BlessedPrince Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Hello everyone, I need some help. I power the rc 3 with a yamaha S 201 stereo receiver. Im running this speaker alone. I use it for work(loud shop). I've been using it for a while and today it just shut off, the receiver . Thing is that it will power back up only at very low volumes. If i turn it up, the receiver shuts down. When i turn it back on it displays "Check SP Wires". So to double check the issue I brought it home to hooked it up to my A-1050 AV Receiver and it played to moderate volume and then receiver shut off again. The speaker has bi amp capability so it has for connections. I don't have the original bridges so i purchased some jumper cables, this was the hook up in the shop.. at home I tried the bi wires I have hooked up to the RP 280's and it did the same thing. I tried to rule put everything possible and it seems to be the speaker. Speakers sounds in tact when it plays for the short time. Also it played for a while before this happened. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The History Kid Posted May 25, 2017 Share Posted May 25, 2017 Usually that's an issue with the wire itself. Run a fresh speaker wire lead and ensure everything is fastened good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 If it happens with 2 different amps and 2 different sets of wires it's in the speaker itself. If you've been really cranking it, you may have damaged a voice coil. I had a similar issue once where I had the wires over the spider touch each other only when played loudly and driver movement was high. I'd say it's time to open it up and have a look around. See if you detect any burned electrical type smells as well. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 If it happens with 2 different amps and 2 different sets of wires it's in the speaker itself. If you've been really cranking it, you may have damaged a voice coil. I had a similar issue once where I had the wires over the spider touch each other only when played loudly and driver movement was high. I'd say it's time to open it up and have a look around. See if you detect any burned electrical type smells as well.I think you might be right. I'm going to open it up tomorrow. It's rated at 200 watts so I'd figured it could handle some heat. Guess it wore out. I turn it pretty loud. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Usually that's an issue with the wire itself. Run a fresh speaker wire lead and ensure everything is fastened good.I did already. Receiver Still shut off.Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The History Kid Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 21 minutes ago, BlessedPrince said: I think you might be right. I'm going to open it up tomorrow. It's rated at 200 watts so I'd figured it could handle some heat. Guess it wore out. I turn it pretty loud. Incorrect. I'm not sure of the details on some of the speakers labels, but the RC-3 is rated at 100 Watts...maybe 150. The RC-7 is rated at 200. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Pay close attention to the tweeter. That'll be the first driver to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 Incorrect. I'm not sure of the details on some of the speakers labels, but the RC-3 is rated at 100 Watts...maybe 150. The RC-7 is rated at 200. The sticker says 200watts. I did notice this discrepancy when looking at pictures of the same speaker. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 The red cable is a little loose. I think this could be the problem. When it vibrates it loses contact. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 I tighten everything and it still doing the same thing. Not sure where to go from here. Don't want to buy another speaker. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 Unplug the tweeter and secure the loose wires so they don't touch each other or anything else and try it again. Don't worry about what it sounds like. Let me know what happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 3 hours ago, BlessedPrince said: The red cable is a little loose. I think this could be the problem. When it vibrates it loses contact. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk You're not looking for an open you're looking for a short. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 You're not looking for an open you're looking for a short. It played fine til I hit -20db Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 I finally found the culprit! It's the left woofer. I played it while it was disconnected and bam! Didn't turn off. I'm guessing these are discontinued. I guess I'll take my chances on eBay. That's if I can even find it. I purchased this speaker for $75Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 Glad you finally found it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 1 hour ago, BlessedPrince said: I finally found the culprit! It's the left woofer. I played it while it was disconnected and bam! Didn't turn off. I'm guessing these are discontinued. I guess I'll take my chances on eBay. That's if I can even find it. I purchased this speaker for $75 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Try here http://speakerex.wpengine.com/product/klipsch-rs-3-series-i-rs-3-series-ii-6-5-k-1086-s-woofer-120642/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted June 4, 2017 Author Share Posted June 4, 2017 Try herehttp://speakerex.wpengine.com/product/klipsch-rs-3-series-i-rs-3-series-ii-6-5-k-1086-s-woofer-120642/This will work? Has numbers for different models. Woofer looks similar though. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TasDom Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 My bad, that's the RS-3II Not seeing the direct replacement for the RC-3II Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The History Kid Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 The difference should only be in the fact that the RS-3's woofer does not have the magnetic cup on the magnet. I'm verifying this now, but the K-1086 should work... ETA...not sure of the difference...Klipsch had 3 speakers with 6.5" woofers of that variety: the K-1081, the 1085, and the 1086. The 1081's were in the RB-3's, the 85's were in the RC-3, and the 86 in the RS-3. I can't honestly imagine that they're different though. You might call Klipsch directly and ask, or call Speaker Exchange and ask. Here's the specs for the RC-3 II direct from Klipsch: FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 62Hz-20kHz±3dB SENSITIVITY: 97dB @ 1watt/1meter POWER HANDLING: 150 watts maximum continuous (400 watts peak) NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 ohms TWEETER: K-105-KV 1" (2.54cm) Titanium dome compression driver HIGH FREQUENCY HORN: 6" square 90° x 60° Tractrix® Horn HF CROSSOVER: 2100Hz WOOFER: Two K-1085-SV 6.5" (16.51cm) Cerametallic® cone / cast polymer frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlessedPrince Posted June 5, 2017 Author Share Posted June 5, 2017 The difference should only be in the fact that the RS-3's woofer does not have the magnetic cup on the magnet. I'm verifying this now, but the K-1086 should work... ETA...not sure of the difference...Klipsch had 3 speakers with 6.5" woofers of that variety: the K-1081, the 1085, and the 1086. The 1081's were in the RB-3's, the 85's were in the RC-3, and the 86 in the RS-3. I can't honestly imagine that they're different though. You might call Klipsch directly and ask, or call Speaker Exchange and ask. Here's the specs for the RC-3 II direct from Klipsch: FREQUENCY RESPONSE: 62Hz-20kHz±3dB SENSITIVITY: 97dB @ 1watt/1meter POWER HANDLING: 150 watts maximum continuous (400 watts peak) NOMINAL IMPEDANCE: 8 ohms TWEETER: K-105-KV 1" (2.54cm) Titanium dome compression driver HIGH FREQUENCY HORN: 6" square 90° x 60° Tractrix[emoji768] Horn HF CROSSOVER: 2100Hz WOOFER: Two K-1085-SV 6.5" (16.51cm) Cerametallic[emoji768] cone / cast polymer frameThanks. Definitely gonna call when ever I get a chance. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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