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Klipsch Belle clone project. Finished and in new house now


avguytx

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So I'm pondering two different finishes for my Belle project. Thanks to Ken, longdrive03, he pointed me to some African mahogany ribbon cut veneer not far from me that I can use which would allow me to use the stock black grill on the top section.  Or, i paint them satin black with lacquer and make a new top section and cover them with cane grill cloth similar to what matthews did.  

 

What do you guys think? 

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Do the veneer!

That particular mahogany would be gorgeous on the belles with the standard black grilles. I can see the "ribbons" in it, compare to my coffee and end tables in the living room that were made in the late 1940s. It doesn't look like my ordinary mahogany here!

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Yeah, there's just something about the look of ribboned Mahogany.  Especially when done right on furniture and especially guitars.  I wish my Ovation Celebrity Deluxe was done in Mahogany instead of the red sunburst look...but my dad bought it for my birthday about 14 years ago so I can't be picky.  ha 

 

Almost has a 3 dimensional look.

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Veneer, you have spent so much time making the perfect belle bass bins. Go the extra mile and use beautiful veneer. When I built my last scala clone cabs I planned ahead and veneered the inside of the top and bottom panels that mate with the doghouse before I attached them and them I veneered the inside of the side panels too before they were attached. It was a big time saver and the seams are perfect. Then all I had to do was the outside and the front edges. Easy. Veneer if taken care of will look better and better over time. 

 

As as a note, I have never been a fan of black speakers. Wood looks like furniture and a work of patience and passion.

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I'm back home with 3 sheets of 4x8 mahogany veneer. I'll try to post a pic of it later but it's rolled up and tied so I don't want to unroll it all just yet. He had sold out of the unbacked raw veneer and this has a backing. He recommended contact cement and said that's what he's mainly used for the last 30 years and has done thousands of sheets of veneer in commercial and residential. I'll tinker with a small piece and see how that works. I've done plenty of Formica in the last 30+ years myself so I'm good with how it works on laminate. I guess we'll see. 

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One sheet of veneer is out to cut a couple of small pieces off. Going to test both methods of adhesion....Titebond II with heat applied and contact cement like was recommended from who I bought it from. Best way to find out which works best and gives best edge with flush trim bit and sanding. 

 

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Your veneer is going to be stunning when you get a finish on it, gorgeous!

 

Not trying to stick my nose in here, I have just done a boatload of veneering in my life. If this is something you are already aware of please forgive me, just trying to help.

 

I have used Titebond II, Contact Cement and Heat-Lok and they all work well. I have settled on Heat-Lok but that is just me. If you are going to use contact cement, place several wood dowels(3/4" or larger work best)between your substrate and veneer. Make sure it is lined up where you want it and start pulling out dowels from the center out as you press your veneer into place. Once CC is stuck it is stuck. This way you will ensure you can move it around into the right spot before the point of no return. Helps lay it down smoothly with no air bubbles also. You can trap air underneath backed veneer that would normally be more forgiving to work out with raw. 

 

If you are going to use cement, the backed veneer is nice because sometimes with raw veneer you may get an adverse interaction between the adhesive off-gasing and your finish of choice. Happens mostly with Lacquer top coat but you never know.

 

Just my .02

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Thanks for that info, jorjen. I've worked with veneer thru the years but it has been awhile and some things change...and I forget. Ha. This veneer seems to have a phenolic backer and not paper which may be why the guy said use contact cement and not wood glue thus my testing. If it's contact cement I use, I've got 30+ years experience with that after all my years of custom car audio installs using formica on subwoofer cabinets, amp racks, kick panels, etc. Yep...its a one shot deal! Then I just have to decide on the finish coat on them and will gladly take opinions from all the experience on this great forum. I want them to look right...even if they are just clones. :)

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Hmm... Hard to tell difference between edges between the two. The contact cement is a shorter work time till ready to flush trim edges versus wood glue but not by much. Both have a good edge on them. I'd probably go with contact cement on attaching them as it's just a matter of pressing them out to secure. Plus having what looks like a phenolic backer usually lends to better adhesion with contact cement.

 

Well, time to get dog houses situated on the bottom panel and pre-drill for the holes to attach the bottoms to dog house. After that, I can veneer the front decorative pieces onto the dog houses, flush trim them, and attach the pieces. 

 

Wood glue piece is on left and contact cement on right. 

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Thanks, Jim.  So far things are coming along quite well.  I was at the point where I had to start veneering certain panels on the doghouse (front and bottom) and then paint the sides of it black satin so it could dry.  I've got the holes pre-drilled on the bottom to attach the doghouse and still have to do it for the top.  But once that is done, it'll start taking more shape.  The top section will be pretty easy overall and the toughest parts will be putting the larger pieces of veneer on.  Which, isn't all that bad, I guess.  I'm going to veneer the bass bins where it's like a Cornwall, so to speak, where the veneer is solid across the top.  I'm kind of going for the La Scala II look in a sense where the op piece and bottom have rubber "hockey pucks" between them.  This way, if I ever decide to do something different on the top, the bass bins aren't affected.

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