oldred Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 8 hours ago, twk123 said: I will second that on the capacitors. The Dayton Audio ones are an excellent value and the ones I put in my Heresy HIP sound really good. Very smooth and controlled. Plywood delamination is rough and if you filled it it will still be noticeable as the filler wont have the grain that the plywood does and would be very noticeable. I think in your case I would either just leave them be and accept the scars or do as ricktate suggested and veneer them. +1 to that...I've done a lot of fixing. Either you fix and transform them into something completely different. Or try some wood filler Famowood ...Rockler should have it...but still you will have to finish with some airbrushing to match. They are rough. G.E.M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 One thought. You'd have to have a cabinet maker do it. But how about using a router and a 1/4 round bit (terminology? bullnose?) on all the edges. Careful on the front. That would take out the ruined edges and give you clean wood in almost all situations and a unique edge contour..Pretty in its own way. I'm not so sure that patina is worth saving (it seems like just old wood to me) and the router will uncover new wood which will not match the old patina. I'd sand the flat surfaces carefully. I know people get the horrors over the potential issue of sanding though the top veneer but in times past I sanded a lot of poplar ply without going through. Has anyone? A coat of wiping varnish or oil will warm up the color. The end grain on the ply will darken. There is at least one spot where a void in the ply has been filled. The router could eliminate that or open more, but we're not making a violin. A water based varnish might cause less warming and contrast if you like the raw look. WMcD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 3 minutes ago, WMcD said: One thought. You'd have to have a cabinet maker do it. But how about using a router and a 1/4 round bit (terminology? bullnose?) on all the edges. Careful on the front. That would take out the ruined edges and give you clean wood in almost all situations and a unique edge situation.. I'm not so sure that patina is worth saving and the router will uncover new wood which will not match the old patina. I'd sand the flat surfaces carefully. I know people get the horrors over the potential issue of sanding though the top veneer but in times past I sanded a lot of poplar ply without going through. Has anyone? A coat of wiping varnish or oil will warm up the color. The end grain on the ply will darken. There is at least one spot where a void in the ply has been filled. The router could eliminate that or open more, but we're not making a violin. A water based varnish might cause less warming and contrast if you like the raw look. WMcD The only issue is from my experience doing a round over bit on plywood is very risky business. All it takes is one splinter and you have a bad delamination problem on your hands. I learned this first hand making some frames for my acoustic absorbers with some extra 1/2'' plywood. If he is willing to paint them after and can fill it then it would be a cool look though. If someone had success with doing a round over on ply then I would love to hear the technique for future projects. They would look really good with the raw wood rounded over and some corner protectors like these: http://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-c1823n-metal-cabinet-corner-nickel-3-leg--262-152 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Is there veneer on the raw birch? I thought it was just the plywood finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 Here is an idea. Why doesnt the OP fill the damages edges then put some kind of trim or molding around the edges? You could even mask and stain it a different color for a two tone look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 Wow, the guts look pretty clean. Any reason to replace those inductors when I replace the caps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 3 hours ago, oldred said: +1 to that...I've done a lot of fixing. Either you fix and transform them into something completely different. Or try some wood filler Famowood ...Rockler should have it...but still you will have to finish with some airbrushing to match. They are rough. G.E.M. Yeah the more I look at the the more I think I should just enjoy them as-is, with a couple minor upgrades to the internals. Enjoy the patina and performance, kind of like a rat rod? Maybe add some risers though, that would help out in my office. 2 hours ago, WMcD said: One thought. You'd have to have a cabinet maker do it. But how about using a router and a 1/4 round bit (terminology? bullnose?) on all the edges. Careful on the front. That would take out the ruined edges and give you clean wood in almost all situations and a unique edge contour..Pretty in its own way. I'm not so sure that patina is worth saving (it seems like just old wood to me) and the router will uncover new wood which will not match the old patina. I'd sand the flat surfaces carefully. I know people get the horrors over the potential issue of sanding though the top veneer but in times past I sanded a lot of poplar ply without going through. Has anyone? A coat of wiping varnish or oil will warm up the color. The end grain on the ply will darken. There is at least one spot where a void in the ply has been filled. The router could eliminate that or open more, but we're not making a violin. A water based varnish might cause less warming and contrast if you like the raw look. WMcD I think this could look good, but old plywood is cranky and I can see it chipping easily. Would probably need to experiment on some scrap pieces first? 