SWL Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 When your KLF's want to come crumbling down.Audiophile grade clamps from.....you guessed it....Home Depot.[emoji106] Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 I thought the green pads were the audiophile grade, not the orange? Get with the program! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 You're probably right. Green has to sound better than orange.[emoji41] Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 25, 2017 Share Posted June 25, 2017 you are going to place dents in your cabinet veneer. All you need is a strip of plywood placed under the clamps (both sides) and you will not mark the veneer plus your clamps will then distribute their clamping action over a much wider area. regards moray james. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted June 25, 2017 Author Share Posted June 25, 2017 I'm gonna fix the cabs properly. This was temporary.....5 minutes....to find the problem.Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Yes, it would be sad to damage the veneer if they are in good shape Good luck on your re-glue. While you are at it, add some bracing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 I had the same problem with the back panels on my KLF-30's. Took them completely off, sanded the melamine to bare wood, then glued/screwed/nailed them back in place from the inside. Also siliconed all seams and did do some minor interior bracing. Ended up selling them but they were very solid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted June 27, 2017 Author Share Posted June 27, 2017 Before I repaired the 30's in my main system, there was a faint, lower frequency type of vibration/noise. These 30's in the pic are in my basement system. There was a high pitched, nasty crackling-snapping sound when I turned up the volume past 12:00. I never would have thought that sound was because of loose cabinets. Clamping the cabinet seems to have stopped the noise 100%. I'll be rebracing and regluing these. I'm also considering just paying a local carpenter I've known forever to build me new cabinets.....really beefed up and built to last. No more Mickey Mouse stuff. Built right. Braced right. Mahogany finish.....ooooh, I'm getting a little excited. Any advice on making the internal cabinet volume a little bigger? I've got Bob's xovers in my main 30's. Maybe I'll try ALK's in these? Hmmm.... Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted June 28, 2017 Share Posted June 28, 2017 10 hours ago, SWL said: Any advice on making the internal cabinet volume a little bigger? I've got Bob's xovers in my main 30's. Maybe I'll try ALK's in these? Hmmm.... If you are looking at more bass extension, a couple of cubic foot addition would make quite a difference. Remember to tune the cabinet a lower to accommodate the size increase. Possibly front slot loaded would be a very nice change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint.Asher Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 I just received my KLF-30s and C-7. During shipping the mid driver broke off the horn (and took part of the horn with it. Does anyone know of anyone who might have the driver and more importantly the horn for sale? (Bob Crite does not have any horns). Thanks in advance for any help! Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Checking e b a y would be a good option, too. They don't come up that often but will on rare occasion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 3 hours ago, Clint.Asher said: I just received my KLF-30s and C-7. During shipping the mid driver broke off the horn (and took part of the horn with it. Does anyone know of anyone who might have the driver and more importantly the horn for sale? (Bob Crite does not have any horns). Thanks in advance for any help! Clint That is not all that uncommon these horns as are cheaply made and the wall thickness is thin. That's why they respond so well to a damping layer of dynamat to damp the thin wall fro resonating. Now would be a good time to make a serious jump into the future and consider a larger and better mid horn to replace the stock mid horn. There are lots of options some are good enough for you to go two way rather than three way which would be an improvement in m opinion but you would also need a better wide band driver as well going two way. Remember that you can sell your left over part to offset the cost of the new ones. Options of much better horns and drivers are from 18Sound and Fatial Pro. Something for you to consider. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 I would think that if you put the horn throat up to the horn and use a good high quality urethane construction adhesive, you should be able to put several layers on it, including on the connection of the throat to the horn, and it will be better than new. The urethane PL adhesives are very strong. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint.Asher Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 5 hours ago, pzannucci said: I would think that if you put the horn throat up to the horn and use a good high quality urethane construction adhesive, you should be able to put several layers on it, including on the connection of the throat to the horn, and it will be better than new. The urethane PL adhesives are very strong. Thanks Peter. Do you have any specific brand that you recommend? I'm currently planning to use lock-tite 2 part epoxy unless I get a better idea. Clint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clint.Asher Posted July 1, 2017 Share Posted July 1, 2017 19 hours ago, moray james said: That is not all that uncommon these horns as are cheaply made and the wall thickness is thin. That's why they respond so well to a damping layer of dynamat to damp the thin wall fro resonating. Now would be a good time to make a serious jump into the future and consider a larger and better mid horn to replace the stock mid horn. There are lots of options some are good enough for you to go two way rather than three way which would be an improvement in m opinion but you would also need a better wide band driver as well going two way. Remember that you can sell your left over part to offset the cost of the new ones. Options of much better horns and drivers are from 18Sound and Fatial Pro. Something for you to consider. Moray, I like the idea of three way speaker the way Klipsch has these set up and absolutely love the front sound stage created by the KLF-30s and C-7. To that end I've ordered the Crite upgraded Mid Range Drivers and titanium tweet upgrades for all 3 speakers. I'd like to give this set up a little run time and continue to upgrade my minimal knowledge of speaker technology current and past before trying to move on to the next level, whatever that may be. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted July 2, 2017 Share Posted July 2, 2017 19 hours ago, Clint.Asher said: Thanks Peter. Do you have any specific brand that you recommend? I'm currently planning to use lock-tite 2 part epoxy unless I get a better idea. Clint Use the PL indoor/outdoor urethane (Locktite I believe owns it). Put it on thick around the throat of the horn to provide extra damping and support. It is hard to work with cause it sticks to everything and will not be pretty used like that but it's exactly what you want on the horn, some chaos so it won't have a particular ringing frequency. If you do the mid Ti diaphragms, you need to put chokes on the upper frequency to cut them off for the tweeter. Be careful there as many people don't like the Ti over the phenolic and it requires less crossover work than the Ti. If you like it though when installed, that's all that counts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SWL Posted September 10, 2017 Author Share Posted September 10, 2017 Since I picked up a second Crown K2, I've just been punishing these 30's!This morning, full throttle....the highs were just nasty. No bass. So I adjusted my audiophile clamps from HD and WHOA NELLY!!! I got the dreaded 'knocking' and 'whacking' sound. From BOTH speakers.So instead of clamping from the sides I clamped the front and back. Good to go! I proceeded to rock hard and gotta tell ya....when KLF-30'S aren't falling apart before your very eyes, they are amazing.This winter gonna fix em up proper but in the meantime I'm having fun with my clamps.Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pzannucci Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 19 hours ago, SWL said: Since I picked up a second Crown K2, I've just been punishing these 30's! This morning, full throttle....the highs were just nasty. No bass. So I adjusted my audiophile clamps from HD and WHOA NELLY!!! I got the dreaded 'knocking' and 'whacking' sound. From BOTH speakers. Sent from my SM-G920R4 using Tapatalk Audiophile Clamps - Snake Oil!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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