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Active crossover with single amp


USNRET

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If you just want to EQ your Khorns flat using a single amplifier channel, you can do that using REW and an active crossover if you're willing to install and use REW on your computer and connect to your preamp and a calibration microphone.  However, the midrange and tweeter won't be time aligned.

 

Unfortunately, in order to time align using an active digital crossover you need separate amplifier channels so that one or more channels can be delayed relative to the other amplifier channels to achieve time alignment.  The best that you can do with passive crossovers is to add an all-pass filter on the midrange and tweeter channels, but that is practically limited to less than a full wavelength at the crossover frequency, and you need 1.4 wavelengths of delay on the midrange channel and 30 wavelengths of delay on the tweeter channel (higher frequencies = shorter wavelengths).

 

However, the cost of adding two more stereo amplifiers is peanuts: you need much less than 1/3 the output power of a single amplifier to power Khorns since you're not using attenuation on the midrange and tweeter channels in order to balance them with respect to the bass bin channel. 

 

Basically, you could use chip amplifiers if tri-amping Khorns.  If you have a favorite amplifier that you want to use, I'd recommend using it for the midrange channel.

 

Here are the settings that Greg Oshiro used to tri-amp his Khorns in his living room:

Thus far, I've helped two other members set up their digital crossovers in-room with their Jubilees, and one with his K-402-MEH. It's pretty simple and very fast once the first REW measurement is made.

 

Chris

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I bought the microphone and have a laptop to steal from my daughter. I powered up the REW with mic once (it made sound and I got a display) but frankly it may be just one more thing beyond me even after reading step by step tutorials.

The other issue is that I am sharing the speakers between 2 channel amp and HT amp.

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You can add delay to your tweeter simply by releasing it from the top hat mounting surface inside the top hat--and placing it on top of the top hat centered at the back of the cabinet approximately lined up with the K-55 compression driver below it (using your ears to listen when it is aligned: this occurs within +/-0.25 inches from the actual zero time alignment position). This costs nothing in comparison to a digital crossover and two additional stereo amplifiers--merely a bracket to hold the K-77 tweeter slightly elevated above the top hat in order to allow coverage of the tweeter in the near field close to the floor.  (Marvel and at least one other person did this with his La Scalas/Cornwalls and have reported on the tremendous improvement on the resulting timbre and sound stage.)

 

Of course, your bass bin won't be time aligned with the midrange and tweeter, but the improvement in sound just time aligning the midrange and the tweeter is a great deal of the potential improvement in time alignment.

 

Chris

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You could ask Dennis (djk)...but he once said that there are only two ways to achieve time alignment: physical alignment (i.e., moving the midrange and tweeter drivers backwards) and digital delay.  That's it.  I agree.  Physical alignment has severe practical issues with HF driver coverage angles in-room and placement of drivers more than 1/4 wavelength from each other at their crossover frequency, and with the resulting appearance of the loudspeakers.

 

Digital delay has no downside. 

 

Chris

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I'd try 4-6 inches from the top hat top to the centerline of the K-77s.  A picture of Marvel's La Scala implementation (i.e., with different tweeters):

 

APT_baffle_04.jpg

 

I'd recommend front-mounting the tweeters to avoid the loss of polar coverage that occurs when mounted on the back side of the baffle.

 

You could also orient the K-77s vertically and get a little better horizontal coverage and give a "slimmer" appearance:

 

EV_T350_NewHarnes.jpg

 

T350_Done.jpg

 

 

 

 

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The Beyma CP25 I've found requires some EQ (from the JubScala thread):

 

PEQ, f: 8.8kHz, Q: 12, Gain: -3dB
PEQ, f: 10.8kHz, Q: 4, Gain: 4dB
PEQ, f: 16.8kHz, Q: 4, Gain: 8dB

 

The JBL 2404H predecessor bi-radial tweeter is a bit better, IIRC, but it's discontinued.

