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Klipsch RSW-15 Setup Issues


RoboKlipsch

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I've spent a lot of time setting up my recently acquired RSW15 :emotion-19:  .  I did the subwoofer crawl, I have tried setting it up in a dozen different places.  I could be wrong, but it seems very touchy :mad:  as far as setup and getting the low end bass to sound right, at least as a single sub.


 


For instance, in the corner, after running Audyssey XT, it gets a very even response, but at even a decent volume, a low-end frequency test creates a "whirring" sound around 25hz (+-5hz).  I have no idea if this is the sub starting to bottom out (my guess) or if it's some kind of port-type noise, even  though it's a passive radiator design and not really a port.  My guess is it's a soft version of just starting to bottom out.


 


I run a test tone from 100hz down to 10hz in 5hz steps (from youtube).  In the current position, it sounds really good, and makes no whirring sounds.  The tones are clear, there is a null at 70-75, but otherwise it sounds very good.  The audible volume (not measured) seems to peak around 40hz, then plays very strong down to 30hz, then drops a lot to 25hz, then there's just a whisper around 20hz.  I can run the THX subwoofer test (youtube) at a pretty loud volume and it also sounds great.  


 


If I run that same test in the corner, at a high volume, I may even get that sound at 30hz, very audible at 25hz, then a bit at 20hz, then it fades out.  At the same time, the output sounds much stronger at the lowest end.  At other locations (I ran about a dozen), it varies from no whirring with thin sound to everything else up to the corner spot.  


 


So at least assuming things are setup right (*** u....me....), I've got great sound now throughout the entire range, but a lot less audible low end than I was expecting.I can turn it way up with no whirring sounds, yet there is still a decent/audible tone even down to 20hz.  


 


What the heck is that whirring noise?  Best I can describe is WHHIIIIIRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzz z z z z  s s  as it descends down the range.  It never has "knocked" but it does get louder if I turn it up. 


 


I'd appreciate anybody's help or expertise.  I know many of you have had this sub and I'm more than willing to believe I'm doing something wrong with the setup or measurements.


 


Thank you in advance.  RK


 


 


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If you are sure it is the subwoofer and not something else around it rattling, first thing i would check for is a leak.

 

Get yourself a small 3/16-1/4" or so vacuum line or hose from the hardware store and run a 20 Hz signal through the sub.

 

With one side of the line near but not in your ear go around the driver. passive, amp, seams while your test tone is playing.

 

If there is a leak it will sound like a chuffing noise, repair your leak if there happens to be one.

 

This should fix it.

 

if no leak is found

 

Put the subwoofer on a towel or something upside down and run the same music and volume you heard the noise with before.

 

See if the noise is still there.

 

Could be a bad cable as well, hard to diagnose this kind of stuff online without really hearing it.

Edited by jason str
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If you are sure it is the subwoofer and not something else around it rattling, first thing i would check for is a leak.

 

Get yourself a small 3/16-1/4" or so vacuum line or hose from the hardware store and run a 20 Hz signal through the sub.

 

With one side of the line near but not in your ear go around the driver. passive, amp, seams while your test tone is playing.

 

If there is a leak it will sound like a chuffing noise, repair your leak if there happens to be one.

 

This should fix it.

 

if no leak is found

 

Put the subwoofer on a towel or something upside down and run the same music and volume you heard the noise with before.

 

See if the noise is still there.

 

Could be a bad cable as well, hard to diagnose this kind of stuff online without really hearing it.

The four feet are not on the bottom of the sub...the holes that are there go into the enclosure and affect the pressure.  

I can test it tomorow, but that could be the issue.  I don't have the feet but I'm sure it's an easy item to get.  

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 My RSW15 does not make a whirring sound at any SPL or any pitch.

 

The output rolls off below 30Hz, and there is none below about 24, according to REW tests.

 

Can you actually see into the box where the feet used to be?

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Its dark but i can tell it does. I blew a little air through one and could feel it pressurize when covering 2 others. I cant believe that is it ! but i ordered a set of feet on amazon that arrive today. I checked the tightness of all screws no obvious leaks besides the foot peg holes.

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It probably would have been best to buy something locally, that way you could make sure you get soft rubber ones rather than hard ones but i guess its too late now.

 

Soft rubber will keep noise to a minimum on a hard uneven floor and help keep it from scooting around.

 

If you have carpeting it probably will not matter.

 

Good luck.

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Jason i ordered the svs isolation ones that are soft...its on carpet but i was using rubber rectangles supplied with it...but i doubt they were covering the holes on most setups i did. I can test later today without the feet to see if that was it. Condition is so nice i doubt its leaking elsewhere but am not aure. Do you think the footholes could cause the whir?

Edited by RoboKlipsch
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If there are multiple leaking holes where feet were mounted plugging up the holes should fix the problem, no guarantees but most likely the issue.

 

If you purchased SVS brand rubber feet I'm sorry to say you just got ripped off.

 

I get high quality rubber feet for 75 cents to $1.40 each depending on size and they are available at most home repair centers or even local hardware stores.

 

Parts ecpress has many to choose from as well.

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a low-end frequency test creates a "whirring" sound around 25hz (+-5hz).  I have no idea if this is the sub starting to bottom out (my guess) or if it's some kind of port-type noise, even  though it's a passive radiator design and not really a port.

Turn it off and just press on the cone. Put pressure on it in multiple directions from the middle and see if you can get the voice coil to rub. Also press on it and hold it. If there's a leak you can probably hear it at this point, and if you can see the radiator, it will probably return to its normal position halfway quickly.

 

I run a test tone from 100hz down to 10hz in 5hz steps (from youtube).

