Tic-Toc Clock

[Woofers and Tweeters]

3 minutes ago, USNRET said:

6 minutes ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

I have done that several times to shim a work-piece on a mill table.  

Coors Light can

Not much chance of a beer can in the shop lol

 

Pop can, stove pipe, shim stock, sometimes it might need 1/4". It just depends on what it takes to hold it true. 

[HDBRbuilder]

11 minutes ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

I chucked a chuck in a chuck to hold it.

Say this 5 times as fast as you can!  "How many chucks could a clockchuck chuck if a clockchuck could chuck clocks?"

[Karsoncookie]

Woofers - Very cool interesting stuff.

 

Obviously you have some machining skill, so that can help.     Marc

[USNRET]

it appears that you won the battle...now to the war

[ZEUS121996]

30 minutes ago, USNRET said:

Interesting how these things roll around thru the forum. I just inherited this and I am looking for a clocksmith.

 

 

Use HDBRbuilders advice and use the 5 pound sledge

 

Mark

[Woofers and Tweeters]

9 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:

Say this 5 times as fast as you can!  "How many chucks could a clockchuck chuck if a clockchuck could chuck clocks?"

 

4 minutes ago, Karsoncookie said:

Woofers - Very cool interesting stuff.

I still have to put id back together 

 

5 minutes ago, Karsoncookie said:

Obviously you have some machining skill, so that can help.     Marc

This is what I have to entertain me. It's a cylinder off of a hit-miss engine...you know, the ones with the large flywheels on each end of the crank. It has a 9-1/8" bore and is ~ 25" long. I am going to bore and sleeve it. I did one for the same person several years ago. It had a 12" bore and I forgot how long the bore is. The one before I ran it in a lathe. This one I'll use my Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill. I'll make the bore / sleeve relationship to where I'll have to heat the cylinder to make the sleeve go. When it cools, it will have grabbed the sleeve and I will have to set it all back up to make a bore to the piston size. I used 2 dial indicators in the cylinder to make it true. This is where the shims come into play...and some judgement as to how egg shaped the warn-out bore is and as you might see, where the shims go is not inline with the indicator so it is tough to call.

Setup can be time consuming because:

The quill has to be centered to the bore

the bore will not be end-to-end inline with the quill...even if the quill is centered on one end, it won't be on the other

after ya think that the shimming is done, there is the side to side and the same problems

have it all lined up and commence to back patting, yay...until the straps to hold it to the table pulls a twist that has to chase back out.  

 

 

 

 

[Karsoncookie]

16 minutes ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

 

I still have to put id back together 

 

This is what I have to entertain me. It's a cylinder off of a hit-miss engine...you know, the ones with the large flywheels on each end of the crank. It has a 9-1/8" bore and is ~ 25" long. I am going to bore and sleeve it. I did one for the same person several years ago. It had a 12" bore and I forgot how long the bore is. The one before I ran it in a lathe. This one I'll use my Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill. I'll make the bore / sleeve relationship to where I'll have to heat the cylinder to make the sleeve go. When it cools, it will have grabbed the sleeve and I will have to set it all back up to make a bore to the piston size. I used 2 dial indicators in the cylinder to make it true. This is where the shims come into play...and some judgement as to how egg shaped the warn-out bore is and as you might see, where the shims go is not inline with the indicator so it is tough to call.

Setup can be time consuming because:

The quill has to be centered to the bore

the bore will not be end-to-end inline with the quill...even if the quill is centered on one end, it won't be on the other

after ya think that the shimming is done, there is the side to side and the same problems

have it all lined up and commence to back patting, yay...until the straps to hold it to the table pulls a twist that has to chase back out.  

 

 

 

 

OMG I'm going to kill myself.

 

UNBELIAVABLE stuff, AND, I have made MANY things in my time, including a 1976 Jeep CJ5 from totally rebuilt totally bare naked bare frame up to a daily driver for 12 years.   Marc

[HDBRbuilder]

I'm rapidly approaching retirement (in about two years, or so!), and I have pretty much everything I need for my woodshop, but am beginning to look around for some machine-shop stuff.  I have noticed that there seems to be a plethora of decent used equipment showing up regularly on the market the past few years as many old machinists are now passing away and their shop equipment is being sold off.  I spent about a decade or so learning and practicing the machine shop skills as a pattern maker, and have a good idea of what I will be wanting...kinda wondering if I should just buy out a shop with those items I really want and sell off the rest, instead of picking and choosing here and there.  Decisions, decisions!

[minermark]

36 minutes ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

 

I still have to put id back together 

 

This is what I have to entertain me. It's a cylinder off of a hit-miss engine...you know, the ones with the large flywheels on each end of the crank. It has a 9-1/8" bore and is ~ 25" long. I am going to bore and sleeve it. I did one for the same person several years ago. It had a 12" bore and I forgot how long the bore is. The one before I ran it in a lathe. This one I'll use my Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill. I'll make the bore / sleeve relationship to where I'll have to heat the cylinder to make the sleeve go. When it cools, it will have grabbed the sleeve and I will have to set it all back up to make a bore to the piston size. I used 2 dial indicators in the cylinder to make it true. This is where the shims come into play...and some judgement as to how egg shaped the warn-out bore is and as you might see, where the shims go is not inline with the indicator so it is tough to call.

