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Klipsch C3 [Discontinued] Speaker question


zedd45

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I have a set of Synergy F3s, a C3 and S3s with the accompanying powered subwoofer. 
 

One of my speakers (the C3) has lost the L-Shaped gold-plated metal connector that connects the upper and lower terminals to one another. I've made do with a cheap hack (some speaker wire connects the top to bottom), but I'd really like to fix this the proper way,

 

The trouble is that I can't seem to find a connector like this (although I will admit I've only recently begun my search, and it's

not exhaustive).   Could someone point me in the right direction? 

 

I have attached a picture of the speaker terminals on the F3 that have not been lost.

Here's the speaker in question: 
http://www.klipsch.com/products/c-3-center-speaker

post-63336-0-80940000-1464823026_thumb.j

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I honestly prefer 14 or 12 gauge wire to connect them over the gold plates. I replaced all mine with such. There are two sizes of cups Klipsch put out. The RF gen I line used longer gold braces than the latter ones. I'm assuming these are the shorter?

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The Synergy series are roughly 10 to 12 years old.  I think it's the shorter length, at least on the C3.  The F3s seem to have a different brace that appears longer (but I'll have to take it back apart to be sure). 

 

I actually really like the idea you suggested (forgoing the gold plates), but forgive the ignorant question: if my receiver (Yamaha HTR-5790 [back panel]) only supports L/R for the center, I would then need a pre-amp in order to connect two sets of 12 AWG wire, correct? 

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If it's shorter, than I don't have any extras.

As for the wire, that's not exactly what we're saying. We're saying instead of using the straps for the connection between the two terminals, use a spade tipped wire between the two with 12 AWG. No second amp required.

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As for the wire, that's not exactly what we're saying. We're saying instead of using the straps for the connection between the two terminals, use a spade tipped wire between the two with 12 AWG.

 

You use a 12 AWG?  :blink:  You crazy kids, always going big.  :lol:

 

For such a short distance I would think 14 AWG or 16 AWG would be plenty.   (and yes, the spade connectors are too small for my terminals)  :rolleyes:

 

post-58280-0-91420000-1464826217_thumb.j

Edited by wvu80
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Going to 12 awg for those little interconnects is one of those luxuries we CAN afford!  :D

+++

 

Michael, do you want to explain to Mr. Zedd why you put one banana plug on top, and the other one on the bottom terminal?  B)

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Certainly. While it's partially due to a similar circumstance you're facing Dave - the terminal ends are too small for the actual posts, it's also what's become a bit of a logical practice to me.

Klipsch crossovers that feature two sets of binding posts typically have one post going to the HF Driver, while another post goes to the LF driver(s). Thus, the strap is in place to make sure a signal is received by both HF and LF drivers. It allows for equal distribution of current between the two. However, with straps, homemade or otherwise...even internally, the wiring could come loose. If that happens and both hot lines are going to either or, you run the risk of frying the crossover or the drivers.

By staggering the wires, you remove that potential, as the negative or positive is being received but if one is disconnected, no signal is then completed within the speaker. Whereas previously you could fry a driver, by staggering the wires, you remove that risk.

Every single speaker I own that has dual binding posts where both posts aren't used is staggered in the same way. In the event of an L/R speaker having these, I usually invert the wiring on each channel - not that it honestly does anything. There was some website out there that insisted it did, but if it does...I would sure love it if someone would presented me with a spectrum analysis of what that difference is, because my ears won't hear it.

Bottom line or tl;dr: It's safer.

Edited by IbizaFlame
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hahaha thanks guys! This is great info.  

 

I've actually been using some leftover 16 AWG monster XP originally purchased for the satellite speakers to connect the terminals on the C3, but it's always felt like a "hack."  Using proper connectors and staggering them should help make it feel more official, and put my mind at ease. 

 

I still have a ton of monster cable left over from college (I worked a stint at Best Buy, but I feel like I've forgotten more than I learned), so running lower gauge isn't really expensive :) 

 

I've been running 5.1 for years, but I love the 7.1 setup.  I tend to move every other year or so, and thus one of the moves I lost the connectors for the C3, and one place the living room was hardwood, so I stopped running the 7.1.  But I'm in my own place now, and I'm tempted to hook it all back up.  It's so fulfilling to hear PS4 or even blue rays move from one side of the room to the other across the audio channels. 

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16 AWG will be fine. Actually, the first RC-3 II I received was using two strands (albeit bare) of 20 AWG wire. It surely worked for that original owner. The Polk TSi100's I had were shipped with 24 AWG wiring as well. 16 AWG will be fine, 14 is just what I prefer on that run.

But it is certainly no hack. In fact, if memory serves right, the RF-7's and the RC-7 did NOT use bootstraps, they in fact used actual wires with spades similar to what we're recommending.

Been down the Best Buy road, realized half way through the training that a lot of what was being said there was either wrong, or more in violation of my moral code than the previous job, thusly I told them where they could put their job. lol

If you enjoy the 5.1 setup and start looking at the upgrades, here's some advice: we're all mad here.

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