First of all I'd ditch YouTube. Download REW (it's free), and get a clean and uncompressed signal where you have more control of the frequencies. To check for the noise, use subsonic frequencies too so that nothing is masked by the bass output, like 10-15 hz, assuming the DSP/amp can reproduce it, which it sounds like it can.

 

I've got great sound now throughout the entire range, but a lot less audible low end than I was expecting.I can turn it way up with no whirring sounds

Leaks don't go away depending on where in the room the sub is. :) It may be masking it due to higher SPL though.

 

What the heck is that whirring noise?  Best I can describe is WHHIIIIIRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrzzzz z z z z  s s  as it descends down the range.

Typed sound effects are always kind of vague and everybody's imagination goes wild. :) I'd recommend trying to describe this noise more. Is it air? Does it sound mechanical? If you physically press on the cone does this happen? Sometimes voice coils can rub and it can produce a sound that some may describe as being just like this, and it can get worse down low and at higher volumes like you describe. I had one that did this.

 

My guess is it's a soft version of just starting to bottom out.

It never has "knocked" but it does get louder if I turn it up.

You either bottom out or you don't. If you did this there would be a very obvious clacking sound and it doesn't start soft and incrementally get louder, it's pretty violent. Usually hard to bottom out factory made subs though due to nearly all of them having a built in DSP that limits such things.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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a low-end frequency test creates a "whirring" sound around 25hz (+-5hz).  I have no idea if this is the sub starting to bottom out (my guess) or if it's some kind of port-type noise, even  though it's a passive radiator design and not really a port.

Turn it off and just press on the cone. Put pressure on it in multiple directions from the middle and see if you can get the voice coil to rub. Also press on it and hold it. If there's a leak you can probably hear it at this point, and if you can see the radiator, it will probably return to its normal position halfway quickly.

 

Comments like this are exactly why many of these Klipsch woofer cones are dented and creased.

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Comments like this are exactly why many of these Klipsch woofer cones are dented and creased.

You should be able to use multiple fingers and press on the center like around the dust cap without doing damage. They're not exactly THAT fragile. I didn't say to roundhouse kick the things in football cleats or put 100 pounds of pressure on it. Klipsch woofers typically have a very compliant suspension too, it just doesn't take much. The dents everybody complains about are usually tiny, like somebody shot it with a weak BB gun. I don't know where those come from but if this caused it then mine would be dented all to hell.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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Comments like this are exactly why many of these Klipsch woofer cones are dented and creased.

You should be able to use multiple fingers and press on the center without doing damage. They're not exactly THAT fragile. I didn't say to roundhouse kick the things in football cleats or put 100 pounds of pressure on it. Klipsch woofers typically have a very compliant suspension too, it just doesn't take much. The dents everybody complains about are usually tiny, like somebody shot it with a weak BB gun.

 

 

Pressing lightly on the face of the woofer is the best way to check for voice coil damage.  A lot of the creases seen are from the speaker being dropped and the basket breaking causing the magnet to shift to one side or the other.

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There is the right way and a wrong way to test for leaks.

 

I posted the right way.

 

Maybe if after i was sure it was the driver causing the noise i may push on the cone slightly after it was removed from the cabinet at different angles to confirm it was the voice coil.

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I'm curious about the output more than anything. The idea that a factory built sub has a leak so bad that even at 30 hz it kills output very significantly even without measurements and makes a horrible sound just doesn't seem to be reality to me. Maybe that's the case but that would be one hell of a leak that should be very obvious. Having nothing but "a whisper" at 20 hz coupled with an awful noise seems more like a major blowout if it were leak related, like serious surround damage or something.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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Derrick thank you for the vote pointing in Jason's direction.  Every time I see your posts I am mesmerized by Gollum...and then the subwoofer signature jeezus is (6) real?  LOL

 

...gary thank you for sharing about your own, it's helpful to know what it should sound like.  I did hear test tones at 20, but will wait to see if that was real or distortion, assuming this thing begins working properly

 

Jason, I like your passion and especially the irritation you get when someone does something not the best way, lol!  I ordered the feet because they come with several screw sizes and Amazon will deliver free today (about a 12 hour window from ordering time).  If they work and it solves the problem, I think I can return them and go get them at Depot or the like once i know what I need.  Even if I can't, this is a beautiful sub and I'm OK giving it way too nice feet :)

 

As for your advice, it's great, as always.  Just by suggesting I turn it over and try it, I didn't even have to try it (yet), I saw the holes and immediately thought that is the issue.  4  1/4" holes (approx) would equal a 1" port!    Scott, who sold me the sub, was really cool and gave me a call to discuss this morning.  I can't say enough good things about Scott and his way of dealing with things.

 

What I did was VERY GENTLY <touched> the driver cone, and yes you can see the passive radiator move.   BUT, the real issue I think is, when I do it, you can feel the air coming out the holes, big time.  I could probably have spent hours/days/weeks/years thinking this sub just is what it is, but if this fixes the problem BOOM I'm a happy camper :)  If not...the adventure continues.

 

MPS the sound is loud enough when placed in a corner that it's a distraction...and as a newbie to this higher end equipment I don't have enough experience to know what I am hearing for sure.  One of you guys would likely have heard it and right away said dude there's a leak what's up?  I sure hope the foot holes are the issue, I am amazed that nobody has ever had this experience...but then again, how often do you take the spikes or feet off a sub?   I believe the output of the sub is such that at around 20hz, it doesn't have much.  If it is/were bottoming, I suppose it should get worse the lower the tone...and it shouldn't really be able to play a nice 25hz anywhere in the room without it (I would think?) if it were actually bottoming...but again I don't know.  

 

I'm going to do a quick setup and see if I can repeat the noise, with the sub upside down (hat tip jason) so that the holes are up and I can hear it more directly (and feel it).

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