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Mono Powered Heresy Project Thread


twk123

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2 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Tweeter diaphragm was OK?

It sounded great to me. I am actually surprised how good of shape the components are considering how beat the cab is. You can actually see where the woofer ripped out of the mount and slammed into the bottom of the box. :o  Do you know of any good mod threads of people toning down the mid/tweet with resistors? The is thing really screams in your face and I would like a more pronounced low end considering most of the listening will be in the lower DB range.

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17 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

See how it sounds after you recap it before you mod anything. 

I think that is what I am going to do before anything. I have heard different things about these caps going bad as they are sealed but I need to order other parts from PartsExpress so it would be a good idea. Do you think normal Dayton Audio 5% will do the trick? I think the woofer being loose killed alot of the bass too.

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Just now, twk123 said:

I think that is what I am going to do before anything. I have heard different things about these caps going bad as they are sealed but I need to order other parts from PartsExpress so it would be a good idea. Do you think normal Dayton Audio 5% will do the trick? I think the woofer being loose killed alot of the bass too.

The h.i.e networks are modified aa 

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So I did an initial wet sand with a hand held orbital sander and 120 grit sandpaper. It is cleaning up surprisingly well. I am going to go another pass with 300 grit then some Brasso to polish.

 

Here is my initial test on the first piece.

 

TH Project Teardown 20160922-1.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160922-2.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160922-3.jpg

 

 

Comparing sanded trim to old beat up trim.

TH Project Teardown 20160922-4.jpg

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I made some more progress over the weekend and got the aluminum trim all done. I used an orbital polisher and wet sanded with 120 grit paper then did some hand sanding with 300 grit. It looks really good now and still has some patina to it:

 

TH Project Teardown 20160927-5.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160927-6.jpg

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I am now getting the cab ready to paint. The 30 year old gasket basically turned to a disgusting sticky mess so I had to hit the inside with citrus de-greaser and gave the fiberglass a rubdown as well with a final pass with rubbing alcohol to make sure its clean for the paint. I am going to spray the bottom with rattle can Truck Bed liner and see how it looks on the fiberglass and if I like it I will do the rest of the cab. If not I am probably just going to go with Satin black paint.

 

TH Project Teardown 20160927-2.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160927-3.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160927-4.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160927-1.jpg

 

Here is the boombox I made and finished in the truck bed liner. I really like the look and it reminds me of Duratex. I just want to make sure the texture looks alright on top of the fiberglass weave. The same type Dayton audio chip amp and battery pack that powers this will go into the Heresy. (Yes, I should have routed the box flush or do a better job with the wood putty but this was my first hand built cab)

 

Boombox-1.jpg

 

Boombox-2.jpgBoombox-3.jpg

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Yesterday I got most of the paining done and I am really happy with the results. I sprayed the bottom with truck bed liner for added scratch protection but did not like the look of the texture on top of the fiberglass. Its hard to see in the photos but it looks kind of like lizard skin. So instead I just went with Satin Black enamel and really like how it cleaned up the cab.

 

Here is the cab masked off to spray the bottom:

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-2.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-3.jpg

 

Once the bottom dried I sprayed the grill and rest of the cab with the black paint.

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-5.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-6.jpg

 

Pro tip- The rattle can spray gun is a game changer. The paint flows much smoother and you wont wear out your pointer finger after a few passes:

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-7.jpg

 

Also get one of these. They are about $30 but its money well spent. I can paint all day and not smell a thing. In fact, you forget that paint even smells until you take it off and get nuked with fumes.

 

Image result for 3m paint mask

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-8.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-9.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20160928-10.jpg

 

I am going to route the new motorboard plate today with the duplicator bit and get that painted. The polished trim is going on as well and maybe the driver installation. My Parts Express order with the new caps and chip amp etc is coming this Saturday so I am definitely going to get the soldering iron fired up and hopefully have the project done and rocking by Sunday. I think I am going to get one of those red rider wagons to put it on and walk around town with a Slurpee. B)

 

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A lot more progress over the weekend and the speaker is now completed! I will post final impressions and photos once I get through the last steps.

 

Once the paint dried I re-installed the aluminum trim then took the old motor board woofer plate for the grill and made a copy with my router. The replica was made from a piece of 1/2'' Plywood from Lowes and it made an exact copy.

