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Mighty Favog

Any idea how to remove this thing??

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O.k., insert joke here:

 

So, we're rehabbing our kitchen and I need to remove an old 220v 40A receptical for the old stove that is long gone. But I don't see any screws, pinch points or anything that lends an idea of how to get it off. I just want to run my my new baseboard through there and not around it since it hasn't been used in over 30-years (yes, it's turned off at the service panel).

 

Thx!

20170326_175650.jpg

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Dynamite would have done the trick.  

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3 hours ago, Mighty Favog said:

O.k., never-mind. But thanks for looking.

 

Found the answer.................hammer.

20170326_182519.jpg

I was going to say a BFH, but you solved the problem.

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Just think of the trouble you could have gotten into if the wires were still hooked up to it. You know like death, house burn down, etc.

JJK

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55 minutes ago, JJkizak said:

Just think of the trouble you could have gotten into if the wires were still hooked up to it. You know like death, house burn down, etc.

JJK

 

Oh, I made doubly sure that wouldn't happen. I had on insulated gloves for electric work AND turned off the main 200 amp breaker for the whole house.

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16 hours ago, cincymat said:

I was going to say a BFH, but you solved the problem.

Harley tool!

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20 hours ago, Mighty Favog said:

Found the answer.................hammer.

A surprising handy all around tool, and it can install a nail.

 

Usually there is a screw in the front center, but it's fixed now. :lol:

 

Cool floors

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The problem is that old guys can't see the screw.

JJK

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I might be putting one of those things in.

 

Question...  did the depth of that, added to the depth of the plug not create any issues for your range?

 

Pulled mine out the other day to see what I had behind it (new convection/induction is due to arrive this week)

 

My wires come up through the floor like yours but, my stove is hard wired.  Where your outlet is (was!) , I have a box and then that metal/flex pipe with the wires going to the stove.

 

Evidently, it's supposed to have a plug (I personally think hard wired is better since these don't come out very often)

 

If I remove the box, swap it for a plug it's going to make it a thicker object which then might prevent the stove from pushing all the way back.

 

Supposedly the stove installer from Lowe's will do this but since I live 25 miles from his store, I want to make sure I have all the correct parts on hand so he can do it the first time he comes out to visit!

 

 

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2 hours ago, Coytee said:

My wires come up through the floor like yours but, my stove is hard wired.  Where your outlet is (was!) , I have a box and then that metal/flex pipe with the wires going to the stove.

 

Evidently, it's supposed to have a plug (I personally think hard wired is better since these don't come out very often)

 

If I remove the box, swap it for a plug it's going to make it a thicker object which then might prevent the stove from pushing all the way back.

Most stoves these days do not come with a cord. I usually just direct wire. Most stoves have the back bottom 6-10 inches open at the bottom so if there is a receptacle it is under the back of the stove as it slides all the way back.

 

But with your luck you will get the ONE stove that requires a "special" connection. 

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1 hour ago, Coytee said:

Question...  did the depth of that, added to the depth of the plug not create any issues for your range?

 

 

 

Wish I could answer that. The range was gone long before I moved in.

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19 minutes ago, dtel said:

Most stoves these days do not come with a cord. I usually just direct wire. Most stoves have the back bottom 6-10 inches open at the bottom so if there is a receptacle it is under the back of the stove as it slides all the way back.

 

But with your luck you will get the ONE stove that requires a "special" connection. 

 

+1 for everything dtel said.

 

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On 3/26/2017 at 6:20 PM, Mighty Favog said:

Found the answer.................hammer.

 

Was that a metric hammer?

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6 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

 

Was that a metric hammer?

A "Jim Dandy" brand bought in Flint, MI in the late 70's.......so, probably not.

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34 minutes ago, Mighty Favog said:

so, probably not.

 

But it was at least, cyrogenically treated, no????  you know....for better oomph!

 

 

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I used a similar plug/receptacle mounted on my mower to power the 12 volt winch mounted on the small cart to winch 400 pound rocks into the cart. I figured the plug would handle an easy 50 amps. I still had to manhandle the rocks into position. If the rock is too big I use the humongous chain and drag it with the mower. If Cub Cadet saw what I was doing to their RZT-50 mower they would crap their pants.

JJK

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37 minutes ago, JJkizak said:

If Cub Cadet saw what I was doing to their RZT-50 mower they would crap their pants.

JJK

Yes they would, or come out with a version for 60% higher cost with that feature.

 

Years ago I wrestled some good sized rocks in the back of a trailer with help from a friend. We have NO rocks down here and we were in N Louisiana close to Arkansas and had a chance to get some rocks for the garden. This was years ago , key words, I was younger. When we redone the garden 3 years ago I needed to move them, I could barely roll them into the tractor bucket and couldn't figure out how I got them in the trailer back then. Now I just get tired thinking about moving them.   

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