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Horn Loaded Sub Recommendation


Rivernuggets

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Yes, the Cinema sub is huge and very powerful.

 

It would be easy enough for Klipsch to develop a horn loaded sub for homes. Are there any big companies doing it? If not, then you have to ask why... Those things are big and expensive to ship for sure. I don't know about the demand. Perhaps they could sample the market. Perhaps they already have...

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I have to imagine the market for horn loaded subs is rather small. Look at the amount of 8" and smaller subs on the market. Big boxes are not an easy sell anymore. Within this group or the DIY forums, horn subs are accepted and loved. The general population acceptance is probably pretty dismal.

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I have to imagine the market for horn loaded subs is rather small. Look at the amount of 8" and smaller subs on the market. Big boxes are not an easy sell anymore. Within this group or the DIY forums, horn subs are accepted and loved. The general population acceptance is probably pretty dismal.

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Maybe it is, and maybe it isn't realistic market-wise. Design-wise, are horns superior for bass or is it just a personal preference?

It would be interesting to hear what Klipsch says officially - anyone know whether this has been addressed in the past?

 

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I have to imagine the market for horn loaded subs is rather small. Look at the amount of 8" and smaller subs on the market. Big boxes are not an easy sell anymore. Within this group or the DIY forums, horn subs are accepted and loved. The general population acceptance is probably pretty dismal.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Maybe it is, and maybe it isn't realistic market-wise. Design-wise, are horns superior for bass or is it just a personal preference?

It would be interesting to hear what Klipsch says officially - anyone know whether this has been addressed in the past?

 

 

Oh, and I would happily volunteer to test any horn-loaded sub Klipsch cares to serve up for the home market... ; )

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Its not just about volume and overkill of any type but what you get with a horn that makes the difference.

 

Absence of distortion, clarity and minute details are the real star of the show.

 

Being able to run them on very little power is just an added bonus.

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The HPF is for the speakers. The LPF would be for the sub in that amp. You wouldn't use either filter.

How do I set a crossover point to a DIY sub?  I thought I was good to go with this QSC pro amp.

 

Thanks for explaining the differences between the Table Tuba and T-30.  The pictures help a lot!

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Lyle

I have a dual 18 and 4 dual 15 bass bins from the KP-600 series if you have any interest. I can be a 1 stop shop LOL

 

Mark

Thanks but I've got the Horn Loaded Sub Itch and hunting for the cure.

Found this thread where DrWho suggests an Othorn sub.  Skip down to the bottom, post #40, and he describes why he likes it.

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Lyle, if you're coming down this way.....you're welcome to get an earful of my dual THTLP Tubas. Each one is 15x18x72.

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Thanks Scott.  If I can ever get outta here and road trip for speakers, I'll let you know.   :emotion-21:

My shop has close to 12' ceilings so that low profile Tuba design would work well given such a relatively small footprint.

Edited by Rivernuggets
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The HPF is for the speakers. The LPF would be for the sub in that amp. You wouldn't use either filter.

How do I set a crossover point to a DIY sub?  I thought I was good to go with this QSC pro amp.

 

Thanks for explaining the differences between the Table Tuba and T-30.  The pictures help a lot!

 

minidsp would be the simplest. The 2x4 would work and give more functionality if you need it than simple HPF.

 

 

 

Lyle

I have a dual 18 and 4 dual 15 bass bins from the KP-600 series if you have any interest. I can be a 1 stop shop LOL

 

Mark

Thanks but I've got the Horn Loaded Sub Itch and hunting for the cure.

Found this thread where DrWho suggests an Othorn sub.  Skip down to the bottom, post #40, and he describes why he likes it.

 

That is a big sub for sure. It is more like an F20 or a THT than the table tuba and T-30. In fact it is the same size as my THT's but it has the gigantic 21" B&C which costs $650 and weighs twice what the LAB12 in the T-30 does. 

 

If you want to see a real sub, look at the T-60. It's 5 ft long, but 30" high and wide. Can be built to be moved, uses a much cheaper driver,. and would own the Orthorn inside or out. Better yet, you can put a pair of $175 LAB 12's in one and get this:

 

212.gif

instead of the Orthorn:

 

BIvK5zll.png

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One more consideration would be the Titan-48 which is between the T-30 and the T-60.

 

T48_EAW850.gif

 

Cheap drivers, lighter weight, and can be made portable. Size 48"x24"x24"

 

Here is the T-30 which is less efficient but tuned a bit lower:

 

CVL36.gif

 

and finally the TableTuba:

 

HalfSpace.gif

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Thanks for all the feedback guys.  That Minidsp 2x4 has a lot of options, mustang.  The manual is well written and complete.  I like the visuals provided for each plugin description.  This is very new for me. 

If size is no issue the Tuba 60 is a absolute beast and total overkill if that is what you are going for.

That's just it, I'm trying to decide what I'm after.  This is all very helpful and fun at the same time!

Gotta go to work now.  Be back to soon.

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I think the charts showing the freq. responses for the BFM designs aren't exactly accurate. Most of these are meant to be used as duals or even quads or more, which will increase the bottom end and flatten the response.

 

If you go with a minidsp, at least get the HD version with 96k. The 48k versions have too many artifacts and you will hear the difference.

 

Bruce

Edited by Marvel
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I think the charts showing the freq. responses for the BFM designs aren't exactly accurate. Most of these are meant to be used as duals or even quads or more, which will increase the bottom end and flatten the response.

 

If you go with a minidsp, at least get the HD version with 96k. The 48k versions have too many artifacts and you will hear the difference.

 

Bruce

 

 

Not true, lots of measurements taken by different people and they all reflect the same way.

 

Only those who do not follow instructions have less than stellar results.

 

Multiples not only flatten response but also dig deeper.

 

Do you mind me asking where you get your information from Bruce ?

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If you want to see a real sub, look at the T-60. It's 5 ft long, but 30" high and wide. Can be built to be moved, uses a much cheaper driver,. and would own the Orthorn inside or out.
 

I have a really hard time believing that....The Lab12 just isn't a great driver and I'm not sure there is any horn out there that would provide enough gain to let it keep up with the B&C 21SW152 - even if the B&C were in a sealed cabinet. Frequency response is totally the wrong plot for understanding why that is the case.

 

I also think it's important to look at performance versus cabinet volume. Physics dictates that low frequencies need a longer horn - and that's why Klipsch doesn't market a horn sub to the home audio market. They are selling subs that are the size people want in their home. For cinema Klipsch has the 1802HLS - that would be the sub to use in the home if you want a Klipsch branded horn loaded cabinet.

 

Why are we always subjected to these crayon drawings on graph paper for the Fitzidiot designs? Every time I see a measurement taken with industry standard software and equipment, the response plots look totally different.

 

Btw, it looks like there is a new big boy on the market....

http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=system&id=131

Anybody know anything about this sub?

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