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Denon DL-103 CARTRIDGE MODIFICATION WITH WOODEN BODY


Jim

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Has anyone done the modification to this cartridge? I am getting a modified cartridge with a new aluminum cantilever and line trace tip and see where people are cutting off the casing to the cartridge and putting it in a wooden casing. Soundsmith does it as well as a few others out there. There's a DIY wood case that you can mod by yourself with directions on how to do it,so I'm contemplating doing it. I got the cartridge for $112.00 + $18.00 shipping, and the casing runs $79-99, so I figure it can't hurt to try it.

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I did the mod on my 103 using an aluminum body from a ebay seller, similar to what Zu uses. The procedure is delicate but not hard to perform. I also epoxied the cartridge into the body. I really could not tell any difference in sound quality with the mod. The cartridge is considerably heavier now and would probably work/sound better on a medium mass arm than a stock unit. I am using it on a Audio Technica atp-12t broadcast arm so the cartridge was a good match to begin with. 

Edited by ACM
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I couldn't detect any difference at all. At the time I was using a Lenco L75 with the Atp-12t, a diy sut using beyerdynamics transformers into a NOS Valves restored Scott 299C mated to Altec Lansing Model 18's. That system should have revealed any differences.

Just today I pulled out the Lenco and hooked it up to my McIntosh MX113/MC2100 combo, feeding Forte 2's and the combo freakin rocks! Everything from Pink Floyd to Flaming Lips to Kyuss to Gatemouth, it all sounds great.

I think the story may be different when mating the 103 to tonearms that may not be a perfect match. I have a technics 1200 and a JVC ql-y66f with straight tonearm that I could put the cartridge on to try to compare but it just works so well with the Lenco/ATP-12t combo, I haven't found a reason to go through the effort.

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I guess what I'm trying to say is, if you have a tonearm that the is a natural match to the 103 than the body probably won't have much effect. If you have an arm that is a little light for the 103 then a rebody may help if the body adds mass.

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I have heard modified 103's and 103r's... I really could hear no measurable differences either. The 103r is a great cart for the money, I would spend the capital on a better cart if I were you.

Ruby tipping is the way to go, though I have not heard a cacus tipped soundsmith as yet.

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Schu,

 

The reason I'm trying the 103 instead is I was told it's more forgiving/versatile when it comes to SUT or MC phono pre amps. I still don't have a great SUT or MC pre yet.

 

Right now I have the Ortofon T-20 that I use on the Ortofon MC20 MKII, and a Schiit Mani MM/MC. I've been playing around more with tables and carts the past few months and am leaning more towards investing in a better phono pre and table within the next 6 months or so.

 

My plan on this 103 is to try the wooden case,then try the Paradox Aluminum casing with the epoxy pot on it. Then upgrading the cantilever and tip afterwards. All in all,costs for the wooden body,cartridge,and the upgrades it already is coming with on the cantilever and better tip, will run me $190.00 complete.If I do the Paradox,it's another $169.00.So it's only going to run me about $350.00 total. Paradox also has a set up complete with the ruby/line trace or 2 other upgraded cantilever tip set ups for $599.00.They get the modded cantilever and tips done through Soundsmith and one other guy in Oregon.

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  The difference is there compared to a stock 103. Digs a bit deeper. The 103 is a bargain. I have a spare.

 

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I think I saw this pic on Facebook,or maybe vinylengine. The one below with the wooden headshell.

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Just got it in today.Mounted it to my JVC table as the arm can handle it with a little extra weight. Put on about 18 inches of lead tape around the counterweight. I also am using a newly built adjustable SUT to try it out as well. So far it's not a bad cartridge at all. I also tried it on the Ortofon T-20 SUT, and will be trying it out on a Schiit Mani.

 

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