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RC-7 Magnetic Gaskets


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I'm starting on finishing up the restorations on this RC-7 that I purchased last year.  The cross over is getting ready to be sent out, and with the drivers out of the cabinet, I'm going to work on getting the cabinet fixed up.

 

I have a few questions regarding the drivers now that they're out in the open.

 

First...I replaced the K-1083's with new ones back when I first got it.  It didn't occur to me that there were gaskets on the original drivers.  I haven't noticed any issues with any devices near the speaker though.  Is magnetic shielding as big of an issue as it used to be, or does the foam and cabinet provide a decent amount of shielding and that's why I haven't noticed it?

 

Secondly, the gasket is still on the horn.  I'm gonna need to remove it to access the wires when the new crossover is ready.  Is there a special trick to removing this gasket?  Can someone give me some pointers on that?

 

Thanks guys.

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The cabinet and foam provide no shielding.  Unless you use a CRT for viewing, it's really a non issue.

 

The gaskets have a light adhesive that's probably stuck pretty good from being held in place for so long under pressure from the screws.  Any type of adhesive remover should work once the bulk of the gasket is scraped off.

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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:

This is an original RC-7 correct?

Yes it is original, 2001.

Thanks for the tip.

 

When working on it last night, it was close to coming off, there didn't seem to be any adhesive though. It was metal on metal. I just couldn't get the other end up over the other side of the horn. Odd.

 

38 minutes ago, calhockey10 said:

Do you still have the old woofers that you replaced with new ones.  If so are any undented?  I would be interested in one if you were interested in selling them as one of mine got dented from my last move.

I actually swapped them with the woofers from an RF-3. They were pretty dented up, but sonically sound.  So unfortunately no dice there. Cory might be able to track you down one though.

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Just now, IbizaFlame said:

When working on it last night, it was close to coming off, there didn't seem to be any adhesive though. It was metal on metal. I just couldn't get the other end up over the other side of the horn. Odd.

You lost me here.  You're talking about the gasket on the back of the tweeter horn where it seals to the cabinet?

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I can't make out the picture as it's too dark and it's been several years since I've had mine out.  It sounds like you're describing a bucking magnet though.

 

 

EDIT, I think I remember what you're talking about.  Why are you trying to take them off?

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1 minute ago, CECAA850 said:

I can't make out the picture as it's too dark and it's been several years since I've had mine out.  It sounds like you're describing a bucking magnet though.

 

 

EDIT, I think I remember what you're talking about.  Why are you trying to take them off?

I need to remove it to threat the wire back through, from the look of it.  When I removed the wire to remove the crossover, the clasp slammed shut, and because of the cup, I can't get good enough access to get the clasp back open.

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You should be able to reach it from one of the woofer openings.  I never had to take mine off.  If the wires are long enough, just connect them prior to installing the tweeter.  Those are definitely bucking magnets and as I stated, you don't need them unless you have a CRT display.

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Carl,

 

Let's start over here.

 

I have all of the drivers removed.

I have removed the wires and the crossover from the drivers.

What I need to figure out is how to get that bucking magnet cups off.  Is there anything special to it?  That's where I'm having trouble.

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14 minutes ago, IbizaFlame said:

Carl,

 

Let's start over here.

 

I have all of the drivers removed.

I have removed the wires and the crossover from the drivers.

What I need to figure out is how to get that bucking magnet cups off.  Is there anything special to it?  That's where I'm having trouble.

OK, starting over.  I've never heard of someone removing them before so I'm not much help there.  I've also had mine completely apart and back together and never needed to, so again no help.  Wires too short to connect before installation?  Crossover can't be pulled and inserted into the cabinet for more wire length?  Too difficult to add length to the wires?  The drivers were installed into the completed cabinet at the factory.  There's no reason it shouldn't be able to happen again.

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The connectors are spring loaded, you should be able to push down on it to insert the wire without removing the metal cup, I've done it myself several times over the last few days. The metal cup on my driver seems to wobble like it wants to come off and I've pulled on it quite a bit but it won't let go. From what I can see they are just siliconed in place but I don't think they were meant to be removed. Again, you should not have to remove it to plug the wires back in though.

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18 minutes ago, jjptkd said:

The connectors are spring loaded, you should be able to push down on it to insert the wire without removing the metal cup, I've done it myself several times over the last few days. The metal cup on my driver seems to wobble like it wants to come off and I've pulled on it quite a bit but it won't let go. From what I can see they are just siliconed in place but I don't think they were meant to be removed. Again, you should not have to remove it to plug the wires back in though.

I found this too. So you're saying that I just need to push in the wires and they should relock, right?

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