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RoboKlipsch

Roboklipsch's DIYSG 4cft ported build using Legacy EF 15" Driver

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Here is a graph of eeg's 4cft sealed cabinet with 2 of the Legacy drivers in it.   Optimized to max excursion, 800 watts RMS (per driver, 1600watts for the cabinet).  There are 2 of these cabinets in his setup but this is a graph of one unit of 2:

 

Legacy 15 Optimized for 2 drivers in 4cft sealed system 2db boost at 20hz Q1 no HPF needed.xps

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I may have missed it, but are there any graphs of what these things will be capable of in the DIYSG enclosure you have?  I was only able to ****** one of them when they sold out (don't blame me lol) so I'll only have one to play with.  I can't decide if I want to go vented or sealed.  Thanks

 

David

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This sub forum is supposed to be about "scratching that low end itch" so seems like ****** should be allowed.

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Give me 30 mins I'll take some shots of winisd with different size. Boxes. Trying to get my kids to bed.

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Mike has an incredible setup.  As far as getting three seats to be the same: it's very, very hard.  My goal would just be to get everyone a good movie experience and get things reasonably close.  Those peaks and dips will go un-noticed in a movie by the people in the other seats.  Action scenes happen so fast.

 

Rob, at this point, your HT is just awsome with a ton of fire power that you can only enjoy when the wife is gone, lol.  Bass clarity, great dialogue are the things that put any HT over the top, IMHO.  To many times I hear people repeat I can't hear clearly what is being said on the screen.  They blame the speakers and it is the setup, room and overall blending/integration that is the culprit.

 

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First two are 2 of these drivers in a 8 cubic ft box since each of his boxes 4 cubic ft each. 2671b133d24dbac3bcbb0c01d4666124.jpg234d9109ada8a52197806c12310d0270.jpg

The next two are mine in 8 cubic ft boxes after the driver and bracing.
4 drivers sealed
ea349ff9db11401d53ccd7ff23f0b47a.jpg1a86f558df91a987f05389a40b747722.jpg
Sorry for the picture my screen shot on my laptop doesn't work so I took this with my iPhone 6+.



I think with some room gain these two subs for you are going to pound like crazy. I had a guy pm me from Avsforum and say these sounded better than his 1k $ tc sounds subs. I agree these were one heck of deal. I wish I would of bought 8 more.

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14 hours ago, Rdmarsiii said:

I may have missed it, but are there any graphs of what these things will be capable of in the DIYSG enclosure you have?  I was only able to ****** one of them when they sold out (don't blame me lol) so I'll only have one to play with.  I can't decide if I want to go vented or sealed.  Thanks

 

David

Congrats!  Great to hear you got one and are doing a build.  

 

I posted some graphs right above your post, but they require clicking on the link as REW doesn't have great output options for graphs.

I think EEG then posted some screenshots which will show you the same thing.


The only thing I did differently was model them using the amount of boost at 20hz that maxes the excursion and thereby provides the most low end bass.  

 

EEG and I are looking to achieve the same thing but have different current needs.  His room is unbelievable -- I just saw the pictures and am picking up my jaw from the ground right now.   He has 4 massive ported subs behind his screen, giving him all the bass he needs.  The 4 Legacy subs were put into sealed boxes to give him a special nearfield experience...where he can feel for example, gunshots as a tactile response beyond just hearing them.  Sealed is smaller and this driver really allows for a smaller box is desired.

 

In my case, I have 2 great ported subs but want more.  I may use them as nearfield, but will most likely try the 4 corners approach in my room with a sub in each one.  I also wanted to be able to use the 2 in a separate room should the need/desire come up....so I wanted ported for the maximum possible output.

 

My 2c is this -- it is very hard and rare to find a high end driver that will go very low - well below 20hz that can be put in a ported box as small as 4cft.  Most, like my 18" UMaxes, want an 8cft box or larger, which takes up huge space.  These at 4cft will be a really nice size, I believe around 18" w x 23 h x 24d.

 

The sealed can be made even smaller, which is nice for this driver.  Ask any questions you like, between me eeg and others I'm sure we can help point you the right way.  

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Call me crazy EEG but I swear last night I looked at your post showing the graphs and right after them were pictures of your theater.  If that was your theater and you had posted pictures, please put them back. It was one of the most impressive theaters I've ever seen.  I could also just be crazy, but I swear I saw pics in this thread....

