aa crossover caps

[Deang]

Nice catch Jason. Forgot about the 6.2uF value - it's somewhat uncommon. 

[Mallette]

7 hours ago, wvu80 said:

Everybody has a budget, and if the OP's budget is a hundred bucks then there is no need to list the $500 and up, caps.

Indeed.  I simply pointed out he only asked for brands and values.  Assuming the answers are to his question and cover the spectrum, the choice of what to pay is his. 

 

Dave

[wvu80]

10 hours ago, Deang said:

$500 for a capacitor, yowza. The most I've ever paid for a 2.2uF is $45.00, and around $160.00 for a 12uF.  It took me forever to save for my network parts.

 

Ha!  Shows you what I know! 

 

So, does anyone have any capacitor questions for me? 

 

My name is Dave, and I live in a cave. 

[jimjimbo]

Yes Dave, I have a few questions....what is the best capacitor?  And, on a related note, what is the best speaker wire?  Do you recommend oak, maple, walnut, or carbon fiber cable risers?  Which cave are you located in?  Thank you.

[Deang]

I know you're just messing around, but please take the time to read Bob Stout's "Capacitor Considerarions". Give special attention to the following:

 

1) How oval polyester capacitors are made, and why they should be avoided (found in Forte, Forte II, Chorus, Chorus II, KLF 10, 20, 30, and some AA filters). 

 

2) What "self healing" means. This is an "attribute" of metalized capacitors. Read this closely. Consider the ramifications of using this capacitor type with a high efficiency loudspeaker. 

 

3)  A $2 metalized capacitor does not sound as good as a $20 film and tin. I simply don't know what to say to someone who can't hear and appreciate the difference. 

 

4) Motor run capacitors work just fine. I never said not to try or use them - in fact - I said the complete opposite. However, there are better alternatives. A metalized polypropylene 60Hz motor run with suppression system is not the same (nor does it sound the same) as a Jensen paper in oil. 

 

5) Bob Crites quit using motor runs because he couldn't find any that impressed him. It wasn't for lack of trying, and he gave up. I pushed Bob in the direction of Jeff Glowacki of Soniccraft, because I knew that Bob valued ESR above all else. 

 

6) The old cans are metalized Mylar in oil. Currently available motor runs are polypropylene in oil. They don't sound the same. What sounds best to me are Jupiter wax paper/film, and Jensen paper in oils. I will not apologize for what I prefer. Get over it. It's my opinion and I'm allowed to have it. 

 

7). No one who knows anything about capacitors would say that a Jensen paper in oil is a motor run in "fancy dress". This is patently false and misleading. 

 

It is not "Snake oil" to pay for a well constructed film and foil. "Snake oil" is proposing that a cheap *** metalized capacitor can get you within a light year of the sound you're looking for.

 

I like the Dayton's. I like them better when charge coupled - but still not as smooth as Jupiters or Jensens. 

[Max2]

Don't do the Daytons only to change them later.

 

The little Audiocap stuck in the middle here isn't to fill the gap.

 

[tube fanatic]

You guys who are into "audiophile grade" caps and other exotica (my views on that have been expressed in the past, so I'm not getting involved!) may find this discussion to be interesting and worthwhile:

 

http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=tubediy&m=248373

 

 

Maynard

[jimjimbo]

3 hours ago, tube fanatic said:

You guys who are into "audiophile grade" caps and other exotica (my views on that have been expressed in the past, so I'm not getting involved!) may find this discussion to be interesting and worthwhile:

 

http://www.audioasylum.com/cgi/vt.mpl?f=tubediy&m=248373

 

 

Maynard

I got through the first 10 or so posts.....ridiculous.

[karlson3]

I can't find two Obbligato 6.8uF motor run caps to parallel - here's what one 6.8uF cap reads on my cheap/cheerful ESR meter:   6.792uF ESR 0.22 ohms so two in parallel should be in the 13.6uF ESR = 0.11 ohm ballpark.   For whatever subjective reasons, I didn't think capping one of my AA networks with those Obbligato oil damped poly caps sounded any better than the old Aerovox "13uF"

 

Here's figures on that old Aeovox 13uF cap from my ~1981 Klipschorn -  15.27uF, ESR = 0.13 ohm, Vloss, 0.5% 

 

Two 6.8uF 160V K73 Russian polyester caps in parallel read 13.91uF ESR=0.07 ohm 

 

A new manufacture blower fan oval steel can 12.5uF 370vac cap off Ebay (has number "12909") which IIRC, sold in 2013 for $7.80 including shipping reads 12.59uF, ESR = 0.06 ohm - so electrically and aesthetically - it is - or was the  king of the Klipschorn/LS caps - ah - inflation has brought it up to $10 each http://www.ebay.com/itm/NIB-Motor-Run-Capacitor-12-5-uf-MFD-370-volt-Fan-Blower-/370040635713?hash=item5628240141:g:PekAAOSw8cNUN-vS

 

For 2uF

Obbligato 2uF oil/poly capacitor 
2036nf   ESR = 0.08 ohm   Vloss = 0.1%

 

KBG 2050nF  ESR = 0.51 ohm Vloss = 0.1%

 

I think two 4uF MBGO in series had a bit less ESR than my single KBG

 

It would be interesting to insert small series resistance with the low ESR caps to hear

if that makes them emulate PIO type

 

I do like those old paper dielectric steel tub KBG and MBGO caps from Russia - they seem neutral enough in my battery biased type A network

 

here's a graph of my Khorn with ~12uF worth of MBGO caps on the squawker and 2uF on the tweeter

 

[Bossman]

Deang, send me some Jupiter wax paper/film, and Jensen paper in oil caps and I will let you know what I think. 

 

Your opinion and input are very much appreciated here.