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jason str

50-60Hz hum in my system

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31 minutes ago, babadono said:

So out of the loudspeaker? Or the amp inside?

I interpreted his answer as the driver.

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36 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

I interpreted his answer as the driver.

Me too.... but

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Me too.... but
Yes it's coming out of the loudspeaker. I tested it with another outlet last night downstairs and still got the same thing. I also noticed the hum was louder with the line input plugged in.

Took some pictures but did not notice much of a deformity in the caps.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

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How old is it? One circuit board I see says 2014? Filter caps should not fail after 3- 4 years. But....

Can you short the line inputs each center pin to its ground? If it still has objectionable hum with shorted inputs it is definitely the sub itself. And probably the filter caps.

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On 8/5/2018 at 12:40 PM, sirjaymz said:

Issue Identified with Klipsch R-112SW, brand new, out of the box, 1 week ago. Stored since I bought brand new.

 

After troubleshooting for 2 days, I have successfully eliminated Klipsch hum, this looks to be due to Klipsch poor manufacturing process.

 

The LINE and the NEUTRAL are REVERSED inside the subwoofer ,on the plate amplifier , connecting your power cord to the power supply through the D-Sub connector. The connection on the D-sub is correct, The WHITE WIRE is NEUTRAL! (N), The BLACK WIRE is LINE (L).

 

However, Klipsch Manufacturing connected the NEUTRAL WHITE WIRE to the (L) input on the amplifier, and also connected the LINE BLACK WIRE to the (N) on plate amplifier. THIS IS INCORRECT. This is REVERSED.

 

I corrected this, NEUTRAL WHITE WIRE to the (N), LINE BLACK WIRE to the (L), guess what, voila, no more hum!!!

 

Use solution at your own risk.

 

IMHO, Klipsch, Fix your manufacturing in China. Do an onsite, take a look. Correct the process. Perform a recall. Get it re

 

I tried this on mine and it worked great for about 1 minute then an internal circuit breaker shut the sub down completely. If I unplug  it and let it sit for a few minutes it will repeat the process. Obviously something is overheating inside and the misconnected wires were done on purpose to hide the flaw.

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It was not the internal circuit breaker. I replaced the 6.3 amp breaker with a 10 amp fuse (the size for a r115sw, according to the pc board) and the issue persists and the fuse is not blown. So...some component in the circuitry is either faulty or incorrectly installed. More to come....I haven't given up yet. Besides, I've voided any warranty and it's just a doorstop at this point. 

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I put the wiring back as it was, white to L1 and black to N, to see if it would still work with the hum as it was before I tried the fix...no, it still cuts off after a minute or so. So I don't recommend this fix unless, like me, you simply cannot accept the hum from a sub that is sold as high end "Reference" audio gear....it most definitely is not that. I bought this junk to supplement my vintage Klipsch Heresys since they only go down to 56hz or so. My next step is to invest in some vintage Klipsch Cornwalls and update them with Bob Crites components. OLD SCHOOL RULES!!

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Came across this thread while looking for something else.....down the rabbit hole once more  :)

 

I have a KSW-150 Sub. Am original owner and have had it for decades(?). A few years back my system developed first a hum and then a buzz problem (solved the hum before the buzz showed up).

 

I did a ground loop check (didn't expect that to be the issue becuz I had changed nothing in the system for over a year before the hum showed up). Since the sub was decades old, I considered it might be the filter caps. However, before buying and replacing the caps (may do that sometime soon anyways, just becuz) my go-to process for this kind of symptom is to first check solder joints. So I pulled out my trusty temp-controlled soldering iron and redid the filter cap connections in my best engineering fashion. Problem solved  :laugh:

 

A few years later the buzz showed up. It seemed to be related to higher levels of low freq (LF). I localized the problem to the sub (again :(  using a scope and signal gen. I first checked the sub speaker itself for physical issues. Nope. Cone movement was free and quiet (the buzz had a kind of "scritching" sound that reminded me of a voice coil going bad). Then I remembered the filter cap issue. Out comes my trusty soldering iron to redo any solder joints in the amp section that even hinted at issues (and many that didn't). Fired up the system and problem was gone (and has been for nearly 5 years.😣

 

Moral of the story....don't assume a familiar sound indicates a familiar problem. The shortest distance between two points is almost always never a straight line :)

 

In closing, for any who may need it, I have pdf copies of both the KSW-100/150/200 and SW12/15 subwoofer service manuals with schematics.  Let me know and I'm happy to email.

 

    Cheers....

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13 minutes ago, stepher said:

Moral of the story....don't assume a familiar sound indicates a familiar problem. The shortest distance between two points is almost always never a straight line :)

Cool, thanks for sharing this. The whole thread I mean but I did not want to quote the whole thing.

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3 hours ago, babadono said:

Cool, thanks for sharing this. The whole thread I mean but I did not want to quote the whole thing.

 

Always happy to help out. Many people have been kind enuf to help me over the years when I've run into (what I feel are) enigmas, so it's always nice to be able to give back to the community.  :)

 

Cheers....

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