Jump to content
The Klipsch Audio Community
snooka3000

Chorus II project

Recommended Posts

That rip looks rather smalll, should be able to massage it back into place with your fingers.  Use a little glue from the backside just where the paper meets, trying not to get any on the front visible areas, the glue will dry pretty fast & putting some pressure with yoru fingers will hold the paper back in place.  then after thats dry you can apply a piece of thin paper like coffer filter, tracing paper or rolling papers etc about 1" bigger all around the tear, it will seal it up from teh back side very good.  or after the main rip is glued you can use a layer of rtv silicone too.  My main point was to noty use it on the front since it wouldnt look very good.  I had a rip like that in a passive & you can barely see it after the repair. 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Likely a pva type glue such as titebond II after as klipschfancf4 said, massaging it into place, spread on the backside would hold it with out any additional film like paper, forever.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, dtr20 said:

What are you hooking these up to? 

Adcom gtp-400 pre

Adcom gfa-5400

fio dac or Marantz CC4000OSE CD player 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To throw in my $0.02, I do some soldering but decided on new Crites crossovers and the Ti diaphragms on my Chorus II's. It was very easy as it was plug and play. Additionally it allowed me to "back out" the changes easily if I did not like the results. As it turned out Bob's work is spot on and I love the sound of these speakers. So I know I have read a lot about testing and troubleshooting here, which is good advice, but since the Crites upgrades are fantastic and the caps in the old crossover ar beyond their life expectancy I like the idea of just replacing the crossovers and diaphragms.  I did the same thing to my RF3II's last weekend and the results were fantastic for them as well. Go for it as the Chorus II's are totally worth it!

 

P.S. I hope the passive repair goes well but think I would be looking for an intact replacement, that's just me though.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Crossovers were sent to Bob Crites today.  He will be returning along with 3 tweeter diaphragms (Chorus and KLF-C7).  Can wait to get them back!

 

I'm hoping to work on the cabinets this weekend and have them ready to go when everything returns. 

 

dtr20 gave me a great tip to use wool rite dark to soak the grills in a bathtub.  That worked really well!!  Now how to I get badge adhesive off?

IMG_3575.JPG

IMG_3576.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to mess with your thread snooka, but I too just got myself some black Chorus II this past Saturday.  2 different cabinets(both black but 1 has an older tag on the back and the other has the newer tags I've seen on KLF series).  

The cabinets need to be refinished for now but eventually will need new veneer as many spots are coming off and has lots of broken off veneer. I plan on sanding the black down to the natural wood color.  I got a little bit of experience with doing so to my RC-7 that was in really bad shape.  Used Medium Walnut Watco Danish Oil and plan to do the same to the Chorus II. (I'll attach photos.)  I did a pretty poor job of sanding because I was so afraid of burning through the veneer, so I started with 600 grit and moved to stronger grit.  I now know to start at the stronger(going to use 150) and finish with 220 before I do 2-3 coats of Danish Oil and then wet sand on the final coat of Danish Oil with 600 grit.  Hopefully, i get most of the black finish out of the oak grain, because I don't like that dark grain look.

 

Fortunately, i have all working drivers on my pair including Ti diaphragms I've yet to install as I listen to the stock for a week, but I still have a few questions. 

 

1)  1 of my passives was reglued, but still, has a tiny poked hole(and what looks like crayons? Kids?  The reglue looks very obvious and ugly.  Can this be fixed at all to look a little more professional or is it too late for that? (see attached photos)

 

2)  One of my mid horns is missing 10 of the 12 screws.  I went to Home Depot and had no luck finding anywhere near a close match to the original.  Do yall have any recommendations on where I can get the closest match or even get the original?

 

3) The magnets on the cabinets for the grills really bug me the way they are all facing different directions.  Is there a way to get them all neat and aligned?  If not, can i just use a permanent marker to black them out so they don't stand out so much?

 

4) The front 15 inch driver seems fragile to touch so it scares me to do any cleaning.  They're very dusty up close.  Can I take a soft bristle duster attachment on my vacuum to it?

Spoiler

 

IMG_1270.JPG

rc7upgrade.JPG

IMG_1381.JPG

 

 
Not signed in
 
Not signed in

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've found the screws for the mid-range drivers at my local ace hardware store. As far as the passive radiators, simply speakers in Tampa Florida or Midwest speakers in Minnesota (?) can recone the passive for you. I'm awaiting both of my passive radiators from Midwest speakers.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good luck with your project.   I'll let the smart guys give you advice. 

 

Is ok for me to use goo gone on my Chorus II grills?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, dtr20 said:

I've found the screws for the mid-range drivers at my local ace hardware store. As far as the passive radiators, simply speakers in Tampa Florida or Midwest speakers in Minnesota (?) can recone the passive for you. I'm awaiting both of my passive radiators from Midwest speakers.

Good to know, thank you. I'll check out ACE or Lowes.

 

Getting the passive reconed will be with different materials? Will it be obvious that the stock will be different looking from the reconed one?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, Maximus89 said:

 

Getting the passive reconed will be with different materials? Will it be obvious that the stock will be different looking from the reconed one?

I'm interested in this as well.  If I decide to recone, is it best to do both passive subs at once?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just got mine back today. I had to ship them to Midwest speakers. They reconed both of them and shipped them back to me for $150 ish. They look like brand new. If only one passive needs repair, then only do one. They may look different, but who cares, they are in the back. To make faded woofers/passive radiators look like new, you can use duplicolor's vinyl and fabric black spray paint from an auto parts store. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
32 minutes ago, dtr20 said:

To make faded woofers/passive radiators look like new, you can use duplicolor's vinyl and fabric black spray paint from an auto parts store. 

Wow, really?  Very interesting.  Figured anything wet was  a no-no. 

 

Do you have photos of your newly reconed passive?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

very nice!

 

Hey Snooka, I decided to get all the drivers out now to start sanding tomorrow.  My only experience was with a center channel.  If you haven't already done it, removing the 15-inch woofer is tricky, it's very heavy.  I did it while the speaker was standing, but there's got to be a better way because it almost slipped out of my hands.  I imagine it's slightly easier to lay the speaker down to put the woofer in, but i don't know about removing it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find it easier to remove the woofer with the speaker standing, just with an extra set of hands. With the mid-range removed, you can reach in. You could try it with the cabinet laying down, whatever works best for you. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

1 down. 1 to go. Plus the risers. Don't know if I'm just going to refinish them black and see if I like that, otherwise I'd rather leave them without risers until I can find someone to build custom risers(I hate the risers on these models. Way too cheap 80s furniture looking.)

 

IMG_1384.thumb.JPG.9ed828417c0422bd5fb315fe41010fe3.JPG

 

the wood filler i used was too dry and didn't stay on and it dried really white. I'm hoping a walnut paint marker will paint over it to match. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow, that looks like walnut, throw an oil on that and it will look amazing

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, dtr20 said:

Wow, that looks like walnut, throw an oil on that and it will look amazing

Yep! I used Watco Danish Oil in Medium Walnut.

 

Thats only the 2nd coat which I just applied. I'm going to wet sand the next coat and I think I'll stop there.

 

is there anything I can put on after that I can buffer and make it look beautiful smooth satin?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, dtr20 said:

Wow, that looks like walnut, throw an oil on that and it will look amazing

Completely agree.  Watco Rejuvenating Oil

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...