Do they sell covers in black

[Regislive]

Hello all

 

I am currently building a home theather and will be using two of the Klipsch in ceiling speakers.  It appears the covers only come in white, does anyone know where to get them in black?  I know you can paint them but honestly when I spay paint I always go way to heavy and I do not trust myself enough as I don't want to reduce the sound thru the grill. 

[jason str]

Klipsch employees rarely visit here.

 

I suggest you give Klipsch a call or just spray them with several light coats of spray paint.

[WMcD]

I looked at the owner's manual for in-ceiling speakers.  Though it might or might not pertain to yours. 

 

There is some talk of how they can be painted.  Are these covers sheet metal with a lot of little holes, like a salt shaker?

 

The drawings don't give a lot of info.  It looks like Klipsch is suggesting a regular old spray can paint but then using an air compressor -- probably to blow out the paint which has accumulated in the holes by capillary action.  I think this is your concern.

 

My thought is that if you don't have a big old air compressor, you could use something like the "Liquid Air" sort of duster blaster sold by computer stores.

 

More thoughts.  A spray lacquer like Krylon lacquer is going to be less thick in viscosity than a spray enamel (which is also marketed under the Krylon name - so be careful).  Therefore less build up in the small holes.

 

If I were doing this, I'd put masking tape on the reverse side of the grills and pull it off soon after spraying.  The theory is that any lacquer accumulating in the holes will stick to the tape when you remove it. 

 

WMcD

[mungkiman]

It looks like Klipsch is suggesting a regular old spray can paint but then using an air compressor -- probably to blow out the paint which has accumulated in the holes by capillary action.  I think this is your concern.   My thought is that if you don't have a big old air compressor, you could use something like the "Liquid Air" sort of duster blaster sold by computer stores.

 

Exactly. We paint grills more often in houses than we don't. Either of the suggested methods are great, but only when the paint is wet. Otherwise, you'll be cleaning the grill holes with a toothpick...

 

If I were doing this, I'd put masking tape on the reverse side of the grills and pull it off soon after spraying.  The theory is that any lacquer accumulating in the holes will stick to the tape when you remove it. 

 

A lot of ceiling/wall speaker grills have a fabric on the backside, and most manufacturers suggest leaving it in place. 

 

Light coats of paint is the key.

[WMcD]

I like munkiman's suggestions.  He has hands on experience.

 

The drawings are still a bit of a mystery to me.  Maybe what they show is fabric behind the metal grill.  It must be removable or else the use of the compressor would be pointless, IMHO.

 

WMcD

 

 

[Karsoncookie]

When I did a similar project painting perforated metal with about  1mm holes, I simply GENTLY BLOTTED - NOT rubbed- with a rag the backside of the just sprayed piece.  

 

I used a scrap of old soft terrycloth 100% cotton bath towel.

 

Possibly, very slight dampening of this towel with APPROPRIATE solvent, would make the wicking action even better.

 

 

Worked perfect, no excess paint left in holes.

 

And ya, don't use  a heavy body paint.

 

 

I 'm pretty sure the compressed air idea will cause major redistribution, "chasing away" of the paint, like  "sags".Lars

[jason str]

A foam roller will work as well.

 

You will need to find some clean cardboard and roll off the excess paint from the roller before using it on your work.

 

This must be done every time you dip your roller in the paint or you will clog up your grille.

Edited April 20, 2016 by jason str

[WMcD]

Use a shop-vac on the back to suck out the excess?

 

WMcD

[Karsoncookie]

Jason- Ya, roller makes sense.

 

But keep in mind, anything he would roll will be heavier bodied than even the heavyest spray, and possibly  tend to bridge those holes.

 

I do understand you mean a pretty dry roller, but then it may have coverage issues.

 

Anyway, lots of ways to skin a cat.  Lars

[jason str]

Rolling off the excess paint on your cardboard there will be no excess material on your roller.

 

If you happen to clog up some of your grille a foam brush from the back would probably be the best method of removal but i agree with Lars, compressed air will just distort your finish.

[mungkiman]

Use a shop-vac on the back to suck out the excess?

 

WMcD

 

Another good solution. The Klipsch drawings do seem to indicate removing the rear fabric. We sometimes see that, and those usually have self-adhering adhesive. Many manufacturers don't, so the fabric is difficult to position and re adhere. 

[jason str]

Jason- Ya, roller makes sense.

 

But keep in mind, anything he would roll will be heavier bodied than even the heavyest spray, and possibly  tend to bridge those holes.

 

I do understand you mean a pretty dry roller, but then it may have coverage issues.

 

Anyway, lots of ways to skin a cat.  Lars

 

Yes, it would not be a one coat ordeal, multiple thin coats is always best.

[jason str]

I'm not so sure a shop vac would have enough suction to remove dripping paint but admit never trying it.

 

A foam brush or foam Q-tip will work for sure.

[Karsoncookie]

Use a shop-vac on the back to suck out the excess?

 

WMcD

The rag idea , I feel, is best.  Lars

 

In any case, this is no big deal. So simple, just don't paint with a heavy hand.  Lars

[Karsoncookie]

Even with the finest holes, a low viscosity spray, with a few light coats like Jason said, is the simple key.   No problem, done in few minutes.

 

With a proper application amount of low vis paint, I would NOT expect the holes to bridge.

 

But if .....

 

Just have the rag READY to blot backside if necessary.  

 

Anbd ya, like said above, I would stay away from using anything labeled "enamel"

 

Not sure of this, but that may be usually thicker.Lars

[jason str]

Rags may shed fuzz onto your work but you should be able to remove most of it after your work is dry.

[Karsoncookie]

Well, I assumed one would intuitively select a rag that would be less likely to shed.

 

I figured we were way past that basic level.

 

But very good point to those that would not think of that.

 

Good comment.  Lars

[jason str]

Well, I assumed one would intuitively select a rag that would be less likely to shed.

 

I figured we were way past that basic level.

 

But very good point to those that would not think of that.

 

Good comment.  Lars

 

 

You would think so.

 

When i ran my handyman service years ago i asked one of the guys to nail up a few pieces of clear Oak in a basement we were finishing up.

 

Sounds easy right ?

 

Sorry to say he used framing nails to install the hardwood trim instead of trim nails.

 

Just wanted to give a heads up is all.

[Karsoncookie]

That's funny. WOW.   Lars

[jason str]

Funny now but at the time it was wasted money out of my pocket that could have gone to new shoes or clothes for the kids.