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DIY Sub Questions

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Neutrik speakON connections are high power (Amp>speaker) connections used primarily in pro audio, very durable and can be connected and disconnected "hot" without risk of shorting. They actually lock into it's matching female connector and you must release the lock via a small slider on the side to remove. They are available in 2 and 4 pole varieties in 30-50 amp capacities and most female connectors are airtight for use in speakers. They are in short, bullet proof.

 

I am converting all my amp and speaker connections to speakON, which has required the purchase of some special tools to make speakON connections correctly. A #1 Pozidrive screwdriver (NOT phillips) to make connections on the speakON male connector (cable ends) and an open barrel terminal crimp tool and die specific to NLFaston locking connectors to make solder free connections to the female component of the speakON connection (Amp and/or Speaker end).

 

I'm using 3-M DP420 epoxy to fill the holes where the banana plug once resided. When cured I will machine correct size hole for speakON connecter and attachment screw holes.

 

Here are a few pics.

SpeakON (1).zip

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Limited to 2mb per post...

 

I made a Corian insert panel that glued in from each side to securely attach the speakON NL4MPR connection to the speaker.

 

IMG_1858.JPG

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1 hour ago, Ol_mcdonald said:

They are in short, bullet proof.

 

Not to mention, they're made in Liechtenstein!

 

Ol_mcd -  That looks very nice.

 

Seriously,  I'll never use another binding post in any DIY speaker project.  I even convert Klipsch speakers to Speakon/Neutrik connectors.

 

IMG_0418.JPG

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18 hours ago, DizRotus said:

 

Not to mention, they're made in Liechtenstein!

 

Ol_mcd -  That looks very nice.

 

Seriously,  I'll never use another binding post in any DIY speaker project.  I even convert Klipsch speakers to Speakon/Neutrik connectors.

 

IMG_0418.JPG

 

Thanks! Just did mine....bi-amped. Any market for upgrades to speakON?

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I posted a couple of pics on RTM this weekend so I figured I'd post them here since I started this thread awhile ago.  The cabinet was dusty when I took the pics as I didn't want to wipe it off since the third round of paint had only been curing for a few hours.  I will be laying down the first coats of clear next weekend.  I'm using the NLT4MP-BAG terminal (pictured) on the back of my cabinet.  It has the larger 1/4" terminal spades.

 

IMG_20170422_191202_452.thumb.jpg.e82134c1dc1c38a1ee48689ccb9dea3c.jpgIMG_20170422_191216_660.thumb.jpg.1bd4d404c869b9f62cb737d4a2d951cd.jpg51Fps25lF8L.jpg.a839e6fff9cf48a4365f762487ba86fd.jpg

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I thought my build thread was long until I saw this one.  It's looking great though!

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1 hour ago, fuzzydog said:

I thought my build thread was long until I saw this one.  It's looking great though!

 

Yeah, this is a little long.  I'm a first timer at the DIY sub kit for the home. I kept asking questions and the gents graciously kept answering.  They really helped me choose the path I went on.  I'm hoping to be finished in a couple of weeks.  Thanks for the compliments.  I'll post pics when it's done.  More to the point, I want to hear the d*** thing play!  Then I'm going to have questions on the INUKE setup....

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Quick question, how long should I wait before installing the subwoofer after using GE 100% silicone inside the box?  I only used a small amount around the Neutrik terminal, just to make sure it was sealed.  It's about an inch in circumference where I put the silicone.  It will be around 48 hours since I used it in just a few hours from now.  I've read varying wait times, so I figured I'd ask you guys.

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Putting in the subwoofer driver will not affect the adhesive.  Most of the various adhesives are set well after 6 hours and complete in 24 hours.

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4 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:

Putting in the subwoofer driver will not affect the adhesive.  Most of the various adhesives are set well after 6 hours and complete in 24 hours.

He may be asking if the adhesive will affect the driver.  Curing silicone has been known to do that if memory serves me correctly. 

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2 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

He may be asking if the adhesive will affect the driver.  Curing silicone has been known to do that if memory serves me correctly. 

How does it affect the driver?

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2 minutes ago, derrickdj1 said:

How does it affect the driver?

It can deteriorate the surround and corrode metal parts.  I'm not that versed though as I never use it on any of my builds.

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2 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

It can deteriorate the surround and corrode metal parts.  I'm not that versed though as I never use it on any of my builds.

 

Absolutely, cure time varies with temperature and humidity.

 

Give it a good whiff, if it still smells its still curing.

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I can understand it if you are using it to seal the sub in the baffle.  He is talking about a small amount around the Neutrik connection.  I've never used silicone, just the gorilla glue or titebond.  I have not used the neutrik connection and just glued in a speaker terminal cup into the box.

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1 hour ago, derrickdj1 said:

I can understand it if you are using it to seal the sub in the baffle.  He is talking about a small amount around the Neutrik connection.  I've never used silicone, just the gorilla glue or titebond.  I have not used the neutrik connection and just glued in a speaker terminal cup into the box.

 

Best to use gasket tape for sealing such things.

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They have a gasket ring but, I use the gorilla around the inner perimeter of the opening.

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1 hour ago, derrickdj1 said:

They have a gasket ring but, I use the gorilla around the inner perimeter of the opening.

 

That's all was doing.  Providing a little insurance for any air leaks around the gasket.  Well, there was no smell from the silicone so I finished putting the cabinet together.  Now I'm chasing a damn ground hum.  I'm using an ART CleanBoxPro as I thought this was supposed to help eliminate ground loops.  I'm running RCA from receiver to ART, XLR from ART to NU3000DSP.  With receiver off it's quieter but there, with ART off, no noise at all.  Other thing I noticed is that the last time I turned the INuke off the sub popped.  It sounded like someone tapped on the cone with a pencil.  Yeah for me.

 

Here I thought I was going to get to play with the INuke but no I'm chasing a ground loop.  This sucks...

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That was easy, sweeet.  Disconnected the cable wire from the wall, no hum.  On to breaking things in!

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