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Cornwall cabinet alignment?


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Years ago I remember reading an article in which was discussed the alignment of the Cornwall cabinet. This of course was decades after PWK designed the loudspeaker. I might be in error but I think that it might have been Don Keele who reverse engineered the Cornwall, Don worked for Klipsch for a short while. Does anyone have this information or remember the article and the publication? I know someone who likes the flavor of the Cornwall but who wants more jam and has a set of JBL2226, he wants to build a reflex cabinet for them with the same or similar alignment. Thanks for the help. moray james.

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I just found this in the archives. Does anyone have the mentioned DFH article?

 

While I cannot address your question directly, see the link below and find the Volume 16 Noumber 2 issue of Dope From Hope entitled VENTED BOX BASS SPEAKERS AND HORN TREBLE SYSTEMS.

This DFH shows how PWK's "cut and try" work on the Cornwall in 1957 resulted in a vented cabinet within a few percentage points of the TS B-3 alignment which optimizes low distortion over frequency response. While the difference between a two port and three port Cornwall might be measureable, it probably isn't audible.

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/storage/3/492626/Dope%20From%20Hope.pdf

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You also may want to look into helmholtz resonators such as Frazier used.  Additionally some of the calculators which are purely for box tuning vs woofer modeling.  The larger the port (of course with corresponding cabinet) and "air" weight will get you box tuning based on port size, length, and air flow resistance (aperiodic).  It used to be you tried to tie the box tuning to woofer tuning to drop the resonance to extend low frequency response.  Some alignments drop the box resonance lower to extend the woofer low frequency response.  This helped keep the woofer from unloading at the lowest frequencies and extended response.  All are trade offs as bass reflex designs are.

Masters when tuning a woofer to a box would use multiple boxes or stick with one size and tailor the slot depth with things like a sliding board until proper measured (impedance), sound, and the famed instantaneous pop sound with no overhang as achieved.  

Lots of different tacts vs just pure woofer modeling.  I myself like looking at the box, splitting the difference between extension and woofer resonance if I am trying to push the woofers lower.

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