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14 hours ago, derrickdj1 said:

Mike has an incredible setup.  As far as getting three seats to be the same: it's very, very hard.  My goal would just be to get everyone a good movie experience and get things reasonably close.  Those peaks and dips will go un-noticed in a movie by the people in the other seats.  Action scenes happen so fast.

 

Rob, at this point, your HT is just awsome with a ton of fire power that you can only enjoy when the wife is gone, lol.  Bass clarity, great dialogue are the things that put any HT over the top, IMHO.  To many times I hear people repeat I can't hear clearly what is being said on the screen.  They blame the speakers and it is the setup, room and overall blending/integration that is the culprit.

 

When I first setup the room and got the 2 big subs, I tested every single wall position in the room - every one.  They are saved and in a file showing positions 1-21 or something like that.  Using those, I could "guesstimate" the response by choosing any 2 positions and then seeing how the graphs come out.  Once I narrowed it down to the couple of spots that seemed to work best together, I went through the long process of testing them all.  Once I found the best ones, I then went an extra step and tried moving them into the room itself, off the walls, in order to see if the response improved.  One is now about 4 feet behind the left seat, the other is about 9 feet in front of the right seat.  

 

It was really an experiment more than anything, a quest to see how good it could sound.  I am confident it's as good as I can do with 2 subs.  With 4....new ballgame :)

 

The best thing about my setup is the wife has taken to it.  She realized how good some movies can sound and has been positive about it, actually.  At times, there's a request to turn it down, but generally I listen around -20ish anyway.

 

It may sound silly, but having spent all my life with low-end equipment, you train your brain not to turn things up too loud because you know they'll sound bad.  Even now, I turn it up and almost cringe thinking something in the system will break.  It's a long process to deprogram from the days of Bose :)  

 

The best thing I can do in order to get past that is visit other people's setups, like yours D.  Listen at -10 or better in your setup, and suddenly -20 sounds quiet!

The funniest thing about our GTG was the fact that with those giant subs, placement is no longer an issue because you only have a few spots left :):)

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Call me crazy EEG but I swear last night I looked at your post showing the graphs and right after them were pictures of your theater.  If that was your theater and you had posted pictures, please put them back. It was one of the most impressive theaters I've ever seen.  I could also just be crazy, but I swear I saw pics in this thread....

You seen them I posted them and then I thought wait this isn't my thread and felt bad then deleted them. Here they are.

9e4c1a8c0fc9a95b5e2678edcb07a4b7.jpgeaad975946c221b049f5dd9052718b06.jpg396c8bb5712e6c5b399c2295ad4246ae.jpg5c1b8231efdf18b86ffee65a8be8ba83.png

Here's a close up of the night sky mural on the ceiling with black lights.

3a296fe428b4724d7515774cb13e2ed1.jpg8b8f8d4602d381ea2304ebc3203a9762.jpg

The room is 7.4.8 Atmos set up

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Those massive Stonehammer subs had my pant legs movin' and I was back at 20 ft.  Mike has a powerful array that will hit the chairs full force.  The operate like a single sub and the rectangular room  keeps the focus on the audience.  For my odd shaped room, a distributed system works best.

ABCEndFireFigure4.jpg

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22 minutes ago, eng-399 said:

The room is 7.4.8 Atmos set up

 

Adequate.  :rolleyes:

+++

You are new to posting here, and I appreciate your sensitivity to not wanting to thread crap on somebody else's subject.

 

That being said, I think most people here like seeing pics of various setups, so you are perfectly within forum etiquette with your HT pics.  B)

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He posts a picture of the Playmate of the Year :emotion-19:, then takes it down :emotion-50:...politely :unsure2:.  

 

I completely agree WVU that was very cool of you EEG.  As I grow older, it's also a nice test.  Heck it could have been a movie scene where the main character starts thinking he's going nuts.  I swear I saw those pictures....

 

As for the theater.  OMG.  There's so much there to discuss I hardly no where to start.

My question for now is - about 4 pictures down, behind the projector up at the top of the back wall, between the surrounds is what exactly?  Is that a treatment?  

Your theater is truly beyond words.  Yes, you achieved Home Theater Nirvana, at least visually.

 

 

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3 hours ago, RoboKlipsch said:

Congrats!  Great to hear you got one and are doing a build.  

 

I posted some graphs right above your post, but they require clicking on the link as REW doesn't have great output options for graphs.

I think EEG then posted some screenshots which will show you the same thing.


