Klipsch RSW-15 Setup Issues

[RoboKlipsch]

Ah ha!  

 

So I ran Audssey at the MLP with the sub all the way in the corner, upside down.

 

How can I cover these holes????? So I used the rectangular feet given to me with the sub (big hard rubber rectangles, put two over one side of the holes, held them down with my elbows, then covered the other 2 with my fingers.

 

WORKED LIKE A CHARM!

 

Take a finger off,   there's the noise even more pronounced out of one hole...take two off, it's there, put them back, none.

 

I stood up the rectangles on top of each hole, and they actually seem to cover them well and no sound.  So I will use a bit until the feet come, then I'll get in touch with you Jason and see if you can guide me to a cheaper set that will do the job right.

 

Can't thank the gang here enough!  I just listened a bit to it in the corner, loud, OMG this thing rocks!  I cannot wait to use it without the "fear" 

 

 

CEC you are on the money, MLO it's unbelievable.  Because it's on the underside of the sub, it would have been impossible to find without flipping it over.  Close to the box, you would think it is a mechanical sound.  With one hole open and the rest closed, the best I can describe it is if you tried making a fart sound out of one side of your mouth...that is the sound lol!  I can try and record it if anybody is interested to hear it.

 

OMG what a relief 

[babadono]

Awesome!

[jason str]

Happy to help.

 

As for your cabinet feet just find some 3/4-1" soft rubber feet at least 1/2" high.

 

Don't use the plastic type, adhesive or tack on type, what you need is similar to >these<

 

Available at most home improvement stores.

 

If you are happy with the feet you ordered by all means use them if you like.

 

If your mounting screws are too small for the holes in your cabinet you will need to fill them in before installing.

 

Drill out the holes and glue in a dowel rod the same size as your drill bit, Bondo or toothpicks & wood glue will work for filler.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

[SWL]

Glad you found the issue Rob. [emoji106]

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[jason str]

Another tell tale sign of a leaking cabinet is pressing lightly on the driver and seeing that the passive doesn't move.

 

Unless the cabinet leak is the size of a crater the passive is still going to move, this serves no purpose.

[RoboKlipsch]

 

Another tell tale sign of a leaking cabinet is pressing lightly on the driver and seeing that the passive doesn't move.

 

Unless the cabinet leak is the size of a crater the passive is still going to move, this serves no purpose.

 

That makes sense to me and certainly played out that way in practice...a 1" diameter leak overall still allowed cone movement as if it was sealed, at least to me.

[RoboKlipsch]

Instead of starting a thread to ask this question about subs, I'll ask it here since it's relevant to what we discussed.

 

I do understand, I think, that the gain on the sub is to be set to a certain level that matches the spl of the other speakers in the particular room.

After calibrating, if I wanted more bass sound, I should increase it in the AVR, no on the sub itself.  Typically the way it's setup is actually fine for me.

But I still am having difficulty understanding the sub gain/volume vs the AVR.

When I turn it up in the AVR, it goes louder and louder along with the other speakers.

 

If I happened to turn the gain up a bit on the sub, what would be different exactly besides not matching the other speakers?

 

To test the max volume of a sub (which I have no need or intention of doing), would you then increase the gain on the sub to the max, and then max it in the avr?

 

How does the efficiency of a speaker determine the sub gain level, if it does?

 

Thanks again in advance.  The RSW15 is incredible and seems to be yawning at anything I throw at it, but I'm kind of wimpy as far as really turning it up so far. 

 

RK

[Paducah Home Theater]

Take a finger off,   there's the noise even more pronounced out of one hole.

a 1" diameter leak overall still allowed cone movement as if it was sealed, at least to me.

The interesting thing about a passive radiator design is that you're going to get backpressure from the radiator as if it were a port, making internal air pressure very high, much higher than a simple sealed box. Maybe this was shoving more air out of those holes than would be expected. I dunno.

Edited April 15, 2016 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters

[RoboKlipsch]

 

Take a finger off,   there's the noise even more pronounced out of one hole.

a 1" diameter leak overall still allowed cone movement as if it was sealed, at least to me.

The interesting thing about a passive radiator design is that you're going to get backpressure from the radiator as if it were a port, making internal air pressure very high, much higher than a simple sealed box. Maybe this was shoving more air out of those holes than would be expected. I dunno.

 

I don't argue in the least anything as I don't know enough, but it's hard for me to grasp that a passive radiator is considered a ported design, when the radiator as you describe is preventing any air from escaping.  Basically the experiment I conducted (unknowingly) demonstrated for me how critical sub design and sealing is, any small leak through the cabinet can kill the sound out of your sub.  

 

I can understand that a passive radiator has flex and is not as solid as the cabinet itself, but can't quite grasp how a passive radiator is like a port (unless I am mistaken on this).