Setup can be time consuming because:

The quill has to be centered to the bore

the bore will not be end-to-end inline with the quill...even if the quill is centered on one end, it won't be on the other

after ya think that the shimming is done, there is the side to side and the same problems

have it all lined up and commence to back patting, yay...until the straps to hold it to the table pulls a twist that has to chase back out.  

 

 

 

 

Yeah, know this well, it's called a "Chugger" for farmers out west as well as miners, we run two on the claim.

[minermark]

20 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:

I'm rapidly approaching retirement (in about two years, or so!), and I have pretty much everything I need for my woodshop, but am beginning to look around for some machine-shop stuff.  I have noticed that there seems to be a plethora of decent used equipment showing up regularly on the market the past few years as many old machinists are now passing away and their shop equipment is being sold off.  I spent about a decade or so learning and practicing the machine shop skills as a pattern maker, and have a good idea of what I will be wanting...kinda wondering if I should just buy out a shop with those items I really want and sell off the rest, instead of picking and choosing here and there.  Decisions, decisions!

Buy nothing new ever again, The CL is your friend.

[DizRotus]

Toothpaste?

[USNRET]

Answered an ad in the Dallas Morning News: CNC machinist needed, no experience necessary. I called and got an interview which was 6 hours long. I left at the end without a job because they wouldn't pay what I needed. When asked how much experience I had I told them about 6 hours now. About 2 weeks later they called and offered what I had asked for $10 / hour. Great job, learned a lot but the owner always wanted me to work on his airplane. Cool thing was that the shop was open for employees to use after hours for free. When I left I was in the middle of building a 25 foot diameter electromagnet. New airplane job was 1 hour 1 way closer to the house.

[USNRET]

1 minute ago, DizRotus said:

Toothpaste?

Toilet paper

[MookieStl]

1 hour ago, Woofers and Tweeters said:

 

I still have to put id back together 

 

This is what I have to entertain me. It's a cylinder off of a hit-miss engine...you know, the ones with the large flywheels on each end of the crank. It has a 9-1/8" bore and is ~ 25" long. I am going to bore and sleeve it. I did one for the same person several years ago. It had a 12" bore and I forgot how long the bore is. The one before I ran it in a lathe. This one I'll use my Lucas Horizontal Boring Mill. I'll make the bore / sleeve relationship to where I'll have to heat the cylinder to make the sleeve go. When it cools, it will have grabbed the sleeve and I will have to set it all back up to make a bore to the piston size. I used 2 dial indicators in the cylinder to make it true. This is where the shims come into play...and some judgement as to how egg shaped the warn-out bore is and as you might see, where the shims go is not inline with the indicator so it is tough to call.

Setup can be time consuming because:

The quill has to be centered to the bore

the bore will not be end-to-end inline with the quill...even if the quill is centered on one end, it won't be on the other

after ya think that the shimming is done, there is the side to side and the same problems

have it all lined up and commence to back patting, yay...until the straps to hold it to the table pulls a twist that has to chase back out.  

 

 

 

 

James is one of the very few guys to wonder through my shop and know what every stinkin piece of equipment was. From metal fab to wood shop. He even knew  few that I had forgotten. He might have been stumped on a few sewing machines.

[HDBRbuilder]

29 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

 He might have been stumped on a few sewing machines.

Is that what you use to check your welds??...the fine stitching of a sewing machine for comparison?  My Dad used to say: "Keep practicing until they look like the fine stitching on your jeans, but SMOOTHER and TIGHTER!"

[MookieStl]

52 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:

Is that what you use to check your welds??...the fine stitching of a sewing machine for comparison?  My Dad used to say: "Keep practicing until they look like the fine stitching on your jeans, but SMOOTHER and TIGHTER!"

That is an excellent way to visualize a good weld.

In my shop we fabricate from metal, wood, and fabric. My reference was to real sewing machines in this case.

[Woofers and Tweeters]

4 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said:

I spent about a decade or so learning and practicing the machine shop skills as a pattern maker, and have a good idea of what I will be wanting.

You have the most valuable part(s) in your tool pouch. Learning, experiencing and recognizing has you set up to have the outcome you want. There's not an app for that and it can't be downloaded.  

 

4 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said:

..kinda wondering if I should just buy out a shop with those items I really want and sell off the rest, instead of picking and choosing here and there.  Decisions, decisions!

Either way, you'll have too much of this and not enough of that. A lot of the equipment might be special to what they were doing, so you might not need it...but that's sometimes where the bargains are and you'll get a lot of what you do need. 

What you're touching on is what a lot of people don't think of when they thing that they want a lathe or mill: The support equipment. A mill requires a vise, colettes, chucks, super-spacer/index head, end mills, drill bits chamfering tools, center drills...and that's if they are doing the basic chit. And the measuring tools lol. You're way ahead of many with what most don't have: knowledge and experience.  

[Woofers and Tweeters]

4 hours ago, Karsoncookie said:

OMG I'm going to kill myself.

Don't do that. There's only one of you. 

[Woofers and Tweeters]

4 hours ago, minermark said:

Yeah, know this well, it's called a "Chugger" for farmers out west as well as miners, we run two on the claim.

Here, these are a hobby for engine shows and such. 

[Woofers and Tweeters]

4 hours ago, USNRET said:

Answered an ad in the Dallas Morning News: CNC machinist needed, no experience necessary.

You did the right thing by walking. They are looking for a machine operator, not a machinist. A shop like what MookieStL has needs a machinist. He custom makes everything and that requires someone who can approach every task different than the task before.