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Roboklipsch's DIYSG 4cft ported build using Legacy EF 15" Driver


RoboKlipsch

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For simplicity I like the idea of just drilling a small hole and sealing the terminals in those.  But I will definitely consider this option too, it does seem really clean and professional looking.

 

For this sub, the feet seem a challenge.  The port in there covers most of the bottom....I don't really want to deal with t-nuts or hurricane nuts if I don't have to with the feet.  Any ideas for feet that may work within those parameters?  I don't really "need" feet, but with a finished wood veneer I know it's the smart thing to do...or at least prop them up a bit so they are not touching the floor and rubbing if moved. 

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5 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said:

Scrap what type of screw/bolt did you use for this?   Pre-drill?

 

Thanks

RK

If you drill and are afraid of penetrating the inside of the cab, take a piece of rubber hose or a deep socket and slip it over the bit to create a stop.  Be sure the exposed section of bit is less than the thickness of your cabinet.

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5 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

If you pick it up to move it you'll be fine.  If you drag it you wont.  If you want to use longer screws, glue some blocks inside the cab where the feet will go.  They should be out of the way of the port from the looks of things.

I've picked those ************* up and turned them over or moved them so many times now that I will never drag them :blink2:

Of course, 45 more pounds will be added to each box once the drivers are loaded.  So there's that :emotion-19:

 

Am I being lazy not putting in longer bolts and the blocks?

 

 

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8 minutes ago, RoboKlipsch said:

 

Am I being lazy not putting in longer bolts and the blocks?

Let's see if Murphy can answer you.

 

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but there is always enough time to do it over.

The first 90% of a project takes 90% of the time, the last 10% takes the other 90% of the time.

Once a job is fouled up, anything done to improve it only makes it worse.

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1 hour ago, RoboKlipsch said:

I've picked those ************* up and turned them over or moved them so many times now that I will never drag them :blink2:

Of course, 45 more pounds will be added to each box once the drivers are loaded.  So there's that :emotion-19:

Yeah, i'm not planning on loading the driver in my sub until i drag the box upstairs and get it into final position.  :lol:

 

You're kicking my arse in the sub building business BTW...i think i've been working on mine for nearly 6 months!

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On 9/19/2016 at 3:24 PM, FuzzyDog said:

Yeah, i'm not planning on loading the driver in my sub until i drag the box upstairs and get it into final position.  :lol:

 

You're kicking my arse in the sub building business BTW...i think i've been working on mine for nearly 6 months!

That's a good idea!

 

FDog although this process is 100% fun and will provide way more bass than I could afford otherwise, there's an underlying stress involved in my first build.

I have never done most of these things so each one requires some reading, some youtube videos and a lot of thought -- as you know :)  Having a project out there that isn't complete weighs on my mind and I want it done! 

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Picking up where we left off on the finishing process, the dye had been put down and then sealed with the dewaxed SealCoat.

 

The next step in this process involves filling the wood pores with a combination of Old Masters Woodgrain Filler and ZAR's Early American Wood Stain.

The ratio is 2 parts woodgrain filler and 1 part stain, mixed in a container.  

 

Applied by using a small spoon to scoop from container, and then rubbed into the finish with the grain back and forth until worked in thoroughly.  Then it sits for a while, from 5 to 15 minutes or so depending upon the weather conditions, and then is rubbed off with a clean flannel rag against the grain, with a final rub with the grain.

 

The results of this step were finished in the last couple of days.  Pictures are below. I only have a few decent shots as I was holding a light and the camera, but will take more soon.  

 

I was shocked how much this step improved everything.  Most of the imperfections from the last step were covered completely by the filler/stain combination, and the color of the stain went over the dye from earlier, taking the reddish color to a nice rich brown.  I did touch up each panel with the dye rag as a step before finishing  -- when I finished putting the filler on each panel, I touched up the next panel with the dye.  It is suggested that the pore filler dry for 4 hours before recoating, or 16 hours before sealing.  I waited 4 hours in each case before turning it over to the next side, and now that they are all complete, they've all sat for 16+ hours.  

 

Surprisingly, since I started working on this I have not skipped a single day.  Today however with the rain...I may not have a chance to do any of the next step, which is SealCoat x3.  I can't remember a day without working on the subs lol....

Ported Sub Build Pic38.jpg

Ported Sub Build Pic37.jpg

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