mustang guy Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks Dean. Great thread, and I must say that I am actually thinking I like the AA caps better than the AL-3's. I have a question and a correction from your OP: @@Deang, on 27 Jun 2016 - 5:46 PM, said "Part number 534-7373. Two lead throughs, mostly just used for input positive - I connect the primary high pass capacitor and low pass coil with this (on the barrier strip)." Question: What are these? I looked them up on Mouser, and can't quite figure out what they are being used for. "Part number 533-38002-0257. These are the solder lugs that are primarily used on the board itself, and which I use a #8 1/2 screw. I don't always use these - it depends on the gauge size and strength of the capacitor leads. My capacitors are well secured - they're not going anywhere. If I don't use these, I'm normall tied off to a 14AWG or larger coil lead. I do tend to play a little fast and loose here - but these aren't inside of a loudspeaker and being exposed to a ridiculous amount of mechanical vibration." Correction: The part number is wrong on this. It should be 538-38002-0257 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) With the components you list, these should be superior to the stock AA's. Will they sound different enough to tell apart if I use these on the L/C/R speakers when the rears are all stock with Sonicaps? Edited June 29, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Are you willing to share sources/links to the caps, coils and autoformers? Even though Jupiter stopped making the bees wax flat sides some time ago, I sourced my new old stock components from Europe and Vietnam. FYI, Jupiter has a flat side bees wax replacement coming soon (they may actually already be available) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirrunna Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 I did however add the schematic, and will provide something much more helpful - a layout. Thank you for the schematic, I look forward to the layout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) ... 534-7373 was also incorrect - should have been 534-7313. My eyesight is terrible! You're like me. Without my cheaters I can't see. BTW, I left you a question back on post #42. Edited June 29, 2016 by mustang guy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 (edited) I did however add the schematic, and will provide something much more helpful - a layout. Agree. I've put together several DIY kits now and what was most helpful to me was the "point-to-point" diagrams. +++ Hey Mustang Guy: Craig, what are you thinking regarding your La Scala setups? I know you have six in play and I think you have modded the front three, I can't remember. I'd like to do some work on my stock AA that are in the Khorns but I am suffering from paralysis by analysis. What do you think about the idea of doing some mix 'n match with XO's? I think you have an extra XO siting around somewhere, as well. Edited June 29, 2016 by wvu80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-js- Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Very cool Dean... I don't know if I'll ever build a set of x-overs but I really enjoy the knowledge your sharing.... Thank you... MKP :-) ^ what he said. IDK that I will ever try this, but I do find it very interesting to follow. who knows, I might actually learn something. Dean seems like the man on these xo's! thanks again Dean for sharing what you've learned! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quiet_Hollow Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Thanks Dean. Great thread... Agreed! +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Perfect, Dean (Post 52 ^^^). Those are the drawings I can follow. May I suggest you add it to Post #1 as well? That will help to organize and centralize the most important information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 29, 2016 Author Share Posted June 29, 2016 . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 It's nice to see the stainless screw through that air core inductor. For those of you who aren't going to use stainless on the network, make sure you do use stainless on that. Ferrous metal changes the inductance and therefore the filter properties. The original AA networks used a steel screw to hold that down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted June 30, 2016 Author Share Posted June 30, 2016 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted June 30, 2016 Share Posted June 30, 2016 So, who thinks their midrange is too hot? Anyone want to talk about attenuation? Resistors? Mine are too hot. So are you talking auto transformer, resistor, potentiometer or Lpad? Which is best? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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