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One RT-12D or one or two Jl Audio Fathom 113


Funkster!

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I want to thank everyone that participated in the complete dissection and slicing and dicing of my question. There are so many subtleties involved and I know very little about this subject.....but I am learning. My biggest issue (besides ignorance) is space. My screen starts 19 inches above the floor and approx. 8 inches off the ceiling. It's tight and there's barely enough room to squeeze another sub into my room that won't interfere with viewing my screen; so I am leaning towards the smallest footprint times two.....at least that's my logic. All four corners have bass traps and no room to put them except directly in front of the screen area.

Although I've fallen off the wagon a few times, I've always believed in supporting American made products but when I look at my current setup it's pretty revealing. Oppo, JCV, Onkyo; and I recently bought an LG OLED set (South Korea?). I think my Stewart screen and Middle Atlantic rack are still made in the U.S.

It's kind of amazing and sad. 

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Home Theater A

Home Theater B

I don't have any space to spare, even behind my seats. I have two rows (3 and 3)of reclining theater chairs and the only area I could add anything to is under the rear row riser but even that isn't high enough. I have bass traps in every corner (vertical and horizontal) along with traps on the walls. All this turned my once spacious and open theater room into something comparable to a cabin of a medium sized airplane. It's very comfortable, but tight. They'res just not alot of space available.

Edited by Funkster!
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Shakers, Aura Pro or Clark can fit under the Chairs.  I use the Aura Pro's mounted to the under side of a large sectional.  It would take me 3 to 5 more big subs to get where the subs and shakers are currently.  See signature for my subs.

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I don't have any space to spare

It looks like you have built your screen out and it is even with the front of the RC-64ii. If so, you could build something custom that slips behind the screen. You only need like 10" or something.

I'd also try to elevate that center a little more, especially with multiple rows.

Building that screen out a little more, switching to an acoustically transparent one, relocating the center behind the screen or even upgrading to a third tower, and building custom sub boxes that go behind or under the screen would be a better use of funds as opposed to two JL Fathoms if you can swing it. It looks like you are almost there already.

How much is that screen built out from the wall and how much vertical room do you have under it?

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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The problem with moving the screen is access to the rack area. The only place I could put the AV equipment was under the basement stairwell. If the screen is brought forward it'll be very difficult to access the equipment. The decision as to the room depth was affected by structures outside the theater room and I couldn't make it bigger.

The 64 is actually in front of the screen and if I went with two subs, I was going to have one on each side of the 64. That's about the only

configuration that will work.

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I don't have any space to spare, even behind my seats. I have two rows (3 and 3)of reclining theater chairs and the only area I could add anything to is under the rear row riser but even that isn't high enough. I have bass traps in every corner (vertical and horizontal) along with traps on the walls. All this turned my once spacious and open theater room into something comparable to a cabin of a medium sized airplane. It's very comfortable, but tight. They'res just not alot of space available.

 

 

You have more than enough room behind the right main (sitting in your chair section)for a THTLP and the left rear for a THTLP or standard THT slim.

 

These are the places you should do some testing to see if they work well for your sub placement.

 

These horn loaded models will easily surpass anything even close to the price range.

 

Footprint on the LP model is 18" x 15" and uses your ceiling for a boundary, best use of space you can get.

 

If not for you do some testing with your current sub to see if mentioned placement is to your liking and use it for whatever subs you go with,

Edited by jason str
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If you are near Jason (Chicago), he is an authorized builder of these subs. It would be 6' tall, but they are designed to be used in corners and aimed at the ceiling. With one of them you would get a 12db corner loading boost from the ceiling and the front and side walls. You would remove your existing bass trap, after all, you want the bass to bounce out of the corner. Bang for the buck you can't beat them. They can be made to look like anything and painted in any color. eg: 

 

8117739555_813c2e54b9_z.jpg

 

If this isn't a possibility for you, you might consider the cylinder type SVS PC-13 Ultra. It is slightly shorter than your RF-7 and has a 16.6" diameter. One of these will set you back $1699. http://www.svsound.com/collections/cylinder-subwoofers/products/pc13-ultra. They are kinda ugly, but one would work.

Edited by mustang guy
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I am no longer a BFM authorized builder but am happy to still build them for others.

 

That column Mustang guy shows in his post was one of my designs that somebody must have saw on my websight.

 

Out of all the different subwoofers i have built and heard over the years i feel these BFM horns are bang for the buck winners in every way.

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I am no longer a BFM authorized builder but am happy to still build them for others.

 

That column Mustang guy shows in his post was one of my designs that somebody must have saw on my websight.

 

Out of all the different subwoofers i have built and heard over the years i feel these BFM horns are bang for the buck winners in every way.

Really?  I didn't know you stopped....

 

The column picture came from a BFM forums thread. A guy put a pair of them in his HT. I bet that sounded great.

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