The only thing I did differently was model them using the amount of boost at 20hz that maxes the excursion and thereby provides the most low end bass.  

 

EEG and I are looking to achieve the same thing but have different current needs.  His room is unbelievable -- I just saw the pictures and am picking up my jaw from the ground right now.   He has 4 massive ported subs behind his screen, giving him all the bass he needs.  The 4 Legacy subs were put into sealed boxes to give him a special nearfield experience...where he can feel for example, gunshots as a tactile response beyond just hearing them.  Sealed is smaller and this driver really allows for a smaller box is desired.

 

In my case, I have 2 great ported subs but want more.  I may use them as nearfield, but will most likely try the 4 corners approach in my room with a sub in each one.  I also wanted to be able to use the 2 in a separate room should the need/desire come up....so I wanted ported for the maximum possible output.

 

My 2c is this -- it is very hard and rare to find a high end driver that will go very low - well below 20hz that can be put in a ported box as small as 4cft.  Most, like my 18" UMaxes, want an 8cft box or larger, which takes up huge space.  These at 4cft will be a really nice size, I believe around 18" w x 23 h x 24d.

 

The sealed can be made even smaller, which is nice for this driver.  Ask any questions you like, between me eeg and others I'm sure we can help point you the right way.  

Thank you for the kind words!!  I was thinking about building this for a secondary setup to help the lower end of the Palladiums.  I do have a couple of Stereo Integrity DS4's (one of which is defective and Nick refuses to replace), I just couldn't pass up the deal on the Legacy.  I don't need ultra high output out of it, just something to supplement.  I bought the Inuke3000dsp for it, just haven't decided which direction I want to go with the enclosure.  I'd love to build a curved enclosure, but I believe that's beyond my ability.  Both of you guys' theaters are absolutely incredible!!!

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The Legacy driver uses a 4+4 set of coils, so you can parallel them to a 2ohm load on the INUKE and get 1000 watts RMS.  So you only need one channel to max the driver and have a channel to spare.  

 

As for the DS4 that sucks.  Maybe you could replace with something else, maybe the Ultimax 18?

 

I look at the design this way.  Sealed is smaller.  Sealed is somewhat dependent upon the room it's in.  If in a small room, the room gain can likely make up for any difference from a ported sub and possibly even dig lower.  In a larger room you want ported imo.  If you might ever move it to a large(r) room, you may want ported as you may need the additional output.  

 

EEG has already built and tested his sealed subs, and loves them, said they performed amazingly and he wishes he had bought more.  So with that review, I can't see you going wrong most likely either way.  The ported version should have even more low end.  If your DS4s are in sealed cabinets like the 4cft from DIYSG, then you might consider keeping things consistent in case you ever mix them up or put them all together.   

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Update:  It's been around a week now since I began the final spray coats of lacquer, 4 per day over 3 days.  I'm trying to be patient, give it a few more days to gas off and be hardened as much as possible before sanding and polishing.  A few more days can only help the results.  I expect it to be complete this weekend, and then some setup and testing to see what the results are.

 

I added a few more shots.  The first shot repeats from before, showing the surface of one cabinet immediately after a coat of lacquer while it's still wet.  The third picture then shows the same cabinet a week later.  I'm not sure how much is visible in the pictures but looking at them in person you can clearly see that they have become clearer and more glasslike.  The second shot is also from a week after shooting the lacquer.    

Ported Sub Build Pic59.jpg

Ported Sub Build Pic64.jpg

Ported Sub Build Pic63.jpg

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On 9/19/2016 at 8:19 AM, CECAA850 said:

I've always thought that terminal cups look better than bare terminals.  Just be sure they're rated for the proper wattage.

 

Have you thought about neutrik connectors?  They'd look good on there and you'd never have to worry about them coming loose.  I've used them on several builds.  No matter what one you decide on, be sure you have a good seal.

CEC, I have sub cables with neutrix connectors from the amp to banana plugs on the other end.

 

Picture of the terminal I have is below.  I see the banana plug connector and the screw cap for wiring it without a plug.

Then the bolt shaft, then a bolt, a wiring terminal (?), another bolt.

 

I know the banana plug goes outside the box, but how exactly do I attach the wiring and secure the terminal?

 

Thank you in advance! 

Ported Sub Build Pic65.jpg

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Normally you hook your wire up to a female spade connector and slide it on to the tab that sticks out the side.

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