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need B&C compression driver bolts


Paducah Home Theater

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Got a couple of DE-750 compression drivers from a forum member but they didn't come with bolts. They're supposed to have the two sided bolts where one side goes in the driver then you put the horn on then put nuts on the other end. Problem is, I have no idea what these are called, or where to find them. The thread pattern is a typical M6. Can normal bolts be used? I guess I'm going to try that next, could be that a 50/65mm long bolt would fit just fine.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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You can't put bolts(machine screws) through the holes in the horn lens and then into the driver?

That's what I'm trying next. I have some on me that are the right thread but they are way too long, going to try some shorter ones. Wasn't entirely sure if there's any reason why I wouldn't want to do that but surely it's ok.

Edited by MetropolisLakeOutfitters
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If a "threaded rod" is needed for some reason,, woudn't it be simplest/ cheapest/ quickest  to get a long appropriate bolt at local hardware store and just cut off the head ?

 

I assume the fastener you need is less than 2 or3 inch, which should be available as a slotted or phillips machine screw or hex drive.

 

May be hardened, may need to grind rather than cut.

 

I mean , I do not know that driver or horn, are you saying the original fastener is some custom proprietary neccesitated piece?

 

Or maybe it's a "stud" type mounting, using a short "threaded rod"?

 

If so, and the threaded hole does not go through, wouldn't a correct length sccrew work?  

 

Maybe I'm missing something, but hard to believe it's complicated.  Lars

Edited by Karsoncookie
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I looked at at photo of the driver, and I see the blind holes.

 

Actually, aren't most or many others like that also?

 

So anyway, just get a screw the appropriate length.

 

The nice thing is you can choose choice of finish including black, and some head style you like, and will no longer have an ugly stud end hanging out of a nut showing.

 

Somehow that sentence sounds dirty.

 

Anyway - I like these in either black or stainless - more common styles and sizes typically available at old style hardware stores in those little Hillman drawers.   Lars

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=socket+head+cap+screw&rlz=1C1AVNC_enUS590US647&espv=2&biw=1040&bih=892&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwi2yvuU0uLNAhXJZCYKHVJZAmkQ_AUIBigB

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Got a couple of DE-750 compression drivers from a forum member but they didn't come with bolts. They're supposed to have the two sided bolts where one side goes in the driver then you put the horn on then put nuts on the other end. Problem is, I have no idea what these are called, or where to find them. The thread pattern is a typical M6. Can normal bolts be used? I guess I'm going to try that next, could be that a 50/65mm long bolt would fit just fine.

What you're describing is, generally, called a stud. As mentioned, you can get some 'all-thread' and some nuts and cut the all-thread to your needed length, then dress the cut ends (the threads get slightly deformed from the cut) so they will start easy, both nut and in the driver.  

 

Unless it's through holes where you can let the head of a smaller diameter bolt shoulder against one of the flanges, I would get what you need = I would avoid doing this. 

 

Machining is something that I do. PM me what you need and I'll send you just that. 

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Sooo, why not the Hillman drawers?  

 

Only need to buy qty you need, you can see and choose in hand, and local.

 

Hardened - so grind them shorter. Agreed?           Lars

 

I assume most folks are familiar with theses, but hey I dunno maybe not everybody.

 

1-large.jpg

Edited by Karsoncookie
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If you are going to cut or grind any bolt or threaded rod to length its best to use a thread chaser or at least put a nut on the thread before cutting, it is nearly impossible to get a nut started on a mangled end of a bolt.

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Not to crap the thread, but I think it's answered so..

 

Jweber - You mentioned you do machining.

 

On another post question was being asked about K400 gasket, which led to throat reaming.

 

I'm curious, labor time wise -  Is it much more time consuming to index reamer on the threaded hole ID, rather than just ream the ID of throat which may not depending on mold quality, be the same "centering" on the end result installed driver?     Lars

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Don't forget the nuts...

 

This thread was answered before post #4.

 

 

 

The OP still seemed unsure.

 

We all have our own OC, one of mine is hardware.

 

Besides, I put out some possibility's he may not have thought of

 

Thank you for your support.      Lars

 

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