2 hours ago, twk123 said: The only issue is from my experience doing a round over bit on plywood is very risky business. All it takes is one splinter and you have a bad delamination problem on your hands. I learned this first hand making some frames for my acoustic absorbers with some extra 1/2'' plywood. If he is willing to paint them after and can fill it then it would be a cool look though. If someone had success with doing a round over on ply then I would love to hear the technique for future projects. They would look really good with the raw wood rounded over and some corner protectors like these: http://www.parts-express.com/penn-elcom-c1823n-metal-cabinet-corner-nickel-3-leg--262-152 Yeah I like that idea too, but I'd have to get the rounded edges done first 25 minutes ago, twk123 said: Here is an idea. Why doesnt the OP fill the damages edges then put some kind of trim or molding around the edges? You could even mask and stain it a different color for a two tone look. That's an interesting thought...I'll have to think it over a bit. Decisions decisions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 1 hour ago, Shaun K said: Wow, the guts look pretty clean. Any reason to replace those inductors when I replace the caps? The inductors should be fine, I would replace with some good Dayton caps and you will be ready to go. If you need a good little desktop amp I really recommend this little Class D amp. Its ugly but you can take it apart and paint the case and it cleans the look up quite a bit. I have one for my KG 5.5s in my office and my LaScalas and love the clarity and detail of the music. https://www.amazon.com/Seeduck-Class-T-Amplifier-Supply-LP2020A/dp/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1476423483&sr=8-4&keywords=lepai+2020A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldred Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 I never thought about the corner protectors......Goooood Idea. G.E.M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 14, 2016 Author Share Posted October 14, 2016 15 hours ago, twk123 said: The inductors should be fine, I would replace with some good Dayton caps and you will be ready to go. If you need a good little desktop amp I really recommend this little Class D amp. Its ugly but you can take it apart and paint the case and it cleans the look up quite a bit. I have one for my KG 5.5s in my office and my LaScalas and love the clarity and detail of the music. https://www.amazon.com/Seeduck-Class-T-Amplifier-Supply-LP2020A/dp/B01HRR5AWQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1476423483&sr=8-4&keywords=lepai+2020A I had a similar Dayton Class D amp for a couple years, but once I started spending more time in my office I bought this Teac integrated: http://www.teac.com/product/np-h750/ Class A/B 40wpc amplification, phono/usb/aux inputs, Burr/Brown USB DAC, and some network/wifi/ipod stuff that I don't use. They've had enough power to easily drive my CF-2's, my KV-4's, and now these Heresies. Certainly not cheap, but I'm in here 10-14 hours per day so the cost seemed justified 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 Many good suggestions being thrown around! I'll add one more. I picked up a pair for next to nothing a few years ago that looked a little worse than yours. The previous owner said his puppy liked to chew on the corners! I didn't see any teeth marks but makes for a good story. At any rate, one day I decided to remake the cabinets for a little fun. I was able to remove the motor board without any damage and was then able to reuse the front and back leaving only a handful of straight cuts to rebuild the cabinets. Not sure how it could be any easier. I used some plywood I had laying around and just put some clear poly on them when done. They turned out very nice. When I was done I wish I had used nicer plywood to make them look even better. (Well got 3 outa 4 photos to rotate correctly) And yes, redo the caps while you're at it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted October 18, 2016 Author Share Posted October 18, 2016 On 10/15/2016 at 10:33 AM, MookieStl said: Many good suggestions being thrown around! I'll add one more. I picked up a pair for next to nothing a few years ago that looked a little worse than yours. The previous owner said his puppy liked to chew on the corners! I didn't see any teeth marks but makes for a good story. At any rate, one day I decided to remake the cabinets for a little fun. I was able to remove the motor board without any damage and was then able to reuse the front and back leaving only a handful of straight cuts to rebuild the cabinets. Not sure how it could be any easier. I used some plywood I had laying around and just put some clear poly on them when done. They turned out very nice. When I was done I wish I had used nicer plywood to make them look even better. (Well got 3 outa 4 photos to rotate correctly) And yes, redo the caps while you're at it. Funny thing, last week I thought about asking you whether some new cabs could be cnc'd for these, but I held off because I didn't know what I really wanted to do with them. Last night I decided that I'd use one as a center for the Chorus, at least for a while. But if I ended up enjoying the combo then maybe refinishing (or rebuilding) them with the same veneer would be ideal. I'll have the Chorus here and set up by this weekend, and I'll plug in a Heresy to the middle and see how it works out I guess... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-js- Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 Shaun - I'm enjoying 'watching' this project of yours shape up, and trying to soak in all the advice coming your way. one day, I hope to clean up the finish on my H1 FB's. this thread is certainly educational for me. good luck on your project! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 2 hours ago, Shaun K said: Funny thing, last week I thought about asking you whether some new cabs could be cnc'd for these, but I held off because I didn't know what I really wanted to do with them. Last night I decided that I'd use one as a center for the Chorus, at least for a while. But if I ended up enjoying the combo then maybe refinishing (or rebuilding) them with the same veneer would be ideal. I'll have the Chorus here and set up by this weekend, and I'll plug in a Heresy to the middle and see how it works out I guess... Wouldn't even fire up the cnc for this build. Only a table saw. All straight cuts, nothing fancy, butt joints etc. Try one out between the Chorus' and see how you like it, then decide how to finish, you may want it to match the Chorus. Have fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ishwash Posted June 21, 2018 Share Posted June 21, 2018 Haven't digested every post on this thread, just glanced at pics of the damage to the cabinets and decided to post how I did it with a pair of Heresys almost but not quite as bad. They are salvageable, as prob others have pointed out. For corner damage and edge repair, I use two little "form-like" pieces made from foam PVC, a sign-board product, regular PVC sheeting would be fine too. I use a corner form and an edge form, shown in my pic. The edge form can be made longer if you need longer for lengthy edge damage. For repair material, I use either Bondo's wood repair or Minwax's, they are both two-part, epoxy-style wood repair compounds that have to sit overnight for curing. To ready my little form, I cover the interior with a coat of paste wax before I mix up a batch of repair compound. Then I mix a glob of the compound up and trowel whatever I feel is needed to fill the void into the interior of the form. Quickly place it on the area that needs to be fixed and then I holler "HEAL THYSELF"! In a few minutes you can remove the form only (the paste wax allows it to release cleanly from the batch of compound). You can now admire your work. The new corner or edge that you repaired should be ready for sanding the next day. Everything has a drawback or two. The newly fixed places will not take sealer equal to the rest of your cabinet (this is true with any wood repair material though, isn't it)?...maybe other folks have a way of handling this, I don't. With my bad cabintets, I opted to black lacquer them, with black lacquer you don't have to stain, you just start spraying black lacquer onto all surfaces. You could paint them and use shellac, which some can be brushed on, some of the lacquers can be brushed on as well, Deft, I think. Weird! The corner form looks like a cube; its really not a cube, it is a three-piece, three-sided corner; it will fit right onto the corner of your cabinet. A pic of my black-lacquered Super Heresy 1's is also included. There is a fourth, and it looks just like the others, it was simply in another room. Yeah, I threw away the old screw connections for the speakers and used the banana-style. The bad cabinet Heresy's are in the foreground pf the pic. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wuzzzer Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 I'm the proud new owner of these Heresy speakers! They'll be my surrounds to go along with Heresy II fronts and an Academy center. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 1 hour ago, wuzzzer said: I'm the proud new owner of these Heresy speakers! They'll be my surrounds to go along with Heresy II fronts and an Academy center. at least they are in a nicer set of cabs now . happy to see they went to a good home, and now I can dig into my CS1 project with the old cabs. Just need to see if @MookieStl is still willing to cut me some new motorboards... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted February 14, 2019 Share Posted February 14, 2019 16 hours ago, Shaun K said: at least they are in a nicer set of cabs now . happy to see they went to a good home, and now I can dig into my CS1 project with the old cabs. Just need to see if @MookieStl is still willing to cut me some new motorboards... I'm sure he would be willing to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun K Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 On 2/14/2019 at 12:59 PM, MookieStl said: I'm sure he would be willing to. I dunno, I hear he's a bit of a shady character Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MookieStl Posted February 21, 2019 Share Posted February 21, 2019 On 2/21/2019 at 2:40 PM, Shaun K said: I dunno, I hear he's a bit of a shady character Well known for his shadiness. But it's a good kinda shady. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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