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McIntosh 2100 or 2120?


32blownhemi

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I've decided to get an SS McIntosh amp for my La Scala's. I searched our SS site & found the Mac's that everyone recommended. Then searched on-line & found the two following recommended ones that were for sale. A Mc 2100 for $750 & a Mc 2120 for $1150. Which one do you folks recommend? And what should I look for when checking them out? The guy with has the 2100 also has a McIntosh C-28 Pre amp. Is that one a good one?   Thanks!    Bill

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Me personally, it would come down to price and looks at this point.  I love the look of both, but depending where it is being utilized, is what would depend on which one.  Your talking $400.00 more for what, 20 more watts?  If the MC2100 is in great condition and works fine, I would go for it.  Look for rusting/pitting, scratchy pots, dented covers, paint peeling, overheating, etc.   Try to find a way to test it out, these things are pretty bullet proof, if they are broken, more than likely they can be fixed.

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I would replace all the small electrolytics on both amps, and check the ripple voltage on the main filter caps at half power into a dummy load.

 

There are some hard-to-find high-voltage multi-section caps in the 2100.

 

If you do my simple capacitor upgrade in the 2120 (while replacing all the old electrolytics) it will sound better than 99% of all amps, period.

 


 

Caps

  • Posted by djk (M) on August 13, 2007 at 19:10:35

    In Reply to: RE: Sell it to me ! posted by joeychitwood on August 13, 2007 at 16:38:07:

     

MC2125 caps


Add one 47µF across each ±42V rail at the main filter caps

Add a 0.01µF~0.1µF film cap in parallel with C239, 240 (little board on the input jacks, very tight for space)

Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C203, 204 (input coupling cap to impedance buffer)

Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C207, 208 (output coupling cap from impedance buffer)

Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C219, 220 (feedback cap)

Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with Q215, 216 (bias transistor)

Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with C305, 306 (±15V regulator outputs)

Add a 0.1µF film in parallel with D304, 305 (reference diodes for regulators)

I cut off all the push on connectors in the power supply and speaker relay and soldered them direct. I soldered a pair of 0.1µF film across the speaker relay contacts and cleaned the relay contacts with a sheet of paper and applied De-oxit.

I sprayed De-oxit on the RCA jacks, cleaned the input sensitivity selector switch (very important), and the edge connectors for the L and R amp boards.

I removed the 10-32 screws on the main filter caps and used De-oxit before replacing.

Do not move the chassis with the bottom off, the glass could crack. Put it on a small piece of carpet to help turn at different angles.

The 47µF are under a lot of stress, I used 100V caps even though they only run at 42V.

Even though this changes no measurable performance specification, it will change the sound more than you can believe.

Jackhammer bass from an amp with a DF of only 14?
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On 3/17/2017 at 6:39 PM, jimjimbo said:

I would buy something from Terry at Mcintoshaudio.com and not worry about it

 

I second this.  My MA6200 comes from McIntosh Audio: Tom Manley and Terry DeWick are both great guys and I have been entirely satisfied with my purchase.  A refurbished 40 year-old McIntosh still romps and stomps over most contemporary audio gear.

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On 3/18/2017 at 0:13 AM, Dawson's Ridge said:

I believe modern McIntosh amplifiers are the best match for Klipsch speakers but not 30-50 year old units.

You believe, or you know?  Or you think you know?....Have you heard a pair of MC30's?  MC225?  MC240?  Trust me, there is not much better at 5 times the price.

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On 3/17/2017 at 5:51 AM, 32blownhemi said:

McIntosh C-28 Pre amp

I have had it. Continuing complaints about volume pot that is either non-linear (L/R tracking), noisy or dead spots. Terry repaired mine with a 'substitute pot' some 8 years ago as the original was not only un-obtainum but faulty in design as well. That is really the only hard core complaint I have heard about the C-28. Mc made me new glass (as they do for most everything)

 

Summed center output might come in handy for experimentation

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2 minutes ago, USNRET said:

I have had it. Continuing complaints about volume pot that is either non-linear (L/R tracking), noisy or dead spots. Terry repaired mine with a 'substitute pot' some 8 years ago as the original was not only un-obtainum but faulty in design as well. That is really the only hard core complaint I have heard about the C-28. Mc made me new glass (as they do for most everything)

Mike, honestly, the C28 does not have a sterling reputation.  Sorry to say that, but from all of my research, it seems to be the case.  C32, C29 (both of which I have, and I just committed to another C29), and the C34V, in my experience are all terrific.  Sure, you can spend more, but, I don't get it.  I run all of my tube amps with SS preamps, and believe me, it's pretty killer.  The connectivity, tone control, etc, is great, and, for me, the stunning upcharge for tube preamps doesn't even come close to justifying the cost.  

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If I had only 1k to spend on a SS amp I get something in the order of Bryston 3B you can find them for around 600.00 great amp over a 30-year-old SS you have to throw more money at for updates.  By the time your done mind as well save a few more dollars and get a Pass Frist Watt amp. 

 

 

 
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3 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

So, I guess we are in agreement then??....

Is this on or off the record?

Sorry for the drift OP! My -28 worked fine with the exception that it was old and had the volume pot issue. Terry ran it thru his bench, repaired but not restored (while I was waiting mind you) and at that point had no other Mc reference.

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1 minute ago, USNRET said:

 

8 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

So, I guess we are in agreement then??....

Is this on or off the record?

 

Either way...Sure, I get it, without any other reference or experience, impossible to judge.  Each iteration of amps/preamps/integrateds has had their own issues/challenges.  But as is always the case, with enough due diligence and research, and with so much info out there now, you can come to a reasonable decision about what is best (for you).  Making the jump/decision is always interesting, but the Mc gear holds it's value so well, that turning it over is not that big of a deal if you decide you don't like it for some reason.  Over the years I've gravitated toward just a few well respected, well known purveyors of Mc gear, that being Terry at mcintoshaudio.com, Audio Classics, and Yves Beauvais of Vintage Vacuum Audio.  Recently Yves has been my "go to" person, since he does complete restorations, electrical and cosmetic, while maintaining the original circuitry/sonics and vintage cosmetics of the Mcintosh amps.  I have been extraordinarily pleased with everything I've purchased from him.

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