[CECAA850]

a 1" diameter leak overall still allowed cone movement as if it was sealed, at least to me.

 

That is counterintuitive isn't it.  It would be interesting if you pushed the active driver in and held it if you'd see the passive return to normal as the air slowly escaped.

[CECAA850]

I can understand that a passive radiator has flex and is not as solid as the cabinet itself, but can't quite grasp how a passive radiator is like a port (unless I am mistaken on this).

 

A passive actually is a port and can be tuned with weights.

[Paducah Home Theater]

I don't argue in the least anything as I don't know enough, but it's hard for me to grasp that a passive radiator is considered a ported design, when the radiator as you describe is preventing any air from escaping.  Basically the experiment I conducted (unknowingly) demonstrated for me how critical sub design and sealing is, any small leak through the cabinet can kill the sound out of your sub.  

 

I can understand that a passive radiator has flex and is not as solid as the cabinet itself, but can't quite grasp how a passive radiator is like a port (unless I am mistaken on this).

Notice that passive radiators usually have either twice the radiators as drivers, or they have one radiator that has twice the excursion. Also notice that the James "energy multipler" subs is basically a bandpass design where only the radiator is exposed, and that radiator is moving more than the cone behind it is.

This is because with ports and radiators, you're basically cracking a whip in terms of the air reacting on them. You're moving more air than the driver itself is. When a sub really gets going in a ported box, you can feel the air coming out of it. Most people think that is the same amount that the subwoofer cone is displacing but it isn't, it's actually much more. Same thing happens with a radiator.

Edited April 15, 2016 by MetropolisLakeOutfitters

[jason str]

 

a 1" diameter leak overall still allowed cone movement as if it was sealed, at least to me.

 

That is counterintuitive isn't it.  It would be interesting if you pushed the active driver in and held it if you'd see the passive return to normal as the air slowly escaped.

 

 

If you can hold your hand steady enough and have a leak big enough this could work but still not going to tell you where the leak is.

 

What is wrong with doing a leak check properly ?

 

 

 

I can understand that a passive radiator has flex and is not as solid as the cabinet itself, but can't quite grasp how a passive radiator is like a port (unless I am mistaken on this).

 

A passive actually is a port and can be tuned with weights.

 

 

Passive acts like a port but is in reality a passive, two different things.

 

 

 

I don't argue in the least anything as I don't know enough, but it's hard for me to grasp that a passive radiator is considered a ported design, when the radiator as you describe is preventing any air from escaping.  Basically the experiment I conducted (unknowingly) demonstrated for me how critical sub design and sealing is, any small leak through the cabinet can kill the sound out of your sub.  

 

I can understand that a passive radiator has flex and is not as solid as the cabinet itself, but can't quite grasp how a passive radiator is like a port (unless I am mistaken on this).

Notice that passive radiators usually have either twice the radiators as drivers, or they have one radiator that has twice the excursion. Also notice that the James "energy multipler" subs is basically a bandpass design where only the radiator is exposed, and that radiator is moving more than the cone behind it is.

This is because with ports and radiators, you're basically cracking a whip in terms of the air reacting on them. You're moving more air than the driver itself is. When a sub really gets going in a ported box, you can feel the air coming out of it. Most people think that is the same amount that the subwoofer cone is displacing but it isn't, it's actually much more. Same thing happens with a radiator.

 

 

 

This is the weak spot in many of the Klipsch passive designs.

[Paducah Home Theater]

This is the weak spot in many of the Klipsch passive designs.

Not sure what you mean, could be taken multiple ways.

[jason str]

 

This is the weak spot in many of the Klipsch passive designs.

Not sure what you mean, could be taken multiple ways.

 

 

Passive being too small and/or not enough X-max for the woofer.

[Matthews]

I can understand that a passive radiator has flex and is not as solid as the cabinet itself, but can't quite grasp how a passive radiator is like a port

This is what I did with the passive radiator on my RSW-15

Spectacularly pleased with the results

Matt ♪ ♫ ♪

 

p.s. I do NOT like passives

[SWL]

How big is that port....2"?

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[SWL]

How is it better than the passive radiator?

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[Matthews]

How big is that port....2"?

It is 4" diameter by 10 inch total length (flared both ends).

[garyrc]

Usually hard to bottom out factory made subs though due to nearly all of them having a built in DSP that limits such things.

 

Agreed.  My RSW15 clicked off once during the outrageous soundtrack of Pacific Rim ... I thought, "Oh, no, I've blown it!"  It clicked back on a moment later, no problem.

 

Just to see what the protection was, I called Klipsch and asked it the RSW15 had a limiter on it to prevent blowing it out.  The answer was, "Yes, it does, but some people can blow up anything!"