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Another F-20 Build


Pete H

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Another easy way to deal with the PL ooze out is to just let it seep out normally then wait right at 1 hour.  Take a chisel and run it along the joint by hand and it will peel right off.  One hour seems to be the sweet spot for clean up with that stuff (depending on temp).  Clean up any sooner and it's messy.  Leave it on much longer and it gets hard to remove.

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Just as a little break prior to the finish, let me just list a few mistakes that were made.

1.  T nuts were installed on the wrong side of the motor board.

2.  I thought my Kreg pocket jig said 3/4 when I set it, but after drilling out every panel, I realized that I set it for 3/8.  Notice the red x's on the panels that indicate the screw holes not to use after I drilled all new ones.

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3.  Trying to save a buck and use up some PL that had a tip cut that was way too big as you can see in this pic, which then required lots of the next pic.

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4.  Tried to offset panels slightly for the installation of edge banding so it would all be perfectly flush. (Stupid idea as I know what shooting for perfect will generally get you)  Just didn't work out the way I envisioned it.

5.  I should have gone with my instinct regarding the 14" diameter for the driver cut out and tightened that up, as well as not going to a 1/4" T-nut which just added to the issue.  I ended up gluing the nuts in with PL and after it was dry I added gorilla glue to be certain, but I will find a better way next time.

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6.  I managed to put a couple of screw tips through the wood even after marking the holes I shouldn't use.  This one was the worst.

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Where was I..................................more work that needed to be done.  Box of caulk, nuts and screws, what else could you need?

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I just used the small cordless saw and cut the access panel out using the blind plunge cut technique.  Works for me!

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Access panel needs supports, I believe they are 1 1/2" rips of 18mm BB glued with titebond 3 and secured with narrow crown staples.

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Prep for paint that will be applied to the inside of the horn exit.

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I did fill in all the pocket holes on the inside.  I have no clue if that was necessary or not, but for 10 minutes, what the hell.

I also installed some internal braces, again, not knowing if they really matter in the end or not, but, in too deep now.

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Need a way to hook up the driver so...............

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Need a couple of wires attached.

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Another easy way to deal with the PL ooze out is to just let it seep out normally then wait right at 1 hour.  Take a chisel and run it along the joint by hand and it will peel right off.  One hour seems to be the sweet spot for clean up with that stuff (depending on temp).  Clean up any sooner and it's messy.  Leave it on much longer and it gets hard to remove.

That's great advice as long as you don't miss that window of opportunity and with everything I had going on, I just wanted to glue screw and remove on the exterior and didn't care at all about the interior, with the exception of the opening at the mouth of the horn, but you are correct about the window.

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I ended up gluing the nuts in with PL and after it was dry

 

Make sure your threads are clean before you get much further.  Run a bolt in and out all of them.  Did you dry fit the driver yet?

 

Short answer....................................my threads are clean, but my nuts are dirty. :(

 

Did that and I'll have to find the pics, but I used the screws and the driver to actually set the T nuts so I set up my driver, cone up, set the motor board on top with the jig to hold the end of the motor board level, had the t-nuts partially tapped in and then applied the PL and torqued the screws and washers from the backside of the driver to pull the t-nuts into the correct position and such the t-nuts completely in.  When that was done, taking the bolts out made sure the threads were clear and then when the PL was set, I attached the driver again and then applied gorilla glue.  If all that makes sense.  This is the way I will install T nuts in the future because it really worked well.

Edited by Pete H
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Time for the top.

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The top (this will actually be the bottom when installed at Toms house) will have many fasteners because it won't matter, you won't see it.  Here's what's being used.

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Top panel installed and clamped.

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Edited by Pete H
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