIDE of the motor-board didn't have t-nuts, unless there was an industrial motor-board involved....and then only the woofers required machine screws.  The industrial motorboard has the metal grille on it for the woofer hole.  The industrial  motorboard itself is screwed to the speaker motorboard from the inside, using wood screws...BUT it has t-nuts in it which are used to mount the woofer itself to the motorboard.  Keep in mind that the industrial motorboard is sealed to the front, and back in the day, a bead of silicone caulk was laid down around the edge of the face of the metal grill, in a circle that had a circumference slightly larger than the woofer hole in the speaker front (so that it looked more aesthetically pleasing), then set aside to set-up overnight.  It acted as a plyable seal for the woofer industrial motorboard when the motorboard was installed in the cabinet.  After the industrial motorboard was installed, then the woofer was installed TO that industrial motorboard...always use that order for installation and reverse it for removal.

 

The screws used to mount components inside Heresys and Cornwalls with screwed on back panels back in the day are round-head Philips WOOD SCREWS, not sheet metal screws.  If the wood screws are removed, you MAY need to go to a larger diameter shank, IF the hole will NOT grip the screw enough anymore...OR just take some wood glue and a wooden match-stick and glue the match-stick into the hole and let it set up, break off the part sticking out of the hole, shave it flush with a scraper and VOILA, the screw will grip in that hole again!  NEVER over-torque the wood screws, that is what causes them to strip out the wood in the pilot holes.  The more often you remove a screwed-on back to a Heresy or Cornwall, the more likely it will be that the screw holes in the glue blocks will get stripped-out.  If you have that issue, just go to over-sized diameter screw shanks .  ALWAYS have the speaker face-down on carpet or something like that when installing the backs...and be sure to apply pressure to the back panel in the area you are installing the screw as you screw it in, so that it will less likely strip out the wood on the glue blocks.  Choosing to use a "squashable" rear seal medium makes doing this even MORE important, in order to NOT strip the wood out of the holes.

[twk123]

40 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:

Heresys whose components were installed to the INSIDE of the motor-board didn't have t-nuts, unless there was an industrial motor-board involved....and then only the woofers required machine screws.  The industrial motorboard has the metal grille on it for the woofer hole.  The industrial  motorboard itself is screwed to the speaker motorboard from the inside, using wood screws...BUT it has t-nuts in it which are used to mount the woofer itself to the motorboard.  Keep in mind that the industrial motorboard is sealed to the front, and back in the day, a bead of silicone caulk was laid down around the edge of the face of the metal grill, in a circle that had a circumference slightly larger than the woofer hole in the speaker front (so that it looked more aesthetically pleasing), then set aside to set-up overnight.  It acted as a plyable seal for the woofer industrial motorboard when the motorboard was installed in the cabinet.  After the industrial motorboard was installed, then the woofer was installed TO that industrial motorboard...always use that order for installation and reverse it for removal.

 

The screws used to mount components inside Heresys and Cornwalls with screwed on back panels back in the day are round-head Philips WOOD SCREWS, not sheet metal screws.  If the wood screws are removed, you MAY need to go to a larger diameter shank, IF the hole will NOT grip the screw enough anymore...OR just take some wood glue and a wooden match-stick and glue the match-stick into the hole and let it set up, break off the part sticking out of the hole, shave it flush with a scraper and VOILA, the screw will grip in that hole again!  NEVER over-torque the wood screws, that is what causes them to strip out the wood in the pilot holes.  The more often you remove a screwed-on back to a Heresy or Cornwall, the more likely it will be that the screw holes in the glue blocks will get stripped-out.  If you have that issue, just go to over-sized diameter screw shanks .  ALWAYS have the speaker face-down on carpet or something like that when installing the backs...and be sure to apply pressure to the back panel in the area you are installing the screw as you screw it in, so that it will less likely strip out the wood on the glue blocks.  Choosing to use a "squashable" rear seal medium makes doing this even MORE important, in order to NOT strip the wood out of the holes.

This is truly expert advice. On thing I would add is when putting the back on your Heresy (especially if you are using weather stripping as a gasket like I did) tighten the screws in a star pattern similar to doing lug nuts on your car and only tighten each 80% at a time first so the gasket seats evenly. For example do one corner then the other and keep doing the opposite ends. Once everything is 80% tight and the gasket is squished evenly you can hand tighten the rest using the same pattern.

[HDBRbuilder]

14 minutes ago, twk123 said:

This is truly expert advice. One thing I would add is when putting the back on your Heresy (especially if you are using weather stripping as a gasket like I did) tighten the screws in a star pattern similar to doing lug nuts on your car and only tighten each 80% at a time first so the gasket seats evenly. For example do one corner then the other and keep doing the opposite ends. Once everything is 80% tight and the gasket is squished evenly you can hand tighten the rest using the same pattern.

EXACTLY!  and this also applies to installing the backs, whether a squashable medium seal is used, or not.  Keep in mind you are not installing a door on a submarine that has to stay watertight at depths...you are just eliminating air leaks on a speaker cabinet that may make a SOUND from those air leaks or from the wooden parts vibrating against each other!  The Heresy is sealed for ONE REASON ONLY...to limit the excursion of a short-throw cone on the woofer so that it can handle more power without destroying itself by slamming itself to death...or tearing its paper surround.  When the cone moves forward, it creates a bit of vacuum, limiting that forward movement, and when it moves rearward, it creates an overpressure, which limits the movement rearward....which the sealing of the heresy cabinet provides for.  This has the effect of a stiffening of the cone, without the detrimental effect of losing its pliability.  And that is a GOOD thing!  So judicious attention to HOW TIGHT you make things is called for, but overdoing it will create more problems in the long run.