 

Trim pieces being installed. This is where labeling each piece as you remove it becomes VERY important. This was hand built so the screw holes only align correctly with the correct piece.

TH Project Teardown 20161003-1.jpgTH Project Teardown 20161003-2.jpg

 

I used a edging bit and clamps to replicate the damaged motorboard plate. My router is probably my favorite tool for its all around versatility and the joy of doing a roundover on everything I can. Except plywood, roundover does not work well on plywood.

TH Project Teardown 20161003-3.jpg

TH Project Teardown 20161003-4.jpg

 

If there are any imperfections or damage, make sure to do the router on the clean, undamaged side.

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-5.jpg

 

 

The new plate is completed and the inside rim is painted and drilled.

TH Project Teardown 20161003-6.jpg

 

 

Freshly painted grill is stapled to the board.

TH Project Teardown 20161003-7.jpg

 

Tweeter, Mid-Horn and Woofer are re-installed with weather stripping gasket:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-8.jpg

 

Next up is the crossover and Wye network...

 

 

 

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Now for the fun part. The networks are to be re-capped with Dayton Audio 1% and 5% caps, the Wye Mono Network built and amp installed.

 

Here is the original network:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-9.jpg

 

New vs old caps:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-10.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-11.jpg

 

Getting the wire held to the cap for soldering:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-12.jpg

 

I decided to do one cap at a time so I dont lose track of the network design:

 

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-13.jpg

 

All the new caps have been soldered on.

 

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-14.jpg

 

I like to use lots of hot glue to seal my solders for added protection and corrosion resistance. Its not pretty but its going in the cab anyway:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-15.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-16.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-17.jpg

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Now for the Mono Summing Wye connection which is pretty much just combining the L/R positive leads with resistors to not fry the source device:

 

The network started as 3.5mm to RCA and RCA to 3.5mm converters:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-18.jpg

 

Soldering everything:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-20.jpg

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-19.jpg

 

Building the network:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-23.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Here is the Dayton audio chip amp to be installed. I really like this amp for its small size and volume control:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-21.jpg

 

Output cap was soldered into the wires to the crossover:

TH Project Teardown 20161003-22.jpg

 

After doing some checks with my voltmeter I finally hooked everything up for a bench test. Success!

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-24.jpg

 

Here is how the network, 12V battery pack and amp are to be laid out on the back panel:

 

TH Project Teardown 20161003-25.jpg

 

I will have listening impressions and final photos up soon. This has been one of the most challenging and rewarding projects I have worked on.

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

My apologies for the delay on the final photos. I have been slammed with work the last few weeks. The project is now complete and I am really excited how it turned out.

 

First off listening impressions. Aside from the lack of bass I really consider this thing a portable LaScala with the utmost detail and control even when the little amp is cranked to the max. I am really impressed by the Dayton Audio caps, the old ones made the speaker shriek but now its really reigned in and tight. The box can fill a room with sound at about 25% volume and i really. I found its best to put the speaker in the far part of the room and let it 'breath'. It is definitely missing the lower bass that I enjoy with Hip Hop and Electronic music but considering its portable its not really an issue. Also, if I put it in a corner I can get some decent bass response for more acoustic type music. Taking the speaker outside really lets the horn loaded 'throw' shine and I like to put in on my back porch to do my Kettlebell workouts when the weather is decent. Its cool to be able to have a totally powered Heresy that I can set down wherever I want to enjoy music. I have not yet tested the battery time on a full charge but I think I can get 5-6 hours of music on a middle volume.

 

Here are some final photos:

 

TH Project Final 20161016.jpg

TH Project Final 20161016 02.jpg

TH Project Final 20161016 03.jpg

 

My cat quickly claimed lordship over the speaker once I set it outside. He does not have a sense of humor about these things:

 

TH Project Final 20161016 04.jpg

 

Here is the new back plate. I initially had the 12v power and 3.5mm input flush for a cleaner look but the input kept falling out so I simply pulled the cable out a little and hot glued the hole. Its not pretty but it is much more secure this way. Also. notice the metal volume knob on the bottom:

TH Project Final 20161016 05.jpg

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