derrickdj1 Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 The RF 7 II has a lower XO compared to the original. This should result in a better midrang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honeybadger Posted September 24, 2016 Share Posted September 24, 2016 Not a clue what the mod costs. I will see if I can find the instructions so you can mod the crossovers yourself. Here is what I could find. I think Dean said the most critical part of this mod was to parallel the 10 ohm resistor with the 2 ohm. I believe the resistors need to 10-12 watt. The capacitors: use whatever brand you like, don't mess with the inductors. I believe I used Dayton capacitors. You have to get a little creative to get some of the parts to fit. I have also read dynamat the back of the hf horn. This mod I never did. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 I'd say you need an electronics upgrade. Something in the 50 to 100 watts with a high Class A/Class AB crossover point. Like an Aragon 2004, perhaps a First Watt Amp, or McIntosh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 13 minutes ago, John Albright said: I'd say you need an electronics upgrade. Something in the 50 to 100 watts with a high Class A/Class AB crossover point. Like an Aragon 2004, perhaps a First Watt Amp, or McIntosh. John may be on to something. What preamp are you using to drive that Monster amp? Bill 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marioramos Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 5 hours ago, John Albright said: I'd say you need an electronics upgrade. Something in the 50 to 100 watts with a high Class A/Class AB crossover point. Like an Aragon 2004, perhaps a First Watt Amp, or McIntosh. whats the deal with this class A amp stuff? i hear a lot about it. I do know some amps do class a for the first ten watts of so and then kick in to class A/Ab. I do like that. what would be the benefit of this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marioramos Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 4 hours ago, willland said: John may be on to something. What preamp are you using to drive that Monster amp? Bill I am using which was my last upgrade a parasound Halo P5 stereo pre amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 4 minutes ago, marioramos said: I am using which was my last upgrade a parasound Halo P5 stereo pre amp. Looks like you have the quality department covered with the Halo. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marioramos Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 One thing I did this weekend was switched out power amps for one of my old amps that i had for 16 years because i never heard it with my parasound halo pre and it sounds better then ever. its a sleeper amp the Harman Kardon signature series 1.5 stereo amp. 200.2 and 325x2@4ohms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marioramos Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 It has less power then the monster amp, but its high current and sounds good. its funny just by changing one piece in the chain, bring diffrent sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 On 9/25/2016 at 7:35 PM, marioramos said: whats the deal with this class A amp stuff? i hear a lot about it. I do know some amps do class a for the first ten watts of so and then kick in to class A/Ab. I do like that. what would be the benefit of this. Most amps switch frpm Class A to Class AB around 1 watt. In Class A, the transistors (or tubes) are "on" (conducting current and amplifying) 100% of the time. That generates a lot of waste heat. They often get too hot to touch. In class B, each pair of transistors (or tubes) are "on" 50% of the time and handles only the positive or negative side of the wave, but there is a start up period for each transistor at the crossover from positive to negative that results in distortion. In Class AB, each of the pair of transistors operate on both sides of the signal wave, for a small part of the voltage swing. For instance, maybe the positive transistor operates from -3 volts to +25 volts and the negative transistor runs from +3V to -25V. That eliminates the crossover distortion and, .... as long as the output signal stays under 3V, the amp is running in Class A. 3V is 1.1 watts into 8 ohms. Notice the shape of the waves near "V out", showing each transistor "on" for a bit on the opposite side of the output wave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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