 

Jbl_k77.gif

 

 

The Crites CT-125 is a little better, but less sensitive:

 

Freq_rsp.gif

 

 

I haven't looked at the Crites CT-120 ($$), but I'd bet it would sound very good.  I don't know if EQ is needed.

 

k77mde120-smooth_med.jpeg

 

Chris

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Sorry for the crumby photo, but there are the DE-120s hiding behind those horns. I do not have measurements but they sound much better to me than the Ct-125 they replaced. Also moving the tweeters back makes these a totally different speaker, in a very good way!

image.jpg

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I was under the impression that the later klipsch cross overs reversed phase in the HF section to help mimic alignment?

 

I am still looking for a way to bi-amp (tube/class D) without going full digital XO... I have what I would consider two really great amo sections to use, but the unwillingness to buy another technology to accomplish the feat is holding me back. I looked into using a passive to control the gain at the LF section while running the HF section off a tube amp all thru the stock AL-4

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Mike, the driver on my tweeter in the same as Bob's ct125, but with an Eminence horn. I've also tried a Yamaha compression driver with similar results. Never took any measurements though.

 

The Yamaha probably needed eq on the high end.

 

Bruce

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12 hours ago, Schu said:

I was under the impression that the later klipsch cross overs reversed phase in the HF section to help mimic alignment?

I believe that you're referring to "phase alignment" (i.e., multiples of 360 phase alignment at the center crossover frequency).  Klipsch has been doing phase alignment of its crossovers/balancing networks/drivers/horns apparently from the beginning. 

 

The problem is that phase alignment doesn't do much for loudspeaker impulse response and also timbre shift of the loudspeaker due to time misalignments. Once you clean up time alignment of drivers/horns/crossover networks, the sound is crisp and neutral sounding.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/20/2017 at 10:55 AM, Chris A said:

I believe that you're referring to "phase alignment" (i.e., multiples of 360 phase alignment at the center crossover frequency).  Klipsch has been doing phase alignment of its crossovers/balancing networks/drivers/horns apparently from the beginning. 

 

The problem is that phase alignment doesn't do much for loudspeaker impulse response and also timbre shift of the loudspeaker due to time misalignments. Once you clean up time alignment of drivers/horns/crossover networks, the sound is crisp and neutral sounding.

I've done the physical alignment of the tweeter driver with the squawker driver. Chris is correct that the sound is cleaner, crisper, and more neutral. It also seems to pull the sound stage up from the floor just a bit. See the photo Chris posted above (Bruce's La Scalas?) that is basically what I did. 

 

Mark

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On 2/20/2017 at 3:32 PM, Schu said:

what are the differences between "phase" alignment... and a simple physical misalignment? a physical misalignment IS a phase misalignment is it not? or is it a Pulse misalignment?

 

Time alignment and physical alignment are equivalent (i.e., time alignment via moving the drivers to be coincident in time as viewed from their frontal on-axis direction).  You can also achieve time alignment using a digital crossover to delay the driver that is ahead of the other driver(s). 

 

Phase alignment generally implies that you don't have time alignment of drivers, but that if you measure the relative time misalignment of the driver that's further away from you, it will be exactly one or more integer wavelengths behind the leading driver, but only at the center frequency between the two drivers' crossover frequency.  All other frequencies in the interference band between the two (or more) drivers will have relative phase/time alignment errors. 

 

The idea of phase alignment is to hide time alignment errors to the greatest extent possible.

 

Chris

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On 2/19/2017 at 6:02 PM, Chris A said:

I'd try 4-6 inches from the top hat top to the centerline of the K-77s.  A picture of Marvel's La Scala implementation (i.e., with different tweeters):

 

 

 

I'd recommend front-mounting the tweeters to avoid the loss of polar coverage that occurs when mounted on the back side of the baffle.

 

You could also orient the K-77s vertically and get a little better horizontal coverage and give a "slimmer" appearance:

 

EV_T350_NewHarnes.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Long axis vertical only works below 4k Hz.  Poor image, but it is all I have. 

 

 

 

T-35_Disp.jpg

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