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Jubilee advice needed.


RSVRMAN

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I still haven't decided on whether or not I will go with a subwoofer, however it would be nice to have some input on how you active users are going below 20hz. Both the DC One and the Xilica processors have a frequency range of 20-20khz. This is specified by both manufactures on the spec sheets, in addition it will now allow me to plug in a lower number than the 20hz pictured below. So in this circumstance, how does one get the crossover to play below the 20hz if that is the cutoff? 

Crossover low pass.JPG

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I know nothing but for the bass bin dontcha need a LP at 450 and a high pass at say 30(or none)? And for the mid/highs a high pass at 400 and low pass at 20K(or none)?

 The screen shot looks like the opposite. Or I'm thinking upside down and backwards.

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6 minutes ago, babadono said:

I know nothing but for the bass bin dontcha need a LP at 450 and a high pass at say 30(or none)? And for the mid/highs a high pass at 400 and low pass at 20K(or none)?

 The screen shot looks like the opposite. Or I'm thinking upside down and backwards.

Im using the B&C 75 settings. Now you have me looking at it, I didn't think I was backwards.

 

 

 

 

BNC75.JPG

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You can do what I do: hook the subwoofer amplifier(s) to the subwoofer output on the preamp.  Then you get bass management that's controllable from your remote control.  Your preamp can then be programmed to crossover to your sub(s), or to run in parallel based on the "small/large" setting thing.  I've found that crossing at 40 Hz and setting the Jubs and the MEH to "large" works quite well to fill up the room modes (like having multiple subs at least down to 30 Hz).  You can experiment with this. 

 

That way, it also becomes easy to control the LFE mix level from your preamp if you find the LFE is too loud for certain movie special effects (which is also a common complaint and a source of sub failures). 

 

I've never had a reason to switch from this connection scheme.

 

Chris

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So from what I can tell, 1. is the high pass the subwoofer should go with 450 and then the low is 20 hz. So the range is 20-450hz and then the horn(K402) is 3 high pass at 20000 and low to 400, so range is 400-20,000. 

 

When I align the top of the page with the columns, low hi this is what I did. Am I backwards? 

 

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12 minutes ago, Chris A said:

You can do what I do: hook the subwoofer amplifier(s) to the subwoofer output on the preamp.  Then you get bass management that's controllable from your remote control.  Your preamp can then be programmed to crossover to your sub(s), or to run in parallel based on the "small/large" setting thing.  I've found that crossing at 40 Hz and setting the Jubs and the MEH to "large" works quite well to fill up the room modes (like having multiple subs at least down to 30 Hz).  You can experiment with this. 

 

That way, it also becomes easy to control the LFE mix level from your preamp if you find the LFE is too loud for certain movie special effects (which is also a common complaint and a source of sub failures). 

 

I've never had a reason to switch from this connection scheme.

 

Chris

Good point. I would probably raise the low pass on the bass bins if I pursue the subwoofer option. Though preamps really dont have filters, which I thought would be the beneficial point of having the active crossover. 

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Low pass the bass channels at ~450, high pass the compression driver channels at ~400 Hz. 

 

You don't need to low pass the compression drivers or high pass the Jub bass bins.  The subwoofer amplifiers can be run directly off the preamp, bypassing the DC-One.

 

If you want to run the sub(s) through the DC-One, then low pass them at about 40 Hz, and you can decide whether or not you need to high pass the Jub bass bins at 40 Hz by listening to the setup. 

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52 minutes ago, Chris A said:

Low pass the bass channels at ~450, high pass the compression driver channels at ~400 Hz. 

 

You don't need to low pass the compression drivers or high pass the Jub bass bins.  The subwoofer amplifiers can be run directly off the preamp, bypassing the DC-One.

 

If you want to run the sub(s) through the DC-One, then low pass them at about 40 Hz, and you can decide whether or not you need to high pass the Jub bass bins at 40 Hz by listening to the setup. 

Low pass at 450 for the bass bin? I must be upside down with my terminology as I thought low pass was where the cutoff was on the low end and high pass is where the cutoff is on the high end?

 

Ex - if low pass on the bass bin is 20hz and high pass is 450, then the bass bin will play that. Frequency range would then be 20-450hz. 

 

I would assume everything would sound rather muddy if my settings are backwards, but it doesn't. "Scratches head"

 

 

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Low pass = pass all frequencies up to the filter limit "low pass" frequency

High pass = pass all frequencies above the filter limit "high pass" frequency

 

Band pass = pass all frequencies between the high pass on the bottom end and low pass on the top end.

 

There is a 50 Hz overlap in crossover filter frequencies between the bass bin and the compression driver that Roy has provided for the two-way home Jubilee.  That's a subject of much deeper discussion (i.e., that I'll save for later). 

 

Chris

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21 hours ago, Speed said:

No, Not getting my speakers til Friday. I have a EV DX 38 being shipped to me that I bought on Ebay. A little intimidated by the the active Xover, so I will be taking my time...

 

 

Here are the parameters.  I'll try to attach the 'TLX' file.  I don't think it will work.  I can email it.  It allows you to upload the file directly into the unit.

 

Hmmm...  it looks like it uploaded!

 

 

DX-38 settings for Jubilee with K402 & K69.pdf

RACE Jubilee K402 and K69.tlx

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2 hours ago, Coytee said:

looks like it's already posted however...  I'm not sure which tweeter you would have.  This one is for the original K69 (which I realize you don't have)

Yes, it's coming with the K-691 driver...

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1 hour ago, Khornukopia said:

RSVRMAN,  Your crossover settings should probably look like this, with the corresponding matching FR curves displayed in the upper graph.

 

IMG_0549.JPG.c9163d144bf24d7476c79fbf88a0ae66.JPG

 

Disregard the 20Hz and 20000Hz numbers, those are default settings for the THRU setting (no filter).

Thanks, I will be taking a look at it. Mine are wrong as most noted by the graph. I thought I had it all down, but appears I made a mistake. Part of the leaning process.

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Yes, the terminology causes some confusion. Even after a couple years using digital EQs, I still like to remind myself that HI PASS = LOW CUT, anytime I make an adjustment.

When you add the sub-woofer, arrange the channels in the order pictured here (and connect your amps accordingly). As for the 20Hz spec you asked about in an earlier post, I think the number is an industry standard spec on most pro equipment, not a brick wall.

 

IMG_0559.JPG.6234d6b391389ff5deb0458a50573d6c.JPG

 

 

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2 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

Yes, the terminology causes some confusion. Even after a couple years using digital EQs, I still like to remind myself that HI PASS = LOW CUT, anytime I make an adjustment.

When you add the sub-woofer, arrange the channels in the order pictured here (and connect your amps accordingly). As for the 20Hz spec you asked about in an earlier post, I think the number is an industry standard spec on most pro equipment, not a brick wall.

 

IMG_0559.JPG.6234d6b391389ff5deb0458a50573d6c.JPG

 

 

You are spot on with what I was thinking. Even with all the reading and research, until pencil hits paper I have to keep reminding myself of the terminology. Very happy you have a DC-One as well, as others are using other brands. It also appears that I wasn't correctly using the Resp Q function using thru as well. I have edited mine, which is hopefully now correct. I plan to run REW, which I should have done awhile back and it would have quickly pointed out my errors. 

 

Thank you very much for this and the addition if I choose to use a subwoofer. I'm still a long ways away from that decision and further from its big (if) implementation. 

 

Attached updated pic. 

Hopefully correct.JPG

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