colterphoto1 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 A friend just bought a pair of RF35, they have the dual input terminals connected by the plates that allow for standard operation. According to the spec sheet, separating the terminals by removing the jumper strap will allow for bi-wire configuration. Friend has a modern receiver that allows true bi-AMP mode. Can this be accomplished by removing the jumper straps (i.e., if there were no true bi-amp receivers back in 2001, maybe this was eliminated in the manual to reduce confusion). Anyway it seems to me that removing the jumpers should separate the internal xover/speakers into HF and LF components such that true bi-amp configuration should be possible. Or am I missing something? Michael 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted March 10, 2016 Author Share Posted March 10, 2016 At worst, we might need to modify the networks, in which case the question would be - we would wish to eliminate any network components dealing with the point and slope of the X-over, but not any components dealing with any frequency anomalies such as eq notches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 (edited) My 2013 Onkyo 717 AVR has exactly that same option, but you have it exactly right Colter according to the Onk manual. Pull off the straps separating the HF/LF. Go into the On Screen Display of the AVR in the setup and choose "Standard" or "Bi-amp." Then you are good to go. The next part I am about to tell you, you already know; it makes almost NO difference in the sound. I did a lot of critical listening both ways on my AVR with the CF-4's. I could maybe hear a little bit of clarity in the midrange, but only if I was being picky. In everyday listening in a blind test I'm very sure I could not tell you if it was in bi-amp mode or standard mode. Edited March 10, 2016 by wvu80 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted March 10, 2016 Share Posted March 10, 2016 Michael: easy to find out. Disconnect the jumpers uses a small battery, double A would be fine you only need to click test the woofer section while your friend listens to the tweeter. If the network is split he won't hear a thing. A nickle says the networks are split. Nice speaker the RF35 great vehicle for modifications. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InVeNtOr Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 My 2013 Onkyo 717 AVR has exactly that same option, but you have it exactly right Colter according to the Onk manual. Pull off the straps separating the HF/LF. Go into the On Screen Display of the AVR in the setup and choose "Standard" or "Bi-amp." Then you are good to go. The next part I am about to tell you, you already know; it makes almost NO difference in the sound. I did a lot of critical listening both ways on my AVR with the CF-4's. I could maybe hear a little bit of clarity in the midrange, but only if I was being picky. In everyday listening in a blind test I'm very sure I could not tell you if it was in bi-amp mode or standard mode. ^^^ he said it right. can and will you hear a difference if you bi-wire or bi-amp...Yes, is it the best "upgrade" you can do...No. i've done it, both with an AVR (Onkyo 805 to be specific) and a true amp (Emotiva LPA-1 & XPA-3). to me, as a picky critical listener i am, the only thing i actually heard was it was a touch "louder". keep this in mind, i'm the say guy who has all custom made cables (all of them) and can hear the differences between gold, silver, platinum, etc... the biggest issue with a bi-wire (worse choice) and bi-amp is the amount of money you will spend in speaker wire. to truly squeeze ever ounce of that minor "upgrade" you do need some "good" wire. i'm not talking $50 a foot wire either, just not pure junk. the Monoprice will work, but really the stuff you can get for $5 a foot will give you the most out of it. that's why i say it's not the best upgrade you can do. the amount of money you will spend in wire a lone, you can either buy a better receiver or amp. if you were to pair your Onkyo with an Emotiva amp for $300-$400, that "upgrade" would be significant. (i know, i've done it!). "wire and cables" should be the LAST upgrade you do. spend the most on speakers, speaker upgrades, like crossovers, then amps, then receivers. after all that is done, and your Sub makes your heart sing (those suckers can be $2K+), then worry about cabling. this is coming from a guy who is a major Cable Guy! (insert clips now...lol) heck, if you like i'll ship you out a BOX of custom made cables that you can play with. when you are done, ship them back. it's really a pain to do that though. lots of plugging and unplugging, takes ALL day! you have to really want to do that! lol! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldred Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) I had 2 pairs of RF35's for years..... Leave jumpers in.... Biwire/Biamp is a complete waste time. I am not a expert in sound though..... Just a normal expert... Tell your friend to enjoy the 35's.... everyone I ever sold them to..... Loves them. G.E.M Edited March 12, 2016 by oldred 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 My first Klipsch was the RF-7. As many, the high frequency was fatiguing after a long listening set. In my experience bi-amping the 7's produced awesome results. I ran a 250 wpc Yammy to the LF and a 40 wpc Rotel to the HF. The result was like candy to my ears. Just IMO... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SneakerRob Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 So is the general consensus bi-amping isn't worth the doing? I've pondered doing it, but never tried Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattSER Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 If it makes "no difference", then why not just do it? The results, if any, can only be positive. I had good results with bi-amping, bit it was only noticeable with two completely separate amps. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Definitely a thing to try for yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 So is the general consensus bi-amping isn't worth the doing? I've pondered doing it, but never tried On the contrary. If it is done properly, for the right reasons, results are nothing short of outstanding. I am in the process of bi-amping my La Scala's now. 1 dual mono 6 wpc TSA to the tops. 2 TSA 12 wpc mono blocks to the bass bins. I expect phenomenal results! Another forum members actual description of what I am doing, "mind blowing". Bi-amping is going to be the icing on the cake it was only noticeable with two completely separate amps. my point, properly Sorry OP "Colter", I know this has nothing to do with your original question. Matt ♪ ♫ ♪ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 (edited) So is the general consensus bi-amping isn't worth the doing? I've pondered doing it, but never tried That's correct. You can try it for yourself, I did even though everybody told me what I just reported; with my AVR it makes no significant difference. Except: Mattser said it worked for him using a separate amp for HF and LF. I have heard it is beneficial for a power hungry large speaker like my CF-4, because the boost in power to the LF helps it balance the very strong midrange and top end. +++ EDIT: I just read what Matthews wrote directly upstream ^^^ from my post, and I agree with his "On the contrary" point. Done right with separate amps, many have reported significant improvement. Edited March 12, 2016 by wvu80 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich_Guy Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 Many people find no difference with bi-wiring. Personally I prefer my my front speakers bi-wired and have found it to be a very slight improvement with just a very little improvement to detail. My current wires I am using which I made myself using Mogami quad core wire. Picture is before I added GLS locking bananas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
derrickdj1 Posted March 12, 2016 Share Posted March 12, 2016 The key with bi-amp is to use and electronic XO and setting the XO and timing between the drivers correctly. With passive bi-amping, each driver gets the full signal and much of it is wasted in the passive XO to the tweeter which does not need anywhere close to the power needed by the bass part of the speaker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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