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Legacy 15" Driver on PE


fuzzydog

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Seems like a nice looking driver for $160.  What do you guys think of the specs?  It's used normally in Legacy brand subs according to a thread on AVS.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/15-famous-maker-dvc-high-excursion-aluminum-cone-subwoofer-4-ohms-per-coil--299-700?AID=1457483&PID=4003003&SID=is4khdn7lp00s3dy0005c

 

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The dual 4ohm coils allow for a 2ohm load, which can be matched with an inuke3000 and get 1k watts per channel cheap!

This was the philosophy of  the original Martysub builds, using cheap but good quality power to max out an amp $$$-wise.

 

No idea how the driver is but for home theater use the Ultimax series is designed to go lower (I think).

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29 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said:

No idea how the driver is but for home theater use the Ultimax series is designed to go lower (I think).

I'm inclined to agree just based on the Fs value, but the motor on the Legacy driver looks much more powerful.

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That looks like a nice driver.  Will it go in a go in a vented or sealed box?  Is box size a problem.  The suggest box sizes on the website are very small.  I don't think you need a huge box but, something a bit bigger will increase your extension and sensitivity down low.  Ask PE to simulate the driver in a 6 ft vented and 4 ft sealed box using the program Bass Box.

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The Legacy sub that the driver was used in has a passive radiator.  I'm probably not going to buy one of these drivers since I'm going to be using two SI DS4 18" subs when i finally finish my build.  

 

Although, if this driver could be used in a small sealed box, maybe i could fit one in the rear corner of my media room to fill in the mid-bass...

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2 of these showed up at my door today!   How did that happen?  :ph34r:

 

I really appreciate you pointing this driver out.  I was originally planning to build a couple ported subs for nearfield and was going to use the Ultimax 12.  

I modeled this driver and while it has a hump in response in the mid-bass...that may work very well in my setup.  

My current subs are monsters and are pretty much flat but the chop I had to PEQ was in the higher band, 60-80/90ish, so this could be an interesting summation with the response hump.  Or, maybe they will suck, I guess I'm not sure :wacko:  

 

I have an L-shaped room so getting all the seats within a narrow band (+-5db from 15-100) is quite a challenge.  Easily within that range until around 60hz, at which point each seat differs and some nearfield mid bass may be the answer.  

 

If anybody objects to putting this into a 4cft vented enclosure tuned to around 21hz, please say so now. (or, laugh later....)

Or if you really like a different driver better in 4cft I'm open to hearing about that.   I want the sub to be able to be a standalone --- if at some point I put it in another room or setup I want it to be able to go low, that's why I selected this over the RO/RF series from Dayton which I think would be very nice too.   

 

Otherwise....I'm going to start a DIY build thread here at Klipsch and bring anybody along that cares to see the progress.


By the way this driver weighs 45 lbs.    More than the 18" Ultimax drivers.   It looks like a monster.   Hopefully it won't tip the sub over lol :)

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3cft sealed in WinISD is actually a bit big -- the excursion gets too high without a filter.  A smaller on around 1.5 or 2 seems to model much better for excursion and spl.

 

I have 2 of those kits ordered already actually.  I was considering the 12" kits and they would be fine imo.  The dimensions weren't quite as nice though with the 12 being around 5" longer.  Should be a fun and easy build...which works great for me :)

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Although there's a bit of a hump for the midbass, it's easily PEQd out if necessary.

The lower end, with this XMAX and motor seem able to boost the low end and create a better low end than any other driver I can find in a 4cft ported box.

If anybody can model or find a driver in the $200 or less range they think will work or model better, please feel free to make a suggestion.

 

When I model it, it crushes the 15" RO or RF driver.  The Ultimax at 15" needs a way bigger box and can't be PEQd well in 4cft.

The 12" Ultimax is the closest I could come in modelling, but still found I could get 1hz more extension, and 3more DB at 20hz and above.  But the 12" ultimax is really almost ideal in a 4cft box.  

 

The 12" ultimax is a nice driver, but the box it would go in from DIYSG is more rectangular and not ideal for the nearfield I'm considering.

 

 

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39 minutes ago, FuzzyDog said:

Can you post a picture of the response curve from your modeling?

Let's see if these show up, I haven't tried to post a graph before from REW

Famous 15 High Excursion SPL HPF Only.xps

Famous 15 High Excursion SPL HPF and 5db 20HZ boost.xps

Famous 15 High Excursion SPL 2nd O HPF 5db 20boost and bit of EQ.xps

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All 3 graphs are using the DIYSG 4cft ported enclosure with a slot port, tuned to 21hz

 

First graph shows what the driver does by itself, using only a 2nd order HPF.    Driver has enough excursion you can use a 2nd order even with full power.  This shows 1600watts.  

 

Second graph shows what the driver does using a 3rd order HPF, 5db boost at 20hz Q1.  800 watts

 

Third graph shows a PEQ corrected graph, using a 2nd order HPF, 5db boost at 20hz Q1, and a very small amount of PEQ to straighten the response. 425 watts

 

Each curve is shown designed to get to XMAX, and slightly beyond (about 10% beyond XMAX).  Shows a few different ways you might set it up.  What I see and like is that the driver can be made flat, if necessary, and drive a very high SPL, and low HZ, using only 425 watts max.  

 

What do you think FD?

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Hi DJ -- Thank you.   I'll take a look.  My plan is to "build" a few from kits, so I don't have to do too much.   Options currently are 4cft for a 12", 4cft for a 15" or 5.4cft for a 18".  Don't want to go 18 as it gets bigger and more expensive.  And I've got 2 of those :)  

 

With 2 subs that go to 14hz flat, and 10hz at -7db, I figure a couple of ported subs right behind the couch that can model to 20hz should get to 15 solid.  With reclining seats I think they can sit behind seats 1 and 3, potentially at just about 3 feet from driver to ears.  About 4 or 5 feet from the MLP, I figure 2, one on each side, should nail the middle seat too combined.   In Seats 1 or 3 with the seat reclined, ears may be as close as 8 to 10" from the drivers. 

 

 

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DJ and FD - this is my current response at each of the 3 main seats.  The amount of time spent measuring every spot in the room, saving them, combining them, tweaking and testing to get to here was immense.   A lot of fun, a lot of frustration, and a pretty nice set of graphs.  It currently is crossing over at 120hz as I find the fronts and room don't work so well in the lower range.  

 

 

Center Seat.jpgLeft Seat.jpgRight Seat.jpg

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