Tachikaze Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 The Minions, six black kittens found the passive radiator an awesome scratching post. Recommendations on repair of need to replace? Minions Radiator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 Ebay may sell them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teaman Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 That sucks. Cute kitties. Ebay usually has some passives listed. Usually go for $30 or less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 19, 2016 Share Posted February 19, 2016 (edited) just patch it up with some white wood glue and some paper if required it will work as well as when it was new. The passive only needs to be air tight to function. Dents and scratches are meaningless to its working function. You might want to make an inexpensive investment for a set of wire driver screens to prevent further problems. Simply Speakers have nice ones for very little. Fast and easy to install. Edited February 20, 2016 by moray james Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 it is always a good plan to uses as little material as is necessary to affect a repair. That said don't fret about weight you won't and you don't need to add much material to make the repair. When I want to re tune a passive lower to obtain deeper bass response I add weight to lower the resonant point of the cone's total weight on the twin suspensions of the passive (surround and spider). I have used 2.5 ounces to do this so don't think you are going to mess things up you won't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old_Klipsch_Guy Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 (edited) If you need to get the dust cap off to work on it more easily, touch that adhesive with a needle. If it is soft and springy, it is probably a rubber cement and you can just squirt a little acetone-based nail polish remover on it and gently pry it off. When the repair is done, just use rubber tire cement to put it back on. If the adhesive seems to be very black and hard as a rock, it is probably a cyanoacrylate (I don't think they used that on dustcaps usually, although they did on one in particular) and the acetone trick will take much, much longer, probably won't work well and will take a bunch of acetone. So, if it's CA, I wouldn't recommend it. For the paper mache' work on the main radiator, you might just use good old Elmers white glue. The damage is pretty extensive. It's probably going to be pretty difficult to make it pretty without adding "too much" weight. But, just using the paper mache' will not add enough weight to change the resonant frequency by any great amount... certainly not outside production tolerances. Edited February 20, 2016 by Old_Klipsch_Guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 20, 2016 Share Posted February 20, 2016 don't touch the dust cap that is simply making work for the sake of work and it serves no purpose. Patch the hole(s) with layers of coffee filter paper just build it up from the inside use a thin layer of white glue. If you have any old dead speakers around you can use the cone material from those. It does not have to look pretty to work perfectly well and if you want you can spray a layer of black paint on the cone when it is patched and dry then install your protective grills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old_Klipsch_Guy Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 don't touch the dust cap that is simply making work for the sake of work and it serves no purpose. True... unless the torn paper/cloth buzzes... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Gee, I don't know about patching. If it were a tear, yeah, patching. I clicked on the image of the passive. You can see daylight (or green and white carpet) through a hole that might be two square inches in area. WMcD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 the paper got ripped out so replace it. this is not a tweeter. This is a dead weight (cone) riding upon a pair of suspensions it is nothing more, so long as it is air tight when repaired it will work more than well enough to do the job. Maybe not much to look at but hey it is on the back side of the cabinet so who really cares? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tachikaze Posted February 24, 2016 Author Share Posted February 24, 2016 I searcheded the ebays, and nothing available. I do scale model warships that we place in the water and shoot at each other. The holes are patched with silkspan and laquer until full combat repairs can be done after said battles. Using the silk span and white glue worked very well. The silkspan is light and I diluted the glue a tad to get better penetration into the cones and all seems to hold well. On another note, one of the tweeter drivers dieded. I ordered a new one from http://www.critesspeakers.com/ and per his recommendation, ordered two as he related that there was going to be a big difference in sound. DAMN! there is a hugh difference, the new titanium ones are a lot brighter than the old ones, going to have to adjust my amplifier output, but love the expanded upper range. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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