bop29291 Posted February 27, 2016 Author Share Posted February 27, 2016 I hear you. The other issue is storing an out of use 83 in a climate controlled area isn't exactly easy to do. Went to Joann Fabrics yesterday, and this seemed to be the closest to anything I've read about. I'll do a little more research on material. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efzauner Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 DaLite makes a 133" snap on screen that is AP. http://www.projectorscreenstore.com/Projector-Screens/Da-Lite-52x122-Da-Snap-97503-HC-Cinema-Perf-Fabric-Cinemascope-Format-Projector-Screen-11722.html. It would work well in this application. Hey all you sub guys. What would be the placement of subs in this room? He hasn't asked for this, but you know it's coming. One more thing, I would move the right rear speaker to the back corner and use your AVR to increase the gain some. That way you have a way in to the theater seating. almost 2Gs for some fabric and aluminum...something very wrong here...compare that to 2G of HT receiver, or speakers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scrappydue Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 You have to forgive me but I love my RC-64. More importantly having sizable rear surrounds has allowed me to here and feel sounds from there I've never experienced before. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk hey you ain't hurting my feelings. I'm just trying to tell you direction to go if you want max performance from what you have. No biggie. 64 is a descent center. I loved mine when I had it. In fact I think I had three different ones at different times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClintonH Posted February 27, 2016 Share Posted February 27, 2016 I hear you. The other issue is storing an out of use 83 in a climate controlled area isn't exactly easy to do. Went to Joann Fabrics yesterday, and this seemed to be the closest to anything I've read about. I'll do a little more research on material. ne Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk This is the recommended spandex for the US I believe, they don't seem to have light grey though. The Spandex world Milliskin, Fabricland Active wear and Seymour XD were found to be very close in acoustic transparency any difference would be negligible. http://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) Ok so as I begin to finalize my screen size, I took some tape and marked the edges of a few movies and came away confused. I'm wanting to build 2.35:1 screen, that without having to physically move my projector will also allow me to view a 16:9 movie (obviously smaller). I'm not worried about black bars on the sides. Is there standard settings in my equipment I should be using to set this up correctly to be sure the image displayed is what the dvd says it is? Words like "enhanced" make me not trust what I'm seeing. EDIT: It appears my issue is th the 16:9 is overlapping top and bottom of my marked 2.35 and when I adjust the zoom to rein it in, it's not shrinking from the top edge. Looks like I'd have to tilt the projector down. Please tell me that's not something I have to live with. Edited March 2, 2016 by bop29291 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) The RF 7's mesh so well with the RC 64, I find no need for a center tower, especially since everything is not hidden behind a screen. I will live with the ignorance since it is bliss, lol. Edited March 2, 2016 by derrickdj1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 (edited) EDIT: It appears my issue is th the 16:9 is overlapping top and bottom of my marked 2.35 and when I adjust the zoom to rein it in, it's not shrinking from the top edge. Looks like I'd have to tilt the projector down. Please tell me that's not something I have to live with. Some projectors have a menu choice called "Position" which gives you the option of Vertical or Horizontal movement. Try aiming and zooming the projector so a 1.85:1 (or 1.78:1 i.e.,16:9, if you must) image fits, filling the screen from top to bottom, but not overlapping. Save this position, then select 2.35:1(save this also). Most of the time, it should zoom dramatically out to fill the entire 2.35 screen and fit well. If not, use the Vertical Position function, get it right, then save the result. There is some variation due to 35 mm "scope" existing not only in 2.35:1 shape, but also in 2.39:1, and with some 'scope from 1953 to about 1955 being 2.55:1. No problem, the "Position" can be adjusted slightly. A similar slight variation exists between modern theatrical "narrow screen" (1.85:1) and the ill-begotten so called "wide screen" used with most TV programs (16:9, i.e., 1.78:1) which we know is really even narrower screen than almost all theatrical formats. You may want to create some other "Position" and zoom settings for the 70 mm formats. The usual one is 2.20:1, which should be adjusted to fill the screen from top to bottom, in keeping with the professional, theatrical "common height" practice. These will show a very slight black bar to the left and right of the screen, much smaller than the ones with 1.85 or 1.78. A few 70 mm films are 2.76:1, which will show a small black bar above and below, but fill the screen from left to right. IMO, they all look good, compared to a screen which is 1.78, which gets them all wrong except for that one that should never have been created. The movie industry warned the TV industry about this, but the TV people found that 1.78 was easiest with cathode ray tube TV screens, which are now a thing of the past. The Mad Men took it from there. If these electronic adjustments are not enough, you may need to use a mechanical adjustment, one time only. There may be a locking lever for that. This takes a while, leading to swearing or laughing, depending on your personality. Your projector should be slightly higher than the vertical center of your screen. If you can't do that, there may be a Keystone adjustment to prevent your image from being shaped like the keystone of an arch, or a keystone upside down. Keystoning was so common in the early days of the movies, due to the projector being above the highest balcony, and the screen way down on a stage also used for stage productions, Mack Sennet's Keystone studio was named after it, with the image of a keystone as its logo .... or maybe it was the other way around, the Keystone being a very important part of an arch, and Sennet no doubt regarded his new studio as being very important. In any case, the Keystone Kops got named after it. Edited March 3, 2016 by garyrc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 8, 2016 Author Share Posted March 8, 2016 Thanks for the information Gary. I've done more experimentation and it seems like based on my room size, desired speaker location and my viewing preferences that the 2.35:1 can only be a max of 120" wide (not diagonal). When I put in a 16:9 movie and reduce the image size, I'm still way too high, overshooting the "screen". So I'm guessing what I need is one of those super high-end lenses (not happening) or to build a sliding mount. I have read and searched the few other posts out there but haven't seen anything that describes determining the proper slope over distance to achieve desired results. Are there "fixed" numbers that can be plugged into a known formula. I'm NO GOOD at math, but I do have a friend that's great with AutoCad and is willing to help me design something respectable. Any formulas? Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted March 8, 2016 Share Posted March 8, 2016 (edited) Is the 16:9 image just too high, or is it too large, spilling over the screen both top and bottom? Did you find both an electronic "position" control (especially "vertical position") on your remote control and a mechanical control on the projector itself?? My projector (Panasonic) has both. For initial set-up, we had to use both -- and after that, just the electronic. The mechanical control adjusts the equivalent of projector tilt, without actually tilting the projector -- it does it optically, The mechanical control has enough range to put the picture below the screen, all the way up to putting it on the ceiling (with extreme keystoning)! Start with the 16:9, establish settings, then move to the 2.35:1, then establish settings for that shape. For 2.35:1, 120" wide (not diagonal) may be plenty wide, especially if you move your seating a little closer. It's the size on your retinas that counts, not the actual screen size. I'm not sure what you are referring to when you speak of a formula, but there are projector throw & size charts out there (in your manual, or on the internet). Edited March 8, 2016 by garyrc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 My HT1075 has no memory or electronic zoom. It does have a manual vertical lens shift which helps. One thing not helping here is that I'm doing my testing flat on the wall with blackout cloth and my new screen is going to be AT and pulled off the wall about 15" making the final projected image a bit smaller. I guess I should just go ahead and make my screen and worry about aligning image later. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 9, 2016 Author Share Posted March 9, 2016 (edited) My HT1075 has no memory or electronic zoom. It does have a manual vertical lens shift which helps. One thing not helping here is that I'm doing my testing flat on the wall with blackout cloth and my new screen is going to be AT and pulled off the wall about 15" making the final projected image a bit smaller. I guess I should just go ahead and make my screen and worry about aligning image later. Progress today. Yes you can make Dados' with a compound miter saw. Rudimentary however. Got the idea of using scissor hinges on AT screen sides to give vertical adjustment along with minimal fore and aft adjustment in lieu of a sliding projector cart. Anyone done this? Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Edited March 10, 2016 by bop29291 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Well Joann's white fabric over Joann's black looks great to me. I have never held any of the other popular Spandex options but it looks a lot better than my BOC. Seems much brighter and an improved contrast. Once I get the projector and screen fully aligned I should be really happy. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 Ok so my screen is done but clearly should have put more thought into the mounting. I need the screen off the wall about 14" so planned to copy this method and even bought these same brackets. But now I'm feeling the need to incorporate some type of adjustment to help with screen alignment. Anyone have a simple idea? My frame Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) Ok so my screen is done but clearly should have put more thought into the mounting. I need the screen off the wall about 14" so planned to copy this method and even bought these same brackets. But now I'm feeling the need to incorporate some type of adjustment to help with screen alignment. Anyone have a simple idea? My frame Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk How do you mean screen alignment? IMO, height and centering on the wall is all you do. The alignment is done with the projector. Is there something I'm not thinking of? Edited March 19, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 Guess I just am being paranoid but thought if I could slot a hole here or there when mounting, if something wasn't quite straight I'd have another option. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 19, 2016 Share Posted March 19, 2016 (edited) You just have to make it right the first time. Measure where the screen would be if it were on the back wall so you can decide where to mount the shelf hangers. A laser level for the actual top shelf hanger mounting. After mounting the top shelf, use a plumb bob to mark the bottoms so they are exactly under tops. To make sure the frame is a perfect rectangle measure corners to corner both ways. They should be equal. Edited March 19, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 19, 2016 Author Share Posted March 19, 2016 Great tips with laser and plumb bob, I'll use for sure. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted March 29, 2016 Author Share Posted March 29, 2016 (edited) Well I was off today and had a chance to work on the screen mounting a little. I was still deciding just how to configure the brackets when I stated so as a result I'll be running to Lowe's once again for more bolts and brackets. Still have fine tuning to do as well as fine something other than my old set of Heresy's to hold the 64. The AT screen is great so far... Thanks Clinton for the encouragement to do it. Sent from my Z970 using Tapatalk Edited March 29, 2016 by bop29291 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bop29291 Posted February 23, 2019 Author Share Posted February 23, 2019 This is still in progress. Since I'm selling the Heresys, I had to build an actual shelf for the 64. Much better now.Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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