Jump to content

Making a Rubber Plinth


thebes

Recommended Posts

Decided to build a rubber plinth for my Technics SP25 in an attempt to match the characteristics  of the factory plinth which used some kind of dense rubber.   A discussion of of weather to proceed or not, along with other considerations can be viewed here:

 

 

I decided to go ahead, found some heavy rubber made from recycled tires, ordered a sheet and spent today building the plinth.  First thing was to lay the rubber flat on the floor since it was curled up from shipping.  Then I laid it out some scrap wood  to cut on, along with needed tools such as razor blades, utility knife, straight edge, measuring tape and some soapy water, which I learned off the internet aids in cutting rubber.

 

 

 

plinth1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I need three panels because the original plinth weight about 20 lbs., which I presume to mean that the original designers favored that approach so I want to replicate it. I need to cut some large holes for the table and my material must not be as dense as the original, because after making two holes, they two panel only weight about 10lbs.  Therefore I have added a third panel which does not have a hole, only a small channel for wires, and this brings the weight up over 20 lbs.

plinth5.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With all the panels in place I test fit the table.  It has screw holes under the platter for attaching screws/or bolts.  I use those white plastic screw-type drywall anchors to attach some screws. I then drill out the arm hole, and add soem more anchors for an armboard.

plinth7-3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I then drill out the arm hole, and add some more anchors for an armboard. I'll be using a Sony PUA-237 arm which has an effectiv length of 222 mm, with a 15 mm overhang so the measuring has to be be pretty exact.

 

plinth8-3.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Al that remains is to mount the headshell and align everything and it's good to go. Since the table I'll placing it on its very level, I was going to just let it lie flat without legs, however the DIN plug for arm is too long, so I've decided to just lay it on top of the original thing wooden plinth for now.  The rubber is to flexible and would sag if I just used feet. 

 

A listening report will be forthcoming after tonight listening session.

plinth9-3.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I spent several hours with the new plinth Friday night. I've been using this particular arm/cart/table combo for several week so I'm pretty  familiar with the sound.

 

First, when tapping the rubber plinth I still get some sound through the speakers, but much, much less than while using the one I made out of Baltic birch.  So not dead silent, but definitely improved damping.

 

Second, I had expected at best a minor improvement in the sound, but was quite surprised, and pleased at the overall improvement of the sound.  The soundstage is a bit deeper, the presentation is more musical and the mids are a bit more magical.  I did not, however, notice much change in the upper register which is a bit harsh at times, but overall I'm quite pleased with the experiment which has yielded real sonic benefits, even though this is a direct drive table and not a belt, idler wheel or suspended table.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It seems (to me) that using drywall screw anchors to fix the tonearm and tone board to the rubber base would leave a little slop/wiggle?

Like Michael mentions, maybe a top layer (mabbe a 1/4" to 3/8" thick) of like mahogany or maple...wood types used for musical instruments.

 

I admire the just do it and see what happens approach.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought about using the Baltic Birch with it, but I think, (sorry no way to actually run graphs) that the rubber did what I wanted.  Aesthetically, I kinda like the rubber.  With  the little bits of white cordage in it, (its basically chopped up tires) it looks pretty cool. Hence the acrylic armboard.

 

I have to hit the rubber pretty hard to get the arm to move even a bit, so it appears to be pretty solidly attached.  This is not the bouncy type of rubber.  Later on I may  run the bolts all the way through to the bottom, and maybe add some wood.  Right now the three panels, plus the base, are not even glued together, but at over 20 lbs weight, it doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

Since this is an experiment it can be conducted in stages with listening in between.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They did the first day or two but now you have to put your nose almost on the rubber to smell anything. I also used the leftover rubber as isolation pads under my cd player and preamp. I was surprised at how quickly the smell went away.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

43 minutes ago, thebes said:

They did the first day or two but now you have to put your nose almost on the rubber to smell anything. I also used the leftover rubber as isolation pads under my cd player and preamp. I was surprised at how quickly the smell went away.

Glad to hear it.  I just had an oil change at my local Pepboys and their waiting room had a few well placed stacks of tires by the seats, very thoughtful of them.   potent rubber, the smell did not dissipate, though they were on sale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...