majas Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Hello, Iam a little confuse. I want to biam my 160M speakers. Do I need to connect the assign-amp (rear left/right) from the Marantz SR5010 to the top or the botton plugs on my speaker? I saw on the manual and It seems I need to connect them to the bottom and the FL/FR to the top of the connectors. Any advise and help please. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The History Kid Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I usually would recommend if you're biwiring (unless they have a second amp, it's biwiring - IMO) or just wiring in general to stagger the connection. In my set up I connect the positive to the top and the negative to the bottom. It honestly doesn't matter, but this way I don't have to worry about something coming loose and toasting any of the components. Bottom line: doesn't matter which set you use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Doesn't hurt to try it out as it's just time and wire. But it's a big waste. Bi-among from an Avr through a passive network does absolutely nothing. And sometimes depending on how many channels you are running you can ever hinder performance. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fjd Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 (edited) While the specifications in the owner’s manual appears to indicate that you have seven identical, discrete power amplifier/devices that equally distribute power throughout the system to each channel, I would follow the manual since we do not have any insight into what actually happens internally circuit-wise (or exactly what "enabling back EMF" means) when changing the “Amp Assign” settings for a bi-amp application. Just remember to remove the terminal connecting bar on the RP-160M speakers when using the bi-amp application settings. Page excerpts for reference purposes from the Marantz SR-5010 owner's manual below. . Edited January 28, 2016 by Fjd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fjd Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I know you did not ask; however, since there are a couple of reactions to bi-amping without much additional insight, here are a few general thoughts regarding bi-amping. Back in the late 60s and through the 70s the way I viewed bi-amping was as a type of “work around” when many of the affordable amplifiers were small and had low power output while many of the affordable speakers were generally inefficient. In other words, the bi-amp setup was a way to give you more power per channel to drive these inefficient speakers. Given Klipsch speaker efficiency, the issue of insufficient power is not a typical problem. To Scrappy’s point, the reactive elements in the passive crossover (e.g., capacitors, resistors, etc.) remain in the speaker and there wasn’t really much difference in sound, if any at all. At some point in time it was discovered that a bi-amp set up with an electronic crossover before the amplifier could have a greater impact on sound quality by removing the reactive elements in the passive crossover with the amplifier now connecting directly to the transducers/drivers in the speaker. In general, crossover parts are a lot better today and the RP-160M are fairly efficient; therefore, I also would not expect much, if any, of a difference or change in sound. Given the above, when using electronic crossovers before the amplifier, a person needs to understand the risks and how those risks are typically mitigated in order to not end up with a bunch of blown out drivers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattSER Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I usually would recommend if you're biwiring (unless they have a second amp, it's biwiring - IMO) or just wiring in general to stagger the connection. In my set up I connect the positive to the top and the negative to the bottom. It honestly doesn't matter, but this way I don't have to worry about something coming loose and toasting any of the components. Bottom line: doesn't matter which set you use. What do you mean by this? Sounds like bridging? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 He is just referring to his preference on how he hooks his wires. One in the top other in the bottom. Jumpers remain in doesn't matter how they are oriented since they are jumpered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 I would leave the jumpers on and just connect the speaker wire to the top or bottom post. Passive bi-wiring is not going to make a huge difference.. All the extra energy will be dissipated as heat in the passive XO mainly on the bass driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The History Kid Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 He is just referring to his preference on how he hooks his wires. One in the top other in the bottom. Jumpers remain in doesn't matter how they are oriented since they are jumpered. Correct. The only reason that I stagger them is because I'd rather have the speaker stop working if a top or bottom post comes loose, rather than burning up the components inside. I've heard some not so pleasant stories. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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