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Bass traps


owen

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1 hour ago, owen said:

Before I buy I would like to get your opinions,good idea to put corner bass traps behind your passives like forte,quartet and chorus ii or not.thanks 

 

It is possible to have too much absorption in the near field, but you can adjust this using the bass traps and the corners of the room.

 

If you set the bass traps on the floor, i.e., the top of the bass traps are open to the room (about 4 feet from the floor, but not the bottom of the bass traps) then you can adjust the volume enclosed by the bass trap and the corner of the room by simply sliding the bass trap left or right while the sides of the trap are still contacting the walls--it will allow tuning of the amount of midbass that you're absorbing near the passive radiators. You can definitely hear the differences and can adjust the entrapped corner volume to taste. 

 

corner-trap.gif

 

Chris

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Bass traps helped my room but was not the drastic improvement you might hope for.  More important were efforts towards getting the speakers and and the seat positioned correctly.  Your location options might be limited but this can be a game of fractions of an inch making a difference.  

 

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If you work in certain industries or have access, there are some commercial packing materials that make fine foundations for bass trap construction.

 

For example, in the IT world one might buy hard drives in lots of 60, and they arrive embedded in a giant slab of dark high density foam; typically a big slab like this has three columns of twenty drives, each residing in a 1/2 inch slots already cut into the material to hold each drive... so the slab may be 2 feet high x 8 inches deep x 18 inches wide, with 60 half inch slots... very bass trappy..

 

Similar types of packing/protection materials are out there, typically discarded as waste.

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I've gotten good prices and service from here: http://www.acoustimac.com/categories-products

Tube traps from: http://www.acousticsciences.com/products/tube-trap

They have a reflective side for dispersion so they don't over absorb and suck all the sound out of the room.  You can turn the reflective side as you wish.  One of these in the center of the speakers has really helped the sound stage!  You can pull forward or back to push the sound stage forward or back... pretty cool!  But wow are they expensive!

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Ready Acoustics used to sell just the bass trap bags, and I bought the Owens-Corning panels from my local building materials supplier.  That made the double-thickness bass traps very inexpensive--about $50-$75 each, and very versatile for placing in above my Jubs in the corners on top of the tapped horn subs.  I adjust the volume entrapped by sliding them slightly to the outside walls, still touching each wall. 

 

A shot from a couple of years ago before the change of the center channel loudspeaker:

 

gallery_26262_6_1571719.jpg

 

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7 hours ago, mikebse2a3 said:

How about some information or links on the bass traps you guys are using and installed pictures would be real nice to see as well.

 

miketn :)

 

Ethan Winer is real proud of this article.  

 

http://ethanwiner.com/basstrap_myths.htm

 

 

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1 hour ago, Chris A said:

Ready Acoustics used to sell just the bass trap bags, and I bought the Owens-Corning panels from my local building materials supplier.  That made the double-thickness bass traps very inexpensive--about $50-$75 each, and very versatile for placing in above my Jubs in the corners on top of the tapped horn subs.  I adjust the volume entrapped by sliding them slightly to the outside walls, still touching each wall. 

 

A shot from a couple of years ago before the change of the center channel loudspeaker:

 

gallery_26262_6_1571719.jpg

 

Chris is that the optimal position for the Jubs? They look really toed in from the rear chairs listening position.  Maybe its the picture, but it looks like the sound would cross a good 3 feet in front of the chairs.

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The K-402 is not like the K-400 midrange: you have to get off axis by more than 50 degrees to start seeing any changes in the polars.  That's not true for the K-400.

 

New Center Polars - Hor (10 Deg Incrs).png

 

K-402 hor polars.GIF

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1 hour ago, Max2 said:

Maybe its the picture, but it looks like the sound would cross a good 3 feet in front of the chairs.

The crossing point is more like 1 foot in front of the listening chairs, not 3 feet.  I don't like to be directly on-axis when listening due to the "fundamental flaw in stereo", section 9.1.3 of Floyd Toole's book, pg. 151(170th page of this file): https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B_l73GVBBlIUYjIwZGI3ZWItYmJlZC00NmM0LWFiMGUtNTcyMWY4MTUxYmM4/edit?pli=1

 

I believe this is the real reason that PWK advocated 3-channel stereo (i.e., two Khorns and a Belle or a La Scala). 

 

Chris

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3 hours ago, Chris A said:

Ready Acoustics used to sell just the bass trap bags, and I bought the Owens-Corning panels from my local building materials supplier.  That made the double-thickness bass traps very inexpensive--about $50-$75 each, and very versatile for placing in above my Jubs in the corners on top of the tapped horn subs.  I adjust the volume entrapped by sliding them slightly to the outside walls, still touching each wall. 

 

A shot from a couple of years ago before the change of the center channel loudspeaker:

 

gallery_26262_6_1571719.jpg

 

Look at the baffle of the Jubilee bass bin.

 

Hmmmmmmm, I see that Chris has also discovered the "trick" of putting a few inches of foam on the Jubilee baffle (between the two mouths). 

 

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Well, diffraction is a real issue above 210 Hz...

 

I've had those Auralex Sonofiber pads on my bass bins for ~6 years.  I originally put them there when I found that early reflections around the K-402 mouths were compromising the imaging, and those were large surfaces in close proximity to them.  Later, I found that dual mouth diffraction from 210-450 Hz is also an issue on the bass bin.

 

Chris

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