Marvel Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 http://www.klipsch.com/products/klipschorn-70th-anniversary-edition You can see that Klipsch enclosed the backs of the 70th anniversary edition. Some other on the forums have done something similar to their own, or as Paul Klipsch described, built false corners. For the best performance, being placed tight into corners gives the best bass response and overall tonal balance. You should try doing searches on the forums. At the least, reading will help to inform you more on the designs, tradeoffs and genius of Paul Klipsch. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 I'll make a suggestion beyond what Diz said. The goal is to recreate the triangular cut out with some accuracy. But you don't have to do that with the first cut. I'd make a first exploratory cut where you are sure it is two inches smaller or so on each side than needed. Then you have a hole and you can feel around to determine just how much extra you have to trim. In the distant past I had posted a picture of a feeler tool to determine where a perpendicular board actually meets its mate in a T so you can drill to the edge from the top with accuracy. It looks like a tuning fork. You can use a 1 x 3 about 8 inches long. Then cut a 3/4 inch slot (edit, or whatever thickness you are working with) in it about 6 inches down to form a tuning fork- like device. Then you can use this as a probe. I know, difficult to understand. Regarding the matching of woofers to the application. Don Keele came up with a way to do this using T-S parameters. The T-S parameters of the SL woofer show its not a good match. WMcD 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 A set of the SK plans might help you to make a template... I send them to you (they did make some different versions, but the bass bins are probable all the same or very close). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 I agree with WMcD regarding the exploratory hole, at least for the first one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 27, 2016 Share Posted August 27, 2016 The SK plans are in this thread. The builder used 3/4 inch and maybe his does not exactly match these as far as the cut out. I built a 3/4 inch version and it was a tremendous pain in the neck. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIFI4EVER Posted August 27, 2016 Author Share Posted August 27, 2016 Thanks for all the help guys. Marvel, PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 If that last pic on the other page is the back of your speakers....it looks like those have a enclosed panel so they do not need corners. If you take that panel off the access panel is behind that. If not and you have to cut a hole that's pretty easy to do. As far as sealing and confirming the seal.... its pretty easy to do but hard to explain on here. But I have a way to test the airtightness of the woofer chamber and it works. PM me and call me I can explain it to you. My 74 k-horns had a few leaks and I sealed them up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 As far as the bass not keeping up with the highs like you say ...that because these need to be in corners and have a foam seal to the corner. You can build a new crossover or buy one from Bob Crites I'm sure the one on the speaker is way out of spec. If you build enclosed backs [or false corners] and maybe extend the backs a foot or more it will help also. But they really need corners to preform as designed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted August 28, 2016 Share Posted August 28, 2016 Here is the "tuning fork" which I mentioned. I'm suggesting that you can use it to probe. On the shorter sides of the triangle you'll find the edges of the back chamber. On the long side you'll have to get even with the motor board which does not abut that side wall. Thus you'll have to estimate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted August 29, 2016 Share Posted August 29, 2016 Here's the single page from the SK plans with the dimensions of the side. This should help narrow it down. Bruce PAGE 11.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIFI4EVER Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 On 8/28/2016 at 3:18 AM, ricktate said: If that last pic on the other page is the back of your speakers....it looks like those have a enclosed panel so they do not need corners. If you take that panel off the access panel is behind that. If not and you have to cut a hole that's pretty easy to do. As far as sealing and confirming the seal.... its pretty easy to do but hard to explain on here. But I have a way to test the airtightness of the woofer chamber and it works. PM me and call me I can explain it to you. My 74 k-horns had a few leaks and I sealed them up. No, that is what I want though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIFI4EVER Posted August 30, 2016 Author Share Posted August 30, 2016 What black paint is used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ricktate Posted August 30, 2016 Share Posted August 30, 2016 I used rust oleum black enamel liquid in the can on the back sides .....when it dries its tough as nails. Also used it on the mid horn inside and out. I also sanded the seams and rough stuff on inside of the mid horn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIFI4EVER Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Thanks for the paint tip. I am now wondering about using like a nutsert or something to mount the back panels on to so not to ruin the wood or be able to remove them. I'm sure they will stay on, but should I just screw the rear panels on or use something more robust? I'm nor sure about sealing if I use some nutserts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HIFI4EVER Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Also: does someone have dimensions for the side grille wings here" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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