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Duratex & Speakon; La Scala, Heresy & TH subs


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The woofer was easily removed through the hole created.  The woofer hole was taped to prevent sawdust from entering the beginning of the horn path.  The horn path to the left of the woofer was stuffed with a rag to keep out sawdust. Any sawdust that went to the right of the opening was easily vacuumed through this opening or the horn mouth.

 

After taking a break in A/C, I'll fashion the plug and mount the Speakon.

 

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2 hours ago, DizRotus said:

 

 

Carl,

 

Depth seems to be an issue to me.  

 

I walk away for a few hours and you get a couple hundred suggestions. It is a great forum.

1) do get yourself an oscillating saw, you'll love it.

2) am I the only one that saw this  comment? They let you off ez

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8 hours ago, MookieStl said:

I walk away for a few hours and you get a couple hundred suggestions. It is a great forum.

1) do get yourself an oscillating saw, you'll love it.

2) am I the only one that saw this  comment? They let you off ez

 

Apparently.  I would have commented had Carl @CECAA850 served me such a lay-up.

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Are you going to use a guide board tacked on to route a straight line for the plug? If not I want to see how you mirror that hole cut on the plug :ph34r:

 

Edit: later photos look more like a straight cut rather than pink'n shears

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Just saw this, sorry its not sooner as it looks like you made a mess. :o

 

My advise would be to run the entire cabinet through the table saw at whatever depth the plywood is and no more to remove only the panel with the saw and then make a new panel with the cutouts you need to service the driver.

 

If you have no table saw it can be done with a guide and circular saw.

 

This will also give you a few shots to properly create a driver access hole and terminal cup cutouts on the new panel. PL the panel back on once you are satisfied with your work, let dry and flush cut the panel with the router and finish as you normally would.

 

Good luck.:emotion-21:

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2 hours ago, jason str said:

Just saw this, sorry its not sooner as it looks like you made a mess. :o

 

My advise would be to run the entire cabinet through the table saw at whatever depth the plywood is and no more to remove only the panel with the saw and then make a new panel with the cutouts you need to service the driver.

 

If you have no table saw it can be done with a guide and circular saw.

 

This will also give you a few shots to properly create a driver access hole and terminal cup cutouts on the new panel. PL the panel back on once you are satisfied with your work, let dry and flush cut the panel with the router and finish as you normally would.

 

Good luck.:emotion-21:

 

Jason-

 

Thank you for your advice.  Wrestling these heavy

cabinets onto my table saw seemed ill-advised.  In any case, without a dado blade, the router would still be needed.  

 

By nailing straight edges edges to the cabinet I was able to use the router to make straight cuts at the two depths needed.  The radiused corners were routed free hand.  The first one turned out OK.  After the Duratex is applied the panel will all but disappear.

 

While I had the band saw out I used it to radius the corners of 5 more panels.  I'll only need three, but prepared extras just in case I have a mishap.  The next three will go more quickly with better results; practice makes nearly perfect.  Time to quit for the day.

 

 

IMG_2077 (Medium).JPG

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30 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

 

Jason-

 

Thank you for your advice.  Wrestling these heavy

cabinets onto my table saw seemed ill-advised.  In any case, without a dado blade, the router would still be needed.  

 

If you mean to cut the panel out a Dado would not be needed. The circular saw was an option as well.

30 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

 

By nailing straight edges edges to the cabinet I was able to use the router to make straight cuts at the two depths needed.  The radiused corners were routed free hand.  The first one turned out OK.  After the Duratex is applied the panel will all but disappear.

 

While I had the band saw out I used it to radius the corners of 5 more panels.  I'll only need three, but prepared extras just in case I have a mishap.  The next three will go more quickly with better results; practice makes nearly perfect.  Time to quit for the day.

 

As long as you are happy with the results and no leaks are present you are good to go.

 

The end result looks OK, good luck with the rest.

 

 

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On 6/11/2017 at 4:17 PM, USNRET said:

Are you going to use a guide board tacked on to route a straight line for the plug? If not I want to see how you mirror that hole cut on the plug :ph34r:

 

Edit: later photos look more like a straight cut rather than pink'n shears

 

Yes.  I should have used guide boards from the beginning, it would have been faster than going back to clean up the pinked cuts. :-)

 

I was more concerned about opening the cabinet to gain access to the woofer without striking the woofer or subjecting it to sawdust.  Using the router to remove all but a paper thin bit of plywood accomplished that.  Cleaning up the opening was then done more easily after the woofer was removed from the danger of sawdust infestation.

 

The next three will go more quickly, now that I know what I'm dealing with and can use guides to cut the openings and the plugs.  Fresh router bits are due tomorrow, so my Father's Day weekend is already planned.

 

FYI, the fifth one I built from scratch was made with a Speakon connector, albeit without an access panel.  It has a Tang Band driver, rather than the much cooler -- IMO -- Anarchy Exodus driver.  I'll only do surgery on that cabinet if it's necessary to get to the TB driver.

 

I was compelled to place a sniped bid on eBay for the new TB driver.  When I "won" the "auction" at $50, I had to make one more.  Scratch build was necessary, due to no more DIY Audio Group flat packs.  IMO, the performance and appearance are indistinguishable from the other four.

 

 

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I would blame wardsweb for telling you not to use a pattern and just free hand the cut. By the time I read his comment, you had already cut and I didn't want to yell stop at that point. I've see some of his work, he can get away with no pattern but I cant cut a straight line without a guide or pattern no matter how hard I try or what tool I use.

I used the Anarchy driver in my two tapped horns because it came in an 8 ohm version and I wanted to run them in parallel and the Tang Bands only came in 4 ohm. I had used the TB several times in the past with good results (mostly in crude boomboxes) but was impressed with the build and sound quality of the Anarchy once I got them in and installed.

TB in a bamboo box:   (sorry cant get it to stop rotating on me)

bamboo.thumb.jpg.48100fd79929db5a04053bbefe3fa3fc.jpg

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3 hours ago, MookieStl said:

I used the Anarchy driver in my two tapped horns because it came in an 8 ohm version and I wanted to run them in parallel

 

My four Anarchy drivers are 8 ohm so I can run two in parallel on each channel so my INuke sees a nominal 4 ohm load.

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