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attic renovation; Klipschorn placement


KHORNlegacy

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3769_001.pdf3769_001.pdfGreetings:

 

We are currently renovating our attic and will be moving the main system upstairs. I'm attaching a drawing (reasonably drawn to scale) that shows the speaker placement.

 

Short wall is approx. 15-16 feet. Long walls are approx. 50 feet long. 9 foot cathedral ceilings. There are no other interior walls (just a giant, long triangle, more or less). As you can see, on the adjacent long wall on the left size, we need to install an interior door so we can access our seasonal storage.

 

Will the presence of the door impact the sound substantially? e.g. a break in the sheetrock so close to the outer edge of the speaker. Or is there a way to minimize the impact? We really don't have anywhere else we can put the door.

 

Thanks!

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I see no problems - you're at least a foot away from the door.  Just keep the door shut while listening. 

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attachicon.gif3769_001.pdfattachicon.gif3769_001.pdfGreetings:

 

We are currently renovating our attic and will be moving the main system upstairs. I'm attaching a drawing (reasonably drawn to scale) that shows the speaker placement.

 

Short wall is approx. 15-16 feet. Long walls are approx. 50 feet long. 9 foot cathedral ceilings. There are no other interior walls (just a giant, long triangle, more or less). As you can see, on the adjacent long wall on the left size, we need to install an interior door so we can access our seasonal storage.

 

Will the presence of the door impact the sound substantially? e.g. a break in the sheetrock so close to the outer edge of the speaker. Or is there a way to minimize the impact? We really don't have anywhere else we can put the door.

 

Thanks!

 

We had a situation like that with Khorns up until about 12 years ago.  The door must be kept from rattling.  A nice strong dead bolt that presses firmly against the strike plate would probably keep it from moving (some would use a neoprene gasket).  A solid core door might be better than a hollow core.  It might be better if the door could be made flush with the wall, instead of recessed.  We did all these things in our old room, and it worked well for 17 years, then we moved.  We had solid response down to the lower limit of our test disc (31.5 Hz).

Edited by garyrc
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This is great info. I was also thinking about a semi-custom door, rather than a prehung door w/ normal cased trim. Since I won't need to access our seasonal storage that often, I'm going to attempt to craft something that is flush, and that is secure all the way around (like a large access door for an attic kneewall), w/ weatherstripping, etc.

 

Thanks for the input

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I always recommend some additional bracing in the stud wall behind the Khorns - just a couple blocks will suffice - you want that part of your horn to be as stiff as possible. Might want to put some weather stripping in that door not only to keep attic air out, but to stop any vibration or rattling. 

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I just slide some waferboard between the bass bin and the walls and use the weight of the loudspeaker to hold everything in place.  Works great down to below 20 Hz.  If you think it's not stiff enough, add another piece of waferboard and staple them together in a few places using a heavy duty staple gun.  A can of suitably colored spray paint does the rest.

 

Chris

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