KHORNlegacy Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 3769_001.pdf3769_001.pdfGreetings: We are currently renovating our attic and will be moving the main system upstairs. I'm attaching a drawing (reasonably drawn to scale) that shows the speaker placement. Short wall is approx. 15-16 feet. Long walls are approx. 50 feet long. 9 foot cathedral ceilings. There are no other interior walls (just a giant, long triangle, more or less). As you can see, on the adjacent long wall on the left size, we need to install an interior door so we can access our seasonal storage. Will the presence of the door impact the sound substantially? e.g. a break in the sheetrock so close to the outer edge of the speaker. Or is there a way to minimize the impact? We really don't have anywhere else we can put the door. Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 I see no problems - you're at least a foot away from the door. Just keep the door shut while listening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Did that answer all your questions? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHORNlegacy Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 Thanks for the quick reply. Yes, I feel better now about the layout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyrc Posted March 6, 2016 Share Posted March 6, 2016 (edited) 3769_001.pdf3769_001.pdfGreetings: We are currently renovating our attic and will be moving the main system upstairs. I'm attaching a drawing (reasonably drawn to scale) that shows the speaker placement. Short wall is approx. 15-16 feet. Long walls are approx. 50 feet long. 9 foot cathedral ceilings. There are no other interior walls (just a giant, long triangle, more or less). As you can see, on the adjacent long wall on the left size, we need to install an interior door so we can access our seasonal storage. Will the presence of the door impact the sound substantially? e.g. a break in the sheetrock so close to the outer edge of the speaker. Or is there a way to minimize the impact? We really don't have anywhere else we can put the door. Thanks! We had a situation like that with Khorns up until about 12 years ago. The door must be kept from rattling. A nice strong dead bolt that presses firmly against the strike plate would probably keep it from moving (some would use a neoprene gasket). A solid core door might be better than a hollow core. It might be better if the door could be made flush with the wall, instead of recessed. We did all these things in our old room, and it worked well for 17 years, then we moved. We had solid response down to the lower limit of our test disc (31.5 Hz). Edited March 6, 2016 by garyrc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHORNlegacy Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 This is great info. I was also thinking about a semi-custom door, rather than a prehung door w/ normal cased trim. Since I won't need to access our seasonal storage that often, I'm going to attempt to craft something that is flush, and that is secure all the way around (like a large access door for an attic kneewall), w/ weatherstripping, etc. Thanks for the input 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I always recommend some additional bracing in the stud wall behind the Khorns - just a couple blocks will suffice - you want that part of your horn to be as stiff as possible. Might want to put some weather stripping in that door not only to keep attic air out, but to stop any vibration or rattling. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 7, 2016 Share Posted March 7, 2016 I just slide some waferboard between the bass bin and the walls and use the weight of the loudspeaker to hold everything in place. Works great down to below 20 Hz. If you think it's not stiff enough, add another piece of waferboard and staple them together in a few places using a heavy duty staple gun. A can of suitably colored spray paint does the rest. Chris 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHORNlegacy Posted March 7, 2016 Author Share Posted March 7, 2016 All of the framing is still exposed, so installing some blocking in the corners will be simple. I hadn't thought of additional ways to stiffen the corners (e.g. OSB under the drywall); that wouldn't be difficult to add. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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