Mighty Favog Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 O.k., insert joke here: So, we're rehabbing our kitchen and I need to remove an old 220v 40A receptical for the old stove that is long gone. But I don't see any screws, pinch points or anything that lends an idea of how to get it off. I just want to run my my new baseboard through there and not around it since it hasn't been used in over 30-years (yes, it's turned off at the service panel). Thx! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted March 26, 2017 Author Share Posted March 26, 2017 O.k., never-mind. But thanks for looking. Found the answer.................hammer. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2point1 Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 I was going to suggest a Sawzall but a hammer was an equally good choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SiliconTi Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Hammer to fit, paint to match... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Dynamite would have done the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cincymat Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 3 hours ago, Mighty Favog said: O.k., never-mind. But thanks for looking. Found the answer.................hammer. I was going to say a BFH, but you solved the problem. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Just think of the trouble you could have gotten into if the wires were still hooked up to it. You know like death, house burn down, etc. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 55 minutes ago, JJkizak said: Just think of the trouble you could have gotten into if the wires were still hooked up to it. You know like death, house burn down, etc. JJK Oh, I made doubly sure that wouldn't happen. I had on insulated gloves for electric work AND turned off the main 200 amp breaker for the whole house. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 16 hours ago, cincymat said: I was going to say a BFH, but you solved the problem. Harley tool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 27, 2017 Moderators Share Posted March 27, 2017 20 hours ago, Mighty Favog said: Found the answer.................hammer. A surprising handy all around tool, and it can install a nail. Usually there is a screw in the front center, but it's fixed now. Cool floors 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 The problem is that old guys can't see the screw. JJK 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I might be putting one of those things in. Question... did the depth of that, added to the depth of the plug not create any issues for your range? Pulled mine out the other day to see what I had behind it (new convection/induction is due to arrive this week) My wires come up through the floor like yours but, my stove is hard wired. Where your outlet is (was!) , I have a box and then that metal/flex pipe with the wires going to the stove. Evidently, it's supposed to have a plug (I personally think hard wired is better since these don't come out very often) If I remove the box, swap it for a plug it's going to make it a thicker object which then might prevent the stove from pushing all the way back. Supposedly the stove installer from Lowe's will do this but since I live 25 miles from his store, I want to make sure I have all the correct parts on hand so he can do it the first time he comes out to visit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 28, 2017 Moderators Share Posted March 28, 2017 2 hours ago, Coytee said: My wires come up through the floor like yours but, my stove is hard wired. Where your outlet is (was!) , I have a box and then that metal/flex pipe with the wires going to the stove. Evidently, it's supposed to have a plug (I personally think hard wired is better since these don't come out very often) If I remove the box, swap it for a plug it's going to make it a thicker object which then might prevent the stove from pushing all the way back. Most stoves these days do not come with a cord. I usually just direct wire. Most stoves have the back bottom 6-10 inches open at the bottom so if there is a receptacle it is under the back of the stove as it slides all the way back. But with your luck you will get the ONE stove that requires a "special" connection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 1 hour ago, Coytee said: Question... did the depth of that, added to the depth of the plug not create any issues for your range? Wish I could answer that. The range was gone long before I moved in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mungkiman Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 19 minutes ago, dtel said: Most stoves these days do not come with a cord. I usually just direct wire. Most stoves have the back bottom 6-10 inches open at the bottom so if there is a receptacle it is under the back of the stove as it slides all the way back. But with your luck you will get the ONE stove that requires a "special" connection. +1 for everything dtel said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 On 3/26/2017 at 6:20 PM, Mighty Favog said: Found the answer.................hammer. Was that a metric hammer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mighty Favog Posted March 28, 2017 Author Share Posted March 28, 2017 6 minutes ago, DizRotus said: Was that a metric hammer? A "Jim Dandy" brand bought in Flint, MI in the late 70's.......so, probably not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 34 minutes ago, Mighty Favog said: so, probably not. But it was at least, cyrogenically treated, no???? you know....for better oomph! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJkizak Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 I used a similar plug/receptacle mounted on my mower to power the 12 volt winch mounted on the small cart to winch 400 pound rocks into the cart. I figured the plug would handle an easy 50 amps. I still had to manhandle the rocks into position. If the rock is too big I use the humongous chain and drag it with the mower. If Cub Cadet saw what I was doing to their RZT-50 mower they would crap their pants. JJK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 28, 2017 Moderators Share Posted March 28, 2017 37 minutes ago, JJkizak said: If Cub Cadet saw what I was doing to their RZT-50 mower they would crap their pants. JJK Yes they would, or come out with a version for 60% higher cost with that feature. Years ago I wrestled some good sized rocks in the back of a trailer with help from a friend. We have NO rocks down here and we were in N Louisiana close to Arkansas and had a chance to get some rocks for the garden. This was years ago , key words, I was younger. When we redone the garden 3 years ago I needed to move them, I could barely roll them into the tractor bucket and couldn't figure out how I got them in the trailer back then. Now I just get tired thinking about moving them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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