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If you can afford to pay for them, buy film and foils - it will sound better. You need four (4) 2uF capacitors.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/audiocap-ppt-theta-20uf-200v-film-foil-capacitor--027-724

 

http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_musicap_speaker.html

 

For a sound that is more like you are accustomed to (closest to a direct replacement) - try these.

 

http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_arizona_blue.html

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15 minutes ago, Peter P. said:

Has anyone actually measured the OEM capacitors to see if their values are out of tolerance after so many years?

 

I say as long as sound is coming out of the respective driver, the capacitors don't need changing.

 

Uh...nooooooot really. When the cap gets more and more out of spec it'll sound pretty lifeless and dull. Like someone shoved a gym sock into the horn throat.

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28 minutes ago, Peter P. said:

Has anyone actually measured the OEM capacitors to see if their values are out of tolerance after so many years?

 

I say as long as sound is coming out of the respective driver, the capacitors don't need changing.

Yes I have, and here's the post, very recently....All of the OEM caps (Aerovox) are way out of spec, and should be changed.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Discgolfer123 said:

Is it ok to mix diff brands of capacitors?

i have seen people use a less expensive cap like a Dayton Audio for the LF, then use more expensive brand names for the HF.  As long as the cap's value is what you want at a certain tolerance I don't see the problem in mixing and matching brands.

 

 

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This discussion points up the need to measure components, not just "eyeball by ear" as some of the cap of the month crowd does. In 40+ years of audio I have had exactly one (1) crossover cap go audibly bad but I knew the rest of its mates were too old as well and did a total recap. 

 

Did a recap of my Corn IIs from 1986 a few years back with WIMA caps in the signal path and a Solen in the woofer shunt. I didn't hear a difference but I have the peace of mind that stable good caps are in there for the rest of my life.

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On January 12, 2017 at 2:37 PM, Deang said:

If you can afford to pay for them, buy film and foils - it will sound better. You need four (4) 2uF capacitors.

 

http://www.parts-express.com/audiocap-ppt-theta-20uf-200v-film-foil-capacitor--027-724

 

http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_musicap_speaker.html

 

For a sound that is more like you are accustomed to (closest to a direct replacement) - try these.

 

http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_arizona_blue.html

Curious these have different volt ratings, I am trying to replace caps in JBL L65a cannot find anywhere what volts they are rated for. Would 100v be enough?

 

Thanks

Tim

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The vintage of caps used in the L65 Jubal should not need replacing.

 

Most modern caps have their tin-spray end-terminations fail.

 

Those JBL caps are a stacked-film type and have hand-soldered Teflon leads, are placed in a sand filled tube (for damping), and then filled with wax.

 

The sound better, and last longer than inexpensive polypropylene types.

 

A quality 100V cap should be fine, 100W/8Ω is only 80V P-P.

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On January 15, 2017 at 3:56 PM, djk said:

The vintage of caps used in the L65 Jubal should not need replacing.

 

Most modern caps have their tin-spray end-terminations fail.

 

Those JBL caps are a stacked-film type and have hand-soldered Teflon leads, are placed in a sand filled tube (for damping), and then filled with wax.

 

The sound better, and last longer than inexpensive polypropylene types.

 

A quality 100V cap should be fine, 100W/8Ω is only 80V P-P.

It appears all but the tweeter where stacked film, having issues with one speaker. New to all of this have always just ordered caps from Crites. Will test all to see if out of spec. Thought while in there might be good to replace all. However if it's not needed even better.

 

thanks

tim

 

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

A lot of what I would have called "noise floor" or background hiss disappeared after replacing the crossovers in my '86 Cornwall 2's with the Crites full boards. Many of the same CD's in my collection played through the same speakers in the same spot sounded as if the equivalent of a cassette players' Dolby NR button had been engaged, but the high end was still there in spades. 

 

Imaging improved as well. Especially compared to my as yet un-recapped '84 Cornwall 1's, once again with the same equipment, in the same spot.

 

I waited far too long to accept that capacitors need replacing after a generation. 

 

 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I recently did some work on a pair heresys from 1976. They had the oil caps. I expected to change them but I took the time to test them for value , leakage and esr.

 I found them to be spot on in all regards. So I left them. 

 The speakers sounded fine, balanced etc. there were some bad corroded connections and loose driver mounting screws. 

 

 I just spoke with the original owner and he says they sound as good as ever. 

 I know certain types of caps good bad , i.e. Most old NPE . I've replaced plenty with poly caps with big improvements. 

 

 But maybe those oil filled cans have a better life expectancy. 

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I've noticed that older heritage crossover caps seem too last longer compared to some of the newer style circuit board crossover caps. I just recently had my 77 khorn crossovers recapped due to a mid-range driver noise. I've had chorus ii's and klf30s that needed to be recapped which are decades newer.

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