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RSW-15 Flat amp or equalized?


efzauner

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Hello

I have a chance to buy an RSW15 with blown amp for real cheap.  It would be simple for me to modify and just drive the sub with an external amp that I already have for my current DIY sub setup. .  Anyone know if the internal plate amp has any sort of equalization to boost low frequency response or is it flat?   Any one know internal driver impedance? 4 or 8 ohm?

 

Thanks

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Here are the specs, but they might not help answer your questions.

https://web.archive.org/web/20120119044457/http://www.klipsch.com/rsw-15-subwoofer

 

I've got to imagine that is a 4 Ohm driver, and it has a passive radiator in the front.  The Bash amp runs to 650 wpc continuous.

 

If it is a sealed enclosure then bass boost is typical.  If ported, no bass boost.

 

What I don't know is if a box with a passive radiator is considered sealed?  Since there are no ports I would suppose it is sealed.

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2 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

The passive driver is actually a port.

yes correct.  The passive radiator acts as a resonator just like the air in the box.  The radiator can be tuned with weight and compliance more than the port can, plus it does not have port noise/port velocity issues.   Some port lenghts also are quite long and difficult to implement, and take up box volume...  So you can  make a better, smaller sub with a Passive Radiator.   And no mouse nests inside! 

 

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So I got the RSW15 and blown amp for cheap.  The motor board was unglued so working to fix that first.  Once that is done I can easily add direct speaker leads and use a 400 watt bridged crown Pro amp I have.  Found schematic for the entire setup and no, there is no mention of any LF equalization. Just the input LPF/Gain stages. The woofer is 6 ohms.  A repair was attempted by replacing an air inductor in the PWM power supply. Not to confident of the knowledge sellers "cousin" that tried to fix it.   The seller admitted he purchased it for C$750, untested and was screwed.  He was just licking his wounds and dumping it.  Will keep you all updated!  

 

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Most commercial subs have some type of DSP in the amp to help tune it and protect it.  May subs will start to drop between 30 and 40 Hz.  Both sealed and vented.  The vented will of course go a bit lower until tune and drop like a rock.  The sealed will drop due to the spring effect of the box fighting lower excursion.  DSP/PEQ allows you to tailor the low end.  In my large room, my subs start drop around 30  Hz even though they are tuned to 15 Hz.  The DSP/PEQ enables me to get flat to around 12 Hz.

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12 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:

Most commercial subs have some type of DSP in the amp to help tune it and protect it.  May subs will start to drop between 30 and 40 Hz.  Both sealed and vented.  The vented will of course go a bit lower until tune and drop like a rock.  The sealed will drop due to the spring effect of the box fighting lower excursion.  DSP/PEQ allows you to tailor the low end.  In my large room, my subs start drop around 30  Hz even though they are tuned to 15 Hz.  The DSP/PEQ enables me to get flat to around 12 Hz.

yep I could have told you that too, and more like ported subs drop at 24db/octave below tuning while sealed drop at 12db/octave and had I not known the answer I probably should not play be playing around with this sort of stuff.  But as I said the RSW15 is not equalized. One would have to test it to determine the PR tuning and also make sure that since the woofer is unloaded below that to make sure the added EQ does not cause the woofer to exceed max excursion and bottom out! Have a great evening! 

 

 

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You are fine getting the sub.  Just look up the specs.  It's probably tuned 18-22 Hz, just guessing.  Set a hpf in the amp of 20 Hz, 18 db slope and you should be fine.  An I Nuke 3000 DSP would be a good match for that sub.    Help set is easy, just ask and it will be given.:D

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not sure of the 20 hz tuning. Most reviews rave about amazing musicality but sharp roll off under 30Hz.  Either way I did good with a 15 inch driver, PR and a pretty cherry box for under US$150 to replace my home made 12 inch 4cuft ugly black monsters. 

 

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Nice score.  The sub will be safe with hpf at 20 Hz.  I think it is tuned to 19 Hz.  All you have to do is pull the amp and disconnect all wires.  Then put the speaker wires on the terminals adn secure the amp back in place.  Then hook it up to an ext. amp.  Leaving the non-fuctional amp in place dose not change box volume or tuning.  Search this thread for amp repair.  There is someone who fixed these amps.

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48 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:

Nice score.  The sub will be safe with hpf at 20 Hz.  I think it is tuned to 19 Hz.  All you have to do is pull the amp and disconnect all wires.  Then put the speaker wires on the terminals adn secure the amp back in place.  Then hook it up to an ext. amp.  Leaving the non-fuctional amp in place dose not change box volume or tuning.  Search this thread for amp repair.  There is someone who fixed these amps.

Thank you Derrick... I think I can manage  ;-)   I just hope the amp is not too non-fuctional... I hate fixing fuct stuff. 

 

Actually, reading over the service manual... The input section does have a 20Hz, 12db/octave HP.  The PA has an overall power limiting circuit plus one specifically  below 23 Hz, this I gather to control the unloaded woofer below PR resonance.   I may try to salvage this board. 

 

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