I know nothing about subs...

[DizRotus]

On 8/12/2017 at 11:40 PM, ksquared said:

Hey, that's me too, and I don't even have a setup yet.

 

I somewhat look at the specs, having majored in math, and start to wonder a few things.

 

1) From the research, it seems that it is possible for a smaller 10" sub to output a lower frequency than a 12" sub, however, what also seems to be a guiding factor is the "bigger is better" philosophy, so I'm wondering about that.

2)  Now, I can believe there is a noticeable difference if one sub goes to 30Hz or so compared to another one at 15Hz, but what about 24Hz to 20Hz to 18 Hz?  Are they huge steps, or just slightly better, or maybe hardly better at all?

3)  The "in room extension" specification seems to indicate that everything will work in the real world unless you're in a mansion, although others dismiss this as a gimmick.

4)  The dreaded one spectacular one, vs. two pretty good ones.  Some say it makes a world of difference, usually the ones selling the subwoofers, while others say once again it will help some but in the real world the difference is small, and definitely not by a factor of two.

5)  Is the SVS PC-2000 somewhat of a gimmick with the cylinder design vs. the usual box? 

6)  Is there any loose guideline of the percentage of a system's cost should be spent on the subwoofer?

 

Thanks.

 

 

Welcome.  Your questions are valid.  Most have been addressed in this thread; all have been addressed somewhere in this forum.  Note "addressed" rather than "answered," which implies a uniformity and finality that is not possible.  One size does not fit all.

 

You can sometimes seem to bend the laws of physics, but you can't break them.  Google "Hoffman's Iron Law" (HIL).  To produce true bass at, or below, 32hz, you need to produce wavelengths greater than 35' in length; you must move a lot of air.  Every effort to accomplish this must satisfy HIL.  To some extent, each subwoofer design compromises one or all of the three HIL principles.  Achieving optimal results is complex, expensive and time consuming.  All that said, my simple responses are the following:

 

1. Yes it is possible to get better real bass from a smaller driver under certain circumstances.  Refer to HIL;
2. This is very subjective.  A 32hz tone has a 35' wavelength; a 20hz  tone has a 56.5' wavelength.  Very little music has content below 32hz.  Movies and games have content below 32hz;
3. What "works" is subjective.  "In room extension" is not a gimmick.  It can be your friend or your enemy;
4. Very subjective.  One quality sub well implemented is, IMO, better than two inferior subs.  Two quality subs properly implemented are much better than one.  Three are better than two, etc., but there is a diminishing return factor;
5. See HIL; and
6.  Not to my knowledge.  There are too many situation dependent variables.

A somewhat useful, IMO, analogy to bass in a space is to imagine a large shallow pan of water.  Try to carry it across a room without generating waves that slosh over the sides of the pan; it's damn near impossible.  Now put dividers ( think ice cube tray) in the pan to break up the long waves into shorter waves.  The water does not all slosh over the sides.

 

One sub in an empty space is like the tray without dividers.  Two subs generate waves that can cancel each other or reinforce each other depending on the size of the space, the existence of furniture (dividers), etc.  In summary, start with one quality sub that is placed and powered taking into consideration the size and configuration of your space.