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RoboKlipsch

Roboklipsch's DIYSG 4cft ported build using Legacy EF 15" Driver

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Drill your hole, insert the terminal then use the first nut to secure it to the box.  The male spade connector goes on next then the last nut.  Hold a wrench on the nut closest to the box and you can use a deep socket on the other one.

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Update:

 

The smell from the lacquer is gone. 

 

On to wet sanding.  

 

800 grit...takes about 1 quart of water with a drop of dish soap and 1 hour to do both cabinets.

1200 grit.

1500 grit.

2000 grit.

2500 grit.

3000 grit.  

 

6 hours of hand sanding.  LOL CEC says he's never seen anybody do just one build.  If I am smart enough to re-read my own thread I may be the first :)

 

Polishing and Buffing is the final step, but I don't want that done until everything else is ready.

 

Brought the enclosures into the basement, set them on top of an extra carpet that I don't care about but is in decent condition.

Turn them on their backs, cutouts face up.  

 

Drop in one driver....fits, but isn't flush.

Remove the driver, 

 

60 grit sandpaper....20 minutes of sanding to get the inner baffle to be perfectly flush, and a bit more sanding as I believe the cutout may have been .125" too small.  Yeah, it matters :angry2:

 

Driver fits flush.  

Drill the pilot holes.   Absolutely terrifying.  Never done the drilling before, put way too many hours in to screw this up!

Some are close to the edge...I don't think too close, but close enough.

Drill the full size holes.

Q-tip of gorilla glue (handy) onto the portion outside the threads around the attaching spikes and flat plate.

Gentle drill use to pull t-nuts in part way - not strong enough, and I don't want to use a full power drill.

Grabbed a socket set with extension, hand cranked them in.

 

Gently loosen, pull the bolt/washer combo off, repeat.

 

Same exact process for the other sub - baffle needed sanding, insert T-nuts.  

Have to emphasize how stressful it was thinking about this process over the last few weeks...will the driver fit right?  Will the t-nuts go in?  

 

T-nuts are all in, glue is drying.

 

Process is so tiring!  Final steps left - polish both cabinets with Meguiar's Swirl Remover, then with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish.

Drill and wire the terminals, wire the driver, drop in the driver and bolts.

 

And that should be it :emotion-21:

 

Any problem with me wiring up the sub and testing it outside the box at low volume just to be sure it works properly?  Or is that overkill?

 

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7 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

Drill your hole, insert the terminal then use the first nut to secure it to the box.  The male spade connector goes on next then the last nut.  Hold a wrench on the nut closest to the box and you can use a deep socket on the other one.

Thank you!  Any special way to attach the wire to the inside part of the terminal?

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Thank you!  Any special way to attach the wire to the inside part of the terminal?




Crimp it down with needle noise pliers so the wire fitting is tight. That's what I do at least.5db469e3aee0f9b81f0980eeb4220926.png

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Solder or crimp.  I'm not a fan of crimp connectors BUT I found a crimper that does an incredible job.  You'll rip the wire in half before the crimp lets go.  Before I found that one I soldered them.

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Here's a few shots from before they came into the house.  This is the finish after sanding to 3000 grit.

At this sanding level, it is a semi-gloss finish.  I took the angle shot to show the fine scratches still in the finish.

You wouldn't see these from most angles.  Those are the scratches to be polished out with the final steps.

Polishing them will take them up to a full gloss finish.  Any and every flaw in the cabs will be easily visible :)

I have ordered a Mahogany touch-up pen from Mohawk already for those purposes.  


Lacquer finishes can be waxed, like a car.  But like a car, need a month or 2, or 3, before they are waxed so that any chemicals left in the finish that need to evaporate can do so easily.  Wax will always cover any scratches up to something your fingernail can grab.  

Ported Sub Build Pic66.jpg

Ported Sub Build Pic68.jpg

Ported Sub Build Pic67.jpg

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3 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

Those look fantastic!  What did you decide to do in the port?

Thank you CEC!  I have not decided on anything yet at this point.  

Once up and running, tweaks like the port and feet will come next.  

You still like black matte paint in the ports as the best choice? 

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14 minutes ago, eng-399 said:


Crimp it down with needle noise pliers so the wire fitting is tight. That's what I do at least.5db469e3aee0f9b81f0980eeb4220926.png

Thanks to you and CEC for the advice.  I apologize for the ignorance.   I have seen this connector before, actually on the RS52s when I had to open them up.  I know sort of what they are -- one side (the metal side?) attaches to a connector like those showing on my terminals.  How do you connect the other side of them?  

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I use a can of black spray paint for my ports.  It is easier to do before the finish is done on the sub.  The spray paint get's far back in the port and it is quick with no cleanup.  I'm lazy, lol.

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Thanks to you and CEC for the advice.  I apologize for the ignorance.   I have seen this connector before, actually on the RS52s when I had to open them up.  I know sort of what they are -- one side (the metal side?) attaches to a connector like those showing on my terminals.  How do you connect the other side of them?  




I built these for a friend first drill out the hole for them.8891f85381fa99241e0e8f94964bd675.png
Next do what was said above in the previous post take a box end wrench and tighten the terminals down use spade connectors to attach to the inside of the box. Then run the wire to the sub.03dd3d3d7f3ac0362adb961a6efd8ba8.pngb6313a96ad31d54a1704f502f83dc70f.png
The other end of the wire goes into a xlr fitting like this into the back of the amp.773d2f63fe5bba3d2b9a488e85a86478.png9d7b77ddfa4a9a186f324cc249ea13e6.png

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I agree with Derrick and use some tape all around the box so no black paint goes on the finish part of the box that you already finished.

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I don't like matte.  The reason matte paint doesn't reflect light is because it's rough and slightly porous.  Those qualities are desirable for not reflecting light but also make it rough to clean dust off of it.  Yes, you'll have dust in the ports.  Use semi gloss.  It's easier to clean and a little more forgiving to apply than gloss.  You can use a roller or spray.

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32 minutes ago, eng-399 said:

I agree with Derrick and use some tape all around the box so no black paint goes on the finish part of the box that you already finished.

Eng how do I attach the wires from the sub to the crimp

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Eng how do I attach the wires from the sub to the crimp

Your options if your going to wire these to your amp having each of these subs going into the back of your amp.48ff57790a16c440014cacd38d884817.png

One wire coming off the back of the sub into the back of the terminal. These are dual 4 ohm subs. 8f7dbd9a24c695ce0c6ef6dfe5d29389.png

So basically if your doing one sub per channel follow the chart I posted which is from the12volt.com.

You will only need one wire from the sub to the terminal if wired like that.

Mike

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I just went through your thread inuke 6k and using one channel on this amp. Sorry about that 5d4fb5a60a3290da0e0c149a78fe1e2f.png

So basically the back of sub box A will see two sets of wires. One from box two and one from your amp. Sorry for the confusion I should of re read from the beginning of this thread again.

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21 minutes ago, eng-399 said:

I just went through your thread inuke 6k and using one channel on this amp. Sorry about that emoji15.png5d4fb5a60a3290da0e0c149a78fe1e2f.png

So basically the back of sub box A will see two sets of wires. One from box two and one from your amp. Sorry for the confusion I should of re read from the beginning of this thread again.

I picked up a NU3000DSP to use for these, at 2Ohms :):)  Love that they can be wired to 2ohms and get big power out of the amp.

I was going to use the NU6000DSP but decided with delays, PEQ and such, one channel each was going to be difficult.  

 

When I take the wires from the sub to the crimp inside the box then, I was just curious how the wire from the sub driver attaches to the crimp...that then attaches to the terminal.  I just wasn't clear what the inside of the crimp looks like, do you just screw in a wire or something or is that where you are saying, crimp it?  I know, I'm slow, but I figured crimping was done on the metal end?  

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On the spade fitting itself the wire gets crimped onto it. The other end of the wire that goes to your amp needs a xlr fitting you can screw that one in to it like the picture I posted a few posts above. But yes crimp the wire in to it.


bfa8f4cde9af8826b3ad0ec5031ce3b7.png25e25e70a7ba4966f641b62676315b37.png

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