opusk2k9 Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 From ad: Putting my Epic CF-3's up for sale. I am the original owner. They have been in my home theater and I am moving to a new home and have no room. They are finished in cherry and are version 3's so they can be bi-amped. All four are in good condition with only minor scrapes and scratches. I am near Joliet Illinois and may be willing to meet within 100 miles. Asking $400 per pair. Reasonable offers accepted. Email me if interested and thanks for looking! https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/ele/6182713764.html No affiliation. I'm picking up the KV-4, so please don't spoil my deal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBCODD Posted June 19, 2017 Share Posted June 19, 2017 Would never harsh yer gig, Brah..... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opusk2k9 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 I picked up the KV-4 from him. He was very nice. I looked at the CF-3s. They were in good condition with some light surface scratches. He had 2 pair and one was already sold. They are from 1996 and have 2.5" ports. Someone grab them. I was very tempted, but can't justify adding another pair at this time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unclefred Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 An epay pirate in Wash. just listed a pair for $1200. Idiot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opusk2k9 Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 Price down to $400 for the CF-3 v3. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 How can you tell between the 3 versions? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I know there is something with the ports. Is there any other way to know like serial number? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burninator Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I'd be interested if they were closer, glws! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jirachi Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 1 hour ago, dtr20 said: I know there is something with the ports. Is there any other way to know like serial number? Rev.1 – Start of Production in Spring of 1994 These models had 5" long port tubes Networks used OFC (monster cable looking) clear jacket wiring. Horns in these models were gray in color. Rev.2 – Fall of 1994 These models had shorter 2.5" long port tubes (to raise the box tuning) Networks had a component / value change to correct for the new ports. (The network wire was still the OFC used in Rev.1.) Rev.3 – Summer of 1995 to end of production in 1996 These models had new lighter cone woofers (new vendor) (these cones aren’t nearly as stiff as the originals and can be deformed much easier by pressing on them) Networks were changed to compensate for the new woofers Change in network wiring to colored 16ga. like what is used in Legend KLF networks New horn material that was 20% glass and was painted black. Serial number decoding for EPIC Series models (or any Klipsch model made from 1990-1997(?)) Production Years Description Example 1990-1997(?) DOY Y2Y1 # # # # (135791234) 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woofers and Tweeters Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I don't think that there is a woofer difference. There is a difference in the port length, but that can be changed to longer ports. V1 has a few differences that makes a difference. The ports are longer, yes, and the mids horn are gray, not black. I have read that the gray horn is thicker and makes for a tighter bass and everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opusk2k9 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 New link: https://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/ele/6182713764.html 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
opusk2k9 Posted June 26, 2017 Author Share Posted June 26, 2017 V1 had 5" deep ports, these have 2.5" deep. You could 3D print 5" long ones and I think they would sound close to the V1. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 All I did on my CF-3 v3's was extend the port length to what the v1's were, removed/re-attached the rattling back panels, did some basic interior bracing and altered the crossovers to what the v2's are, I believe, as there is no real information on the v1 crossovers. Unless someone has a pair of CF-3 v1's and cares to reverse engineer them. Mine sound great. They have bested a pair of KLF-30's and '78 Cornwall's in my living room, anyway. Results most likely would be different in a different in a different room, but, maybe not. The Epic series, especially CF-3 and CF-4, just sound damn good. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 11 minutes ago, avguytx said: All I did on my CF-3 v3's was extend the port length to what the v1's were, removed/re-attached the rattling back panels, I think you mean the front panels. The entire front baffle is removable by six screws and has some kind of clay-like caulking around the interior edge. I have also heard owners of the v3 CF-3/4 really have a passion for the speakers, Version 2 or 3 notwithstanding. How can you not like a speaker that weighs over 100 pounds? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 No, I meant the back panels without a doubt. They both were rattling and one was really bad. Both had a shortage of glue in the channels that held them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 8 minutes ago, avguytx said: No, I meant the back panels without a doubt. They both were rattling and one was really bad. Both had a shortage of glue in the channels that held them in. I had never heard of a back panel rattling before, so thanks for the clarification. I've never even heard of anybody removing the back panel, just the front. I'll add that rattling/not enough glue problem and your solution to my body of knowledge about the CF-3 and probably CF-4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 I thought I'd made a thread on it at some point but searching for it is a real pain. Found it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 It sounds like the same issue with the klf cabinets 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted June 26, 2017 Share Posted June 26, 2017 Pretty much. I redid the back panels on the KLF-30's I had before I sold them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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