Schu Posted July 6, 2016 Share Posted July 6, 2016 I say... "Ship it!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) I'm thinking about building it. Thanks for your guidance, Dean. -Dave Edited July 11, 2016 by wvu80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wirrunna Posted July 7, 2016 Share Posted July 7, 2016 (edited) My googling on crossover evaluation for K-Horns has not come up with much other than - https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/146678-crossover-network-comparison/ which compares the crossovers in other heritage speakers. Edited August 2, 2016 by Wirrunna Quoted deleted post. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 11, 2016 Author Share Posted July 11, 2016 I would really appreciate it if this thread was reserved for discussion related to the Type AA build. Please start another thread if you'd like to discuss other networks. So, is anyone building, or thinking about it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel's wife Posted July 11, 2016 Moderators Share Posted July 11, 2016 This thread should be pinned. Done. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 So, who thinks their midrange is too hot? Anyone want to talk about attenuation? Resistors? I was going to ask this at some point, so this is timely..... but does the method of changing the tap on the autoformer, and substituting a 6.8uf cap for the 13uf cap work for a Khorn? Sure does. Just move the midrange wire from 4 to 3 and change the cap. Another way: move the wire from 4 to 3, and then put a 15 ohm/20 watt resistor in parallel with the driver. Just slide the leads under the screws for negative and positive. This method allows for retaining the 13uF capacitor. Get adventurous and try it both ways - they sound a little different. Would a Mills 15 ohm, 12 watt resistor work? Like this? https://www.parts-express.com/mills-15-ohm-12w-non-inductive-resistor--005-15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted July 13, 2016 Author Share Posted July 13, 2016 That's what I normally use. If you're really into driving the loudspeakers to their limits, you should probably go with a 20 watt resistor. I know it sounds stupid, but different resistor types do effect the sound - however, this is in parallel, not in series - and I've just never given that one much thought before. I just developed a habit of buying the best parts I could afford. I use Mundorf when I feel like I need a higher powered resistor. Definitely overpriced, just like the rest of their stuff - but the quality is undeniable. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mundorf-20-watt/15.0-ohm-mundorf-m-resist-supreme-resistors/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted July 13, 2016 Share Posted July 13, 2016 That's cool, I don't drive them all that hard....most of the time. Thanks. I ordered the Mills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rxonmymind Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 (edited) That's a work of art. Simple & no nonsense. Beautiful work Dean. Edited July 22, 2016 by Rxonmymind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rxonmymind Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 BTW I do believe they still make the Jupiter flat stack. http://jupitercondenser.com/product/aluminum-foil-flat-stacked-wax-capacitor/ http://jupitercondenser.com/product/copper-foil-flat-stacked-wax-capacitor/ Granted this is the 2.2uf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 The flat stacks have been discontinued and replaced with a round bees wax version Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlson3 Posted September 1, 2016 Share Posted September 1, 2016 which inexpensive capacitors in battery bias mode give the best subjective result ? (polyester? polypropylene? bipolar electrolytic?) are Dayton's bypass foil and film caps helpful in some instances? -- or do they tend to shift a spotlight emphasis to higher harmonics? I have battery biased vintage MBGO one of my K-horn Type A and would like to investigate modern film caps and perhaps electrolytic in charge coupled mode - but they need to be cheap for my budget. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted September 2, 2016 Author Share Posted September 2, 2016 I've only used the Dayton Audio Metalized polypropylenes for this -- so I can't answer your other questions. I would stay away from electrolytics, and if you must, you can buy Mylar (polyester) from Erse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoef Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 I agree with dean on the electrolytics. You said: they need to be cheap.... what are you willing to pay for a capacitor. (for the highest value / uf ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlson3 Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 hi Zoef - I'd really like to pay no more than what Erse Pulse-X cost - - I'm curious about the "tone" of electrolytic caps battery biased and wonder how Nichicon FG back to back with their center ++ junction biased with say 9vdc and 200K would sound vs cheap film caps (?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skelt Posted September 2, 2016 Share Posted September 2, 2016 On 6/30/2016 at 10:22 AM, Deang said: A thread on a battery biased network is coming too - it's the only way to get really awesome results when you're on a tight budget. I was looking forward to this one, is this thread still on the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoef Posted September 4, 2016 Share Posted September 4, 2016 On 2-9-2016 at 11:42 PM, karlson3 said: hi Zoef - I'd really like to pay no more than what Erse Pulse-X cost - - I'm curious about the "tone" of electrolytic caps battery biased and wonder how Nichicon FG back to back with their center ++ junction biased with say 9vdc and 200K would sound vs cheap film caps (?) Budget wise i would not know of a "better" cap to use. One comes to mind..wima mkp10.... but now i'm being a heretic ha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zoef Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 Maybe this question is a old one... (sorry) Is there a ideal dcr value for the bass section? (for the AA and the Alk universal) If i understand correctly: lower dcr is not always better. Correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlson3 Posted September 7, 2016 Share Posted September 7, 2016 in some cases of basshorn, amplifier (solid stste), and basshorn driver, a really low D.C.R. might sound "lean" - but in those cases a small resistance could be added to the inductor, - ERSE sells sever lines of good steel core inductors. I have a couple of "2.5mH" custom Elecvtraprint (read 2.11mH on my cheap and cheerful ESR meter) with 0.1 ohm D.C. R. - there's no gap in the lamination stack. Small differences in response can become "big" to the audiophile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel's wife Posted September 20, 2016 Moderators Share Posted September 20, 2016 Unpinned